V1 Tony's City Goblin - 2010 SS/TC

[Tony]

The other thing I'm still struggling a bit with is the fuse box mounting. It is just not feasible to fit it where it was originally mounted, due to the cluster of coolant hoses that occupy the space were the ECM would need to be. I have considered just raising it straight up from that position with a spacer at the bottom as others have done, but it would have to go higher than the rear mount would allow - the front really needs to swing out to clear the hoses. I know some people have modified the mount so that the ECM lies flat, which I suppose is an option. The other option I'm leaning toward is making an offset bracket that will mount with 2 bolts to the trans mount plate where the box used to be, then zigzag up and out to where the box will mount to it. Has anyone else found creative solutions to this issue and want to share pics?

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

Yeah, I dont have an issue with the fuse box but my coolant is now pretty tight with a kink near the inlet, i ordered a hose from amazon to see if I can get it to fit a little better.

 

[Briann1177]

Not sure if you saw this yet--it sounds like you have, but I went this route and have plenty of room for coolant hose routing. I did have to use a 90 on the reservoir tank outlet to get that particular hose more out of the way.

Fuse Box Mount

How do you mount the fuse box with the new style transmission mount? The mounting plate is more towards the center of the car than it used to be so the the fuse box bolt hole isn't even close.

dfkitcar.com

 

[Tony]

I did see that thread at one point I think. I was hoping to maintain some stiffness without adding a third point as dperkins did. The 2-hole spacer seems like it would be unstable, which is why I was hoping to get two holes on the trans mount plate.

 

[Lethalcast]

I found a hose with few bends that got it close and then used a uncoil to make the final 90 into the T. The hose number was 88429

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

I found a hose with few bends that got it close and then used a uncoil to make the final 90 into the T. The hose number was 88429

Thanks!!! Ordered

 

[Lethalcast]

Thanks!!! Ordered

Yw, it was still a little work bending the unicoil and getting the length right but it looks clean when it's done. I taped hose mesh on where it can touch the ecm mount.

 

[Tony]

Pretty exciting evening yesterday. I finished up the last few little things on the wiring harness - added the last connectors for fan and BCM power and extended the ground that wasn't reaching. Plugged everything in and it fired right up, after I remembered to reconnect the intake tube. I had it off to try and tweak the routing so it wouldn't rub the spring. This is what I came up with.

The tube does barely touch the engine mount plate where it connects to the frame, so I'll have to rig a mount or isolator to keep that from rattling, but it seems to work well.

I also mounted the BCM kickplate, and got the IC pump and fan installed and finished plumbing the coolant lines for that. Went with a pretty similar setup for filling as I've seen a few others do. I have a plug for it, just not installed as I haven't filled the system yet. And if you noticed my hose clamps, I decided to go with the pinch type because they're so much cheaper and low-profile than screw type, and more available than the OEM style spring clamps. A pack of 20 is less than $3 at Menards. At that price, the better aesthetics and fit are worth having to cut and replace a clamp if I need to service a hose, in my opinion.

May not seem like much, but having those few things "done" feels like a big step. I'm hoping to spend some time this evening installing brake lines and shifter, after which I'll just need seats to be ready for a test drive!

 

[Tony]

Okay, so I didn't get all the brakes and shifter done, shockingly enough. I had to tackle an issue that I had noticed, but not really paid attention to in the past. The front left brake seemed almost frozen, but when disassembled, it moved freely. I couldn't figure out why it was so hard to turn the wheel when it was assembled. It turned out that the hub was not fully seated to the knuckle, which was pushing the rotor hard into the outer pad at its max travel. I feel like I probably torqued it to spec, but the stud not being new and clean kept it from seating completely and I just didn't notice. Oh well, all solved now.

I moved on to brake lines. Rears were easy, as the kit came with new flex lines that fit perfectly. However, it seems that while I kept the intermediate flex lines for the front, I don't have the outer lines that are supposed to connect to the caliper (from the rear of the donor). Apart from that, the intermediate lines are gross. With those two factors, I figure it's just easier to go ahead and order the stainless flex lines from DF. That's also 2 less potential leak points on each side.

Moving on to the shifter. I pulled the tunnel cover out of storage and unwrapped it - first time since it came back from powder almost 2 (?!) years ago. I do still plan to cut it in half and thread the tunnel so I can bolt it in instead of riveting. After laying the cover in, I tried getting the cables put in place. I guess I was a little too hesitant to bend them hard - after some searching, I see that they need to be routed under the rear trans mount, but I had them behind it and the tie rod mount, which left them considerably short of the bracket on the tunnel cover. I'll have to go back and try again. I did get the shifter itself trimmed and ready to install, so I guess there was some progress.

On a more annoying note, it seems my gauge cluster isn't working quite right. The speedo needle is pointing straight down (well past the zero mark) and not moving at all, and the tach seems sluggish and inaccurate, so I might have to pull it apart and see if I can find any obvious issues.

Other than that, getting really close and excited. Sorry for the novel with no pics for today.

 

[Tony]

Well, ran into a bit of a hiccup with the inspection and VIN application. Got the inspection, gathered all my paperwork, and headed to the BMV. As it turned out, I had exactly what I needed, but on the inspection form, I had written 2017 in the year box, since that was when I bought the kit. Unfortunately, I purchased stage 3 in 2018, so that's what was listed on the MCO. Since they didn't match, and I can't hand-correct, I need to get an officer to re-sign, or reinspect (hopefully the former). I'm out of town this weekend, so it will be Monday or Tuesday at the earliest before I can send off the forms to Indy. Unless I get an uncharacteristically fast turnaround, it's looking unlikely that I'll be able to make the meet.

A couple progress updates though - I got my fuse box mounted to my satisfaction. Oddly enough, I found a piece of aluminum scrap in my driveway that was the perfect size to make a bracket. I figured it would be too flimsy long-term, and planned on remaking it if it worked, but with the rear mount bolted up tight, it's actually plenty rigid.

I also got the shifter cables routed correctly, and got the front-back cable hooked up. Unfortunately, being my kit is a rather early iteration, it still has the ball joint/heim joint for connecting to the shifter (instead of reusing the stock pieces). The ball joint was fine, but the heim ID is slightly too small to fit over the side-side shaft (.236" ID vs .240" shaft), plus I don't have an e-clip to secure it. I'll probably order one of the stock pieces.

I did finally order the new parking brake kit, stainless front hoses, and button panels, so those should be the last items I need.

 

[Tony]

Got a nice surprise in the mail yesterday when I found a letter from the BMV. I did, in fact, get an uncharacteristically fast turnaround, and I have a VIN! I need to get a tag made so I can rivet it on, but that was, I believe, the most time-consuming part of the process done. Still waiting on the parts I ordered from DF to ship so I can have brakes, but that is certainly an exciting step.

 

[Tony]

Definitely seeing the light at the end of the tunnel now! Got a big box in yesterday from DF, with parking brakes and front brake hoses, along with button panels. Immediately went to work stripping and painting the calipers. I'll be swinging by the yard today to get the parking brake tubes and handle, then by a trophy shop to get a VIN plate made.

 

[Tony]

New rear brake calipers are in. It seems like the Cobalt hoses are a little short, so I'll probably pick up a set of solstice hoses. The ends are the same size, fitting wise, but it's a bit longer and the banjo end is smaller, so it won't interfere.

Also struggled with one of the parking brake cables - the two metal lugs on the end were too close together to slide into the crank, so I had to pry it apart then clamp back down. Fairly certain that is the issue because the other side was fine. The plastic tabs on the collar had to be trimmed to actually clip into the bracket as well, but everything seems functional now. Just need to figure out the cable routing/mounting.

Started to wire in the button panels, but wasn't sure about how the wire colors match up. I think I've gotten the black and white on the right isolated as the hazard switch, since I still have the stock one in.

 

[Lonny]

The ones your holding.
Black - ground
White - hazard
Orange - fog lamp (ACC)
Gray - cruise
Pink - positive with key on
Black - ground
Tan - horn
Green - info

On the plug the gray at pin D is cruise.
The white and orange wires were switched that were on your dash.

 

[Tony]

The ones you're holding.
Black - ground
White - hazard
Orange - fog lamp (ACC)
Gray - cruise
Pink - positive with key on
Black - ground
Tan - horn
Green - info

On the plug the gray at pin D is cruise.
The white and orange wires were switched that were on your dash.

Thanks for the quick reply, but I'm still confused. How does the fog lamp relate to the button panel? From looking at the diagram for the existing connector in the background and your info here, pin 1 (GN/WH) goes to the green wire, pin 4 (PK) goes to the pink wire, pin 5 (GY) goes to the gray wire, and pin 7 (BK/WH) goes to the black wire toward the left on my pic. The black and white on the right will go 1:1 to the stock hazard switch connector. The tan will need to go to the horn relay, but I need to locate that wire - I can't remember what I did with it. That leaves the orange... should I connect it to pin 3 (GY) which was originally for switch illumination?

 

[Lonny]

If you're donor had fog lamps they would have been turned on and off with a momentary switch that was located on your donor dash. It was an orange wire.
That orange wire activated a relay located in the fuse box. When the fog lamps are on it puts power to the purple wires that came out of the white square plug also located in the fuse box. These purple wires use to go the fog lamps.
If you don't want to use this setup your button panel kit should have come with an extra toggle switch that you can put in the accessory position and use it to switch something on and off.

 

[Lonny]

The white wire goes to the white hazard wire from your wiring harness. The two black wires from the button panel get hooked together and go to the black and white ground.

 

[Tony]

If you're donor had fog lamps they would have been turned on and off with a momentary switch that was located on your donor dash. It was an orange wire.
That orange wire activated a relay located in the fuse box. When the fog lamps are on it puts power to the purple wires that came out of the white square plug also located in the fuse box. These purple wires use to go the fog lamps.
If you don't want to use this setup your button panel kit should have come with an extra toggle switch that you can put in the accessory position and use it to switch something on and off.

Oh I see, just using the ACC switch on the panel to control the fog lamp circuit. I've already eliminated the fog circuits, so I'll have to use it some other way. So the ACC switch connects the orange wire to ground when on?

 

[Briann1177]

The fog lamp switch connects the orange wire to ground when pressed. The power to the fog lamp switch, I believe, comes from ACC voltage. I couldn't seem to find that schematic.

 

[Tony]