V1 Carl's Track Goblin - 05 SS SC donor, Chassis # 39

[Waterdriver]

I am thinking of using one, possibly two shifter kart radiators. They're sensitive to coolant temps, needing to keep coolant around 120 degrees to prevent power loss and sticking a piston.

Looking to order this: http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eB...2&pm=1&ds=0&t=1518057886000&ver=0&cspheader=1

Comes with 2 fans for $155.

 

[ctuinstra]

The pictures make the fans look bigger than the radiator. I don't suppose they provide any cooling specs on it. I myself would like to have a better idea of what type of cooling performance it required but I'm sure that all depends on many variables, ambient temp is a big one.

Really a guys has to keep an eye on the IATs to know whether or not they have enough cooling or not.

 

[Waterdriver]

Engine in, kind of.

What is the size of the spacers for the driver's side? I have the welded in motor mount top plates.
Also, which bolts are being reused? Seat bolts are not long enough.

 

[ctuinstra]

Engine in, kind of.
What is the size of the spacers for the driver's side? I have the welded in motor mount top plates.
Also, which bolts are being reused? Seat bolts are not long enough.

They are about 1/2" thick. You should have two of them.

I think I ended up buying new bolts so I can't remember which ones where reused there. Make sure you grind away the powder coat on the underneath side to get a good ground to the block.

 

[Waterdriver]

They are about 1/2" thick. You should have two of them.

I think I ended up buying new bolts so I can't remember which ones where reused there. Make sure you grind away the powder coat on the underneath side to get a good ground to the block.

Ok, I found those two spaces. Aluminum, correct?
I think you had posted in your build a list of bolts you used and review that for sizes.
And thank you for reminding about the powdercoating removal for grounding. That should help avoid chasing any additional electrical issues.

 

[Briann1177]

Yes, those spacers are aluminum. I ground off my powdercoating too, and I just decided to ditch the engine ground cable completely.

 

[Waterdriver]

Powdercoating ground off under the upper motor mount pickup points.
Upper mounting bolts in and torqued. For the drivers side upper mount, reused one seat belt and two of the original motor mount bolts.
Started on mounting the fuse box and stopped to create a bracket for the lower pickup point since it won't line up to the upper mount plate.

 

[Waterdriver]

How are other SC builders connecting the passenger side coolant line at the engine?
I have another piece of hose with a 45 degree bend that'll connect the two, but only the one splice connector left.

Am I missing something?

 

[Lonny]

We have a hose that will work on the passenger side that hooks to the hose coming out of the lower frame rail and goes all the way to the cylinder head. The part number is 72049 at AutoZone.
if you want to pick one up we will reimburse you the cost. It's the same hose we supply for the transmission side that gets cut.

 

[Waterdriver]

We have a hose that will work on the passenger side that hooks to the hose coming out of the lower frame rail and goes all the way to the cylinder head. The part number is 72049 at AutoZone.
if you want to pick one up we will reimburse you the cost. It's the same hose we supply for the transmission side that gets cut.

Ok, I'll swing by Autozone and pick up that hose. Thanks Lonny!

 

[Waterdriver]

I tried looking up that part number but nothing came up. Is that a Dayco hose?

 

[dperkins]

It is a dayco hose. Its on amazon for 18.84.

 

[KJP]

Normally part store dayco hoses start with a letter depending on size try E72049

 

[Waterdriver]

Thank you, that "E" seems to make a difference.
Looks to be a '04 Ford Escape upper coolant hose.
I hate to pay double the price from Autozone but I'm so close. Just wanting to try and start her up. And I guess see how my wiring job went.

 

[ctuinstra]

Thank you, that "E" seems to make a difference.
Looks to be a '04 Ford Escape upper coolant hose.
I hate to pay double the price from Autozone but I'm so close. Just wanting to try and start her up. And I guess see how my wiring job went.

One good tip I heard on here was to fill the system with plain water first. That way if there is a leak and darn good chances of it, it's a much easier mess to clean up. Maybe just a touch of coolant for lube.

I started with water on my intercooler setup and sure enough there was a leak. Just plain water leaked out. The dogs could lick that up.

 

[Waterdriver]

Well, she started and sputtered. Checked the MAF and sure enough I had it backwards.
Flipped it around and idles nice and smoorh.
Problem is the gauges aren't working. When you turn the key on the check engine light in the security light comes on then when you start the car the gauges don't respond.
When the key is out the gages the speedometer and tachometer and fuel guage will jump.

 

[Waterdriver]

Well, she started and sputtered. Checked the MAF and sure enough I had it backwards.
Flipped it around and idles nice and smoorh.
Problem is the gauges aren't working. When you turn the key on the check engine light in the security light comes on then when you start the car the gauges don't respond.
When the key is out the gages the speedometer and tachometer and fuel guage will jump.

And...when I plug my bluetooth adapter into the OBD2 port, the gauges work.

 

[Briann1177]

I believe most of the gauge cluster information comes from low speed data green wire. Might be a starting point to check.

 

[Waterdriver]

Thing is, when the Bluetooth adapter is plugged into OBD2 port, the gauges work as they should.
Would it be a power issue at the OBD2 port?
I'll have to check, but I believe there are two wires that are suppose to provide power. I might have cut one of those and need to correct it. Just a guess at this point.

 

[Briann1177]

I pulled up the OBD2 port connector for an '05, and it looks like there is only one positive wire. There are two grounds however.

It also looks like the LSJs have two dark green wires right next to each other in the OBD2 connector. One is for low speed GMLAN and the other is "PCM Class 2 Serial Data (LSJ)". Not sure what the latter is. I wonder if something got mixed up when you removed the splice pack?

I believe the only thing in common between your OBD2 port and the gauge cluster is that green wire on pin 1.

I can't explain why your gauges work when you have your scan tool plugged in. That's very odd.