How do you properly torque down bolts that have a "lubricant" applied? And yes, I understand anti-seize is not designed to be a lubricant, but it does have properties that reduce friction which could cause the bolt to be over torqued.I like to use anti-seize on all bolts, especially when they are in dissimilar metals like steel and aluminum. Exhaust bolts are exposed to high heat and tend to seize and gall more often.
In the transportation industry we had several torque values in suspension components for lubricated as well as non-lubricated. The lubricated values are higher and are actually more precise.How do you properly torque down bolts that have a "lubricant" applied? And yes, I understand anti-seize is not designed to be a lubricant, but it does have properties that reduce friction which could cause the bolt to be over torqued.
All true except I will argue some points on the if GM used it part. They put a yellow thread locker on brake caliper bolts. My first move is to the wire wheel to take that stuff off. put a dab of anti seize on and put it all back together. Never had a caliper bolt come loose.Proper torque will keep most bolts in.
Connecting rods are probably the most stressed bolts in an engine and they don't use thread locker.
A good rule of thumb is if GM used a thread locker you should. You usually can look at a bolt and see the remnants of a thread locking substance if it was used.
Over my years. I have read a lot specs that have said lubricate threads, install and torque.How do you properly torque down bolts that have a "lubricant" applied? And yes, I understand anti-seize is not designed to be a lubricant, but it does have properties that reduce friction which could cause the bolt to be over torqued.
I think the reason car manufacturers place thread locker on certain bolts is not always that they may vibrate loose, it's there as a safety measure.All true except I will argue some points on the if GM used it part. They put a yellow thread locker on brake caliper bolts. My first move is to the wire wheel to take that stuff off. put a dab of anti seize on and put it all back together. Never had a caliper bolt come loose.
Yup, snapped mine right off because I didn't know this.They even put some type of blue thread locker on the little screw that attaches the brake light switch on the pedal box that causes everyone to brake the screw off.
Note: You can remove the brake switch screw by holding a lighter or soldering iron against the threads until it softens the thread locker.
After I snapped the head off I did the same thing but had to use vise gripsI broke mine but was able to unscrew it the opposite way by taking bolt through the switch like I was tightening it