V2 Justin Reed Racing Hillclimb Special V2 (#2)

[Justinreed7]

Hello everyone, I’m eager to get started on V2 and see how improved it is in real world testing over V1. For those that don’t know, I currently run my V1 specifically setup for hillclimbs with lots of aero and a full effort race build. (555whp/1541lbs race ready full of fuel)
The plan for V2 is similar but to make it a more all purpose car. V1 can’t run more than 5 minutes at race pace before iats go nuclear and engine temp starts blinking, as designed for max weight savings and given the average Hillclimb run is under 2 minutes. V2 will get a slightly different approach with plans to not only run Hillclimb, but to also be able to run time attack and long track sessions with no worries of over heating problems. I’m making an effort to be more thorough with this build log compared to my v1 log and record build progress as well as head to head testing against V1. When V2 is complete, I plan to test them head to head at an open track day for direct comparisons. Excited for what’s ahead!

 

[Robinjo]

Now this is a V2 that I want to see progress on! Subscribed.....

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Got to see the chassis being welded up in December. Adam was pretty proud of how it was coming together. I like the extra frame triangulation being added, will definitely be a more rigid platform to build onto...kinda like what I have in my garage. Can't wait to see how this build comes together. BTW, what's the scoop on the engine and transmission? Anything new there?

 

[Justinreed7]

Got to see the chassis being welded up in December. Adam was pretty proud of how it was coming together. I like the extra frame triangulation being added, will definitely be a more rigid platform to build onto...kinda like what I have in my garage. Can't wait to see how this build comes together. BTW, what's the scoop on the engine and transmission? Anything new there?

Currently in the middle of an engine build and DSG diff install. Engine block and head is at the machine shop and the special tools required for the diff install just arrived yesterday.

 

[Justinreed7]

Donor is a 2015 GTI with 73,873 miles. Copart pulled a fast one and sold it as Run and Drive. I had the car delivered just to realize it indeed was not Run and Drive. Intake and throttle body was busted along with alternator pushed into the oil filter accessory bracket and water pump busted. Winning bid was $2,250, after fees it was $2,883 and after delivery fee it ended up at $3100. Replacement of Alternator, throttle, water pump and oil filter housing cost a total of $556.90. Lots of unknown plastic coolant pieces broken as well but I’ll address that as the build progresses

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Ouch, that's unexpected. Unfortunately there is really no recourse for bad description for Copart. I know, tried that with my Cobalt donor that was supposedly driveable too. But sounds like you are making good progress. Be sure to post when you get your frame!

 

[MeltedSolid]

Awesome! I think your build goals are pretty similar to mine, I plan to mainly do time attack, although overall a bit more modest. I'm excited to see what you cook up, that thing's going to be a monster with a built EA888! Have you decided what turbo you're going to be using?

 

[Justinreed7]

Awesome! I think your build goals are pretty similar to mine, I plan to mainly do time attack, although overall a bit more modest. I'm excited to see what you cook up, that thing's going to be a monster with a built EA888! Have you decided what turbo you're going to be using?

I went with the new Precision stage 2 turbo, supposedly good for 650whp with good spool up

 

[Blizzard25]

Excited to see this, would love to get a race in with you sometime when mine gets built.

For hillclimb you may want to look into another turbo, although depends how you drive. The PT turbos really go heavy towards the top of the RPM range but have a lot of lag from the few dyno charts I've seen below 4500-5000. They kind of strike me as more of a drag turbo. Of course with it being so new, who knows. You could try playing around with the turbine side, lightening up that side should give you some slightly better lower end response

 

[Justinreed7]

Excited to see this, would love to get a race in with you sometime when mine gets built.

For hillclimb you may want to look into another turbo, although depends how you drive. The PT turbos really go heavy towards the top of the RPM range but have a lot of lag from the few dyno charts I've seen below 4500-5000. They kind of strike me as more of a drag turbo. Of course with it being so new, who knows. You could try playing around with the turbine side, lightening up that side should give you some slightly better lower end response

We’ll see how it goes, the DSG will help me out with keeping the revs up with ease of staying in optimum gear

 

[aaronc7]

Low psi, but here's some data/logs

Datazap

The fastest, easiest way to visualize, analyze, and share your automotive datalogs: for everyone from weekend hobbyists to pro tuners.

datazap.me

 

[Justinreed7]

Low psi, but here's some data/logs

Datazap

The fastest, easiest way to visualize, analyze, and share your automotive datalogs: for everyone from weekend hobbyists to pro tuners.

datazap.me

Is that the precision stage 2 turbo?

 

[aaronc7]

Is that the precision stage 2 turbo?

Yeah, guy has ported head and aftermarket intake manifold as well.

 

[Justinreed7]

Yeah, guy has ported head and aftermarket intake manifold as well.

Oh yeah that’ll be great then. The xona 4951 I currently run on v1 lights up around 3500-3800 rpm and works great even with the limiting h pattern 5 speed

 

[Blizzard25]

Yeah, guy has ported head and aftermarket intake manifold as well.

Ported heads really a big benefit for that turbo. Kick that thing up to optimal boost levels and no ported heads, i think 4.5k was the right number for full spool

 

[aaronc7]

Currently in the middle of an engine build and DSG diff install. Engine block and head is at the machine shop and the special tools required for the diff install just arrived yesterday.

Would love to read any writeup or insights for the DSG diff install. I've had a wavetrac sitting in a box for some time now waiting to go in, after not being able to find a shop that was comfortable with it locally.

Are you sticking with GTI gear ratios or going to the tighter R or TTS ratios?

 

[Justinreed7]

Would love to read any writeup or insights for the DSG diff install. I've had a wavetrac sitting in a box for some time now waiting to go in, after not being able to find a shop that was comfortable with it locally.

Are you sticking with GTI gear ratios or going to the tighter R or TTS ratios?

Stock GTI gears, I can install it if you’re somewhat close to me

 

[aaronc7]

Stock GTI gears, I can install it if you’re somewhat close to me

Nah, NW Florida. Not many hill climbs here either .

 

[Justinreed7]

Wavetrac diff install went about as expected, not the most fun thing you can do. lol
You need a couple special tools and parts: circlip pliers, blind hole bearing puller, bearing race installer, dial gauge, caliper, O2E wavetrac diff, O2E bearing kit, O2E shim kit.
There’s some decent videos on YouTube on how to do it so I’m not going to go in extreme detail. Just kinda go over the key points. Splitting the case is probably the easiest part, after it’s open the fun begins with removing the ring gear from the stock diff.

VW uses rivets to hold the gear on so you have to drill out all the rivets to remove the ring.

The wavetrac diff has been in the freezer for about a day to make the bearing install easier. I removed it and heated the bearings slightly and they both slipped right on easily. Next I installed the ring to the new diff with 243 loctite at 85ftlbs.

Placed the diff back in the case and test fit the bearing preload. I noticed the case had a small gap around the case and wasn’t sitting all the way down on the mating surface. This means I have way too much preload and installing it like this would burn the bearings up. I split it back apart and removed the bearing race from the case and removed the stock shim. Stock shim measured 1.24mm. Installed the race back with no shim and then put diff and case back together. This time the diff has play. You need to measure this play with a dial gauge. Mine had .022” of play which equates to .56mm.

You need .25-.45mm preload so that means .56mm play + .25mm preload = .81mm optimum shim size needed. The shims I received could only get it as close as .89mm, which is within the preload tolerance. That would give me a .33mm preload. So I removed the case and diff again and removed the bearing race. Installed my .89mm shim and reinstalled the race.

Placed diff back in applied sealant on case and installed case and clutches.

 

[Blizzard25]

Nah, NW Florida. Not many hill climbs here either .

What do you mean, you've got all those sand dunes