Power steering on dash no start

[Robf]

Looking for more people's thoughts in this topic. I have been in touch with Lonny a bit already in regards to this and we have tried to narrow down the wiring issue. When you turn the key to the accessory position it makes a clicking noise in the pwr/trn relay which will continue until you turn the ignition off or out into run.

In "run" the dash will light up then show low fuel and power steering. The fuel pump (which is new) doesn't kick on.

I push the clutch in, turn key to ignition and the clicking stops with no crank.

I'm goblin 453
My donor is a 2007 cobalt ls L61 2.2l f23 manual
Harness done by DF

I have check continuity on every fuse

I have pulled every fuse and visually inspected them.

Cleaned grounds and double checked all connections are proper and in the right spot

Checked continuity on the data wires between the ecm and the obd2 tan and tan/black

Removed the fuse box, disassembled, and checked to make sure there were no burnt out terminals.

Checked power at bcm ecm and battery all at 12.2volts

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

[Goblinfanclub1234]

try disconnecting the harness from the fuel pump and seeing if the clicking continues in the accessory position? rule out a short inside of the new fuel pump

 

[Ross]

Looking for more people's thoughts in this topic.
...
In "run" the dash will light up then show low fuel and power steering. The fuel pump (which is new) doesn't kick on.
... Anyone have any suggestions?

I had the Power Steering message... data wasn't flowing on the GMLAN (tan and brown wires)
Replacing the power steering module fixed it for me. Also allowed the guages to start getting data.

 

[Robf]

I had the Power Steering message... data wasn't flowing on the GMLAN (tan and brown wires)
Replacing the power steering module fixed it for me. Also allowed the guages to start getting data.

Did your car still start with the power steering msg on your dash? Mine does nothing. No fuel pump kick on, no crank

 

[Robf]

try disconnecting the harness from the fuel pump and seeing if the clicking continues in the accessory position? rule out a short inside of the new fuel pump

I'll give that a shot

 

[Robf]

Photo dump of every connection.
The fuse box appeared to have got some brake fluid on it so it was tore down and inspected as well.

 

[Robf]

More pictures of the connections and fuse box

 

[Robinjo]

In your third photo of the grounds under the fuse box, shouldn't there be a third ground wire coming to that location? Mine had three, but it's an SC model.

In the next to last -photo of the first set, of the fuse box, is it still really oily from the brake fluid? If so, I'd clean that up a lot more. Saw more in the second set, that fuse box needs a better cleaning.

Are you sure the clutch switch is reading/working properly?

In 120017 and 120025. Is the black wire with red end going from the B+ terminal (the 10mm post on/in the fuse box) of the fuse box to the grounding spot in 120025? That B+ terminal should connect to the power stud of the starter. Wire runs from battery to the post of the starter. Then a wire runs from that post to the B+ terminal of the fuse box. Is the small purple wire also attached to the little 7 or 8mm post of the starter?

 

[Robf]

I have three attached. 2 of which were in the bundle that df did the top one runs to ground at the transmission housing

 

[Robinjo]

I have three attached. 2 of which were in the bundle that df did the top one runs to ground at the transmission housing

Ah, ok, they wrapped two of them together.

 

[Gtstorey]

60% of the time it's a bad or missing ground.
20% its's a data wire problem.
10% it's a loose connection on the fuse box.
5% is a burnt trace in the fuse box, usually by mis-jumping the fuel pump relay to prime or empty the fuel tank
5% misc.

Start with adding your donor in your signature.
page 2-3 can help check the data wire SECTION ‘X’ CONTENTS (aeswave.com).

Beyond that it's going to take some basic electrical trouble shooting to trace it down.

 

[Gtstorey]

Might need to change my percentages a little. 12.2 volts on a battery is getting weak if it's fully charged. A good battery will show 12.6 volts fully charged.

 

[Robf]

Might need to change my percentages a little. 12.2 volts on a battery is getting weak if it's fully charged. A good battery will show 12.6 volts fully charged.

I charged over night and it's at 12.6 volts same problem.
Also I have continuity with the data wires from the obd to the fuse box.

Whats the signature thing you're referring to in the second half of your previous comment?

 

[Robinjo]

Might need to change my percentages a little. 12.2 volts on a battery is getting weak if it's fully charged. A good battery will show 12.6 volts fully charged.

Mine won't even try to turn over if the battery starts to get low. It's not like a normal car where it'll click at you. It just does nothing.

 

[Robinjo]

I charged over night and it's at 12.6 volts same problem.
Also I have continuity with the data wires from the obd to the fuse box.

Whats the signature thing you're referring to in the second half of your previous comment?

He's saying to add your vehicle information into your signature by following the link he provided. It helps people know what model Cobalt you started with so they can help you better. Each variant of Cobalt has it's own special set of things to check.
For example: my information in my signature:

 

[Gtstorey]

Actually you need look in Ross's signature for the link to mod your signature.

Continuity isn't enough to ensure the data is working correctly. Need to confirm the resistance as shown in the link. Although that won't usually cause a no-crank, at least on the later models.
Really need more info. Was your donor running when disassembled? Security light illuminating at key on and then turning off? If yes to both, this is likely going to be a loose connection somewhere. These connections are not really designed to be disassembled and reassembled like we do. Mine went through a period of no-crank, where I could kick the "kick plate" over the BCM. I eventually added a strap over one of the BCM connections to hold it in place. But it's hard to predict which connection will be you problem. This is where you are going to have to either (A)randomly try stuff such as wiggling wires and checking random points or (B) get the wiring diagrams for your model and start at one end and trace until you find the issue.

 

[Robf]

UPDATE
I GOT IT STARTED!!!
The red plug that used to go to the radiator fan on the donor had two grounds poking out of the loom leading up to the red connector. It appears as if those lines had been sheered off somehow. I put a new terminal on the ground wires connected it to the grond on the transmission housing and boom she started. Ran briefly, but I assume since I don't have the maf tube and sensor installed, it won't run for long.

But she's alive!!

 

[Gtstorey]

Now 61% bad or missing ground.

 

[Gtstorey]

Have you checked the resistance on your chassis grounds?

The corrosion on your negative battery cable and the amount of powder coating still visible around your forward chassis ground makes me think you should at least check. Although it probably isn't the problem, it would be at the top of my list of things to try because it's so quick/easy to check and ground issues are usually the culprit in these types of issues.

Depending on what wires he actually grounded to get it to crank, he may be band aiding a larger ground issue. I don't really remember the wires he grounded.

 

[Robf]

Depending on what wires he actually grounded to get it to crank, he may be band aiding a larger ground issue. I don't really remember the wires he grounded.

This was the ground that was sheered off. It was coming from the loom with the red plug.