Rauq's Twincharged LSJ in SC - #240 - GOBZILA

[Rauq]

Did you measure the airgap between the slave and the clutch fingers? I didn't the first time and I think the slave was over extending so I measured it and found i needed a .25" spacer to get the proper air gap for my aftermarket clutch.

I didn't. I hadn't come across the topic of the spacer until after I'd already installed the drivetrain. I'm willing to check this out if I can't figure it out soon.

Sounds the same as what I did. No additional shims were necessary with these parts. All working well after nearing 5k driven.
Just another data point.

Jason in Texas - ext. track - 09 SS/TC

I did a pretty good job bagging and labeling my hardware. The labels are mostly like "dash", or "seatbelts". The actual technical names by their size is still a little foreign to me. I found a good Layover Chart". Kind of like Bolts for Dummies...... Scroll to the bottom for the metric...

dfkitcar.com

Just to make sure I understand, you did or did not install a spacer?

 

[JBINTX]

I didn't. I hadn't come across the topic of the spacer until after I'd already installed the drivetrain. I'm willing to check this out if I can't figure it out soon.


Just to make sure I understand, you did or did not install a spacer?

No spacer. Direct replacement of oem parts.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

No spacer. Direct replacement of oem parts.

No guess work with the OEM parts.

 

[Rauq]

No guess work with the OEM parts.

What are you talking about? We both have aftermarket clutches. I know ZZP has sold clutches in the past that require spacers, so the topic naturally comes with making more than OEM power which requires more than OEM clutches. Towerdog's clutch setup ended up with more airgap than an OEM slave cylinder can take up... although I think they have other issues going on as well.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

What are you talking about? We both have aftermarket clutches. I know ZZP has sold clutches in the past that require spacers, so the topic naturally comes with making more than OEM power which requires more than OEM clutches. Towerdog's clutch setup ended up with more airgap than an OEM slave cylinder can take up... although I think they have other issues going on as well.

Don't take that the wrong way. There are lots of very good aftermarket parts available that emulate 'stock' fit with an improvement in torque ability. My comment is exactly what it says, there is no guessing with OEM parts. It was not meant as a jab at anyone or their parts choices.

 

[Rauq]

I drove my Goblin to work today for about the 4th time in the past two weeks. We've had 4 days without rain in the forecast for the past two weeks as well, which isn't a coincidence.

I'm pretty sure my intercooler pump isn't working. There's no heat in the heat exchanger and when I toggle the pump in HP Tuners with the key on engine off I just get a click. I'll hit the connector with a multimeter tonight to confirm but from my understanding this is pretty common for these pumps. It's a little curious that it worked when I filled the system during the build, but whatever.

I don't have cruise control and I'm not sure why. I haven't put a multimeter to any of the dash panel switches or anything like that yet. I thought maybe my CELs were preventing cruise from activating but I flashed a tune last night just canceling the active CELs (evap, 2nd O2 sensor, etc) and drove to work without a CEL, but still no cruise control. I do have a resistor on the third brake light circuit, wired as below. The third brake light and license plate lights are wired as the harness came from DF, so I do believe this is the third brake light wire and not just tapped off of the regular brake light as I would've been tempted to do if I had done my own harness. The third brake light and license plate light work as I understand they should.

There's a few other items that will get some attention, but they're lower on my priority list at the moment. One general topic is the shifter and clutch... I might fiddle with cable adjustments but at this point I'm pretty set on picking up DF's new upgraded shifter when it comes out so it won't get much attention for now. I'm still not convinced my clutch is fully disengaging so it might get another bleed and status check here soon. I want to do some baseline tuning as well but there's not much of a point there until the intercooler pump gets fixed.

 

[Ark :D]

I don't have cruise either, even though I have the resistor wired in. I haven't had much time lately, with a ton of work and home projects commanding my attention, but I'll get around to looking at it one of these days.

 

[Rauq]

I guess I owe some pictures as well.

Not to add to my list but I also want to paint the muffler (probably just black), and I also have a mesh insert for a front grille that I'll eventually get around to putting in the hood.

 

[OptimizePrime]

Looks great! love the tag

You're in good company without cruise.... I tried and gave up. Haven't really missed it though tbh, these gobos are more active participation on the highway than I expected.

 

[baustin]

I drove my Goblin to work today for about the 4th time in the past two weeks. We've had 4 days without rain in the forecast for the past two weeks as well, which isn't a coincidence.

I'm pretty sure my intercooler pump isn't working. There's no heat in the heat exchanger and when I toggle the pump in HP Tuners with the key on engine off I just get a click. I'll hit the connector with a multimeter tonight to confirm but from my understanding this is pretty common for these pumps. It's a little curious that it worked when I filled the system during the build, but whatever.

I don't have cruise control and I'm not sure why. I haven't put a multimeter to any of the dash panel switches or anything like that yet. I thought maybe my CELs were preventing cruise from activating but I flashed a tune last night just canceling the active CELs (evap, 2nd O2 sensor, etc) and drove to work without a CEL, but still no cruise control. I do have a resistor on the third brake light circuit, wired as below. The third brake light and license plate lights are wired as the harness came from DF, so I do believe this is the third brake light wire and not just tapped off of the regular brake light as I would've been tempted to do if I had done my own harness. The third brake light and license plate light work as I understand they should.

View attachment 25785

There's a few other items that will get some attention, but they're lower on my priority list at the moment. One general topic is the shifter and clutch... I might fiddle with cable adjustments but at this point I'm pretty set on picking up DF's new upgraded shifter when it comes out so it won't get much attention for now. I'm still not convinced my clutch is fully disengaging so it might get another bleed and status check here soon. I want to do some baseline tuning as well but there's not much of a point there until the intercooler pump gets fixed.

Same thing happened with my intercooler pump, I thought it worked initially when building and I think I purged the system and then it stopped working very soon after.

Cruise could be prevented by a clutch or brake switch. 1 brake switch is for the lights, 1 brake switch is for the cruise cancel. 1 clutch switch is for the starter circuit but the other switch is for cruise cancel when you start to press the clutch. I didn't need a resistor for the 3rd brake light, I also have a 06 SS/SC, I think that's only required for other model years unless I'm just forgetting that I added it (I can't recall putting it anywhere).

 

[Rauq]

I 3D printed a little Godzilla figurine planning to stick it to the license plate but haven't gotten around to painting it. My build buddy said I can't not go turbo and make stupid power now so I guess I'll have to add that to my list of things to do... eventually.

Cutch and brake pedal position switches actually seem like pretty low hanging fruit to check out in the quest for cruise control. Passengers in my other vehicles have poked fun at me for my reliance on cruise control but I've actually gotten used to kinda maintaining speed based on audible rpms. I know myself, though, and cruise control's important for me to avoid speeding tickets.

 

[Towerdog]

your license plate light should be tied in with your running lights (brown) and the resistor only on the brake light.
If the plate light is wired in with the 3rd brake light your plate will only light up when you hit the brakes.

 

[Gtstorey]

I thought the same thing when I first glanced at the diagram, but I think the black is ground.

your license plate light should be tied in with your running lights (brown) and the resistor only on the brake light.
If the plate light is wired in with the 3rd brake light your plate will only light up when you hit the brakes.

 

[Rauq]

I thought the same thing when I first glanced at the diagram, but I think the black is ground.

Yeah that's what's going on here. Those are actually the wire colors as well although I recognize I could've used a ground symbol on my drawing to indicate the black wire was ground. Blue and brown are the third brake light and license plate light positive supplies, respectively, and tested and confirmed as such.

 

[Towerdog]

I thought the same thing when I first glanced at the diagram, but I think the black is ground.

Yep I misread that "The third brake light and license plate lights are wired as the harness came from DF"

 

[Rauq]

Got the cruise control up and running today. Turns out the 5k ohm resistor on the resume switch was just barely not making continuity. This is the continuity that tells the BCM that the cruise enable switch is turned on. A blip of solder got that sorted out. My multimeter and I are best friends now from trying to find the root cause. In my blurry picture you might be barely able to see the air gap between the pin of the resistor and the blade of the switch.

I also threw a new intercooler pump on the car so I now have heat being exchanged in the heat exchanger. Now I feel more comfortable tuning the thing.

Unfortunately when I went to put the hood back on the car, I realized last time I took it off the dzus fasteners snapped. They've never been nice to me but I didn't realize I was being that unkind back to them. Instead of repairing or replacing I think I'm going to use this as an opportunity to hinge the front end. I'm always tinkering under the hood so I don't know if that's a smart move or enabling myself.

 

[jayrolls]

Got the cruise control up and running today. Turns out the 5k ohm resistor on the resume switch was just barely not making continuity. This is the continuity that tells the BCM that the cruise enable switch is turned on. A blip of solder got that sorted out. My multimeter and I are best friends now from trying to find the root cause. In my blurry picture you might be barely able to see the air gap between the pin of the resistor and the blade of the switch.
View attachment 25897

I also threw a new intercooler pump on the car so I now have heat being exchanged in the heat exchanger. Now I feel more comfortable tuning the thing.

Unfortunately when I went to put the hood back on the car, I realized last time I took it off the dzus fasteners snapped. They've never been nice to me but I didn't realize I was being that unkind back to them. Instead of repairing or replacing I think I'm going to use this as an opportunity to hinge the front end. I'm always tinkering under the hood so I don't know if that's a smart move or enabling myself.View attachment 25899

The resume switch on the button panel?

 

[Rauq]

This switch has a ~5k ohm resistor across the back of it. It provides continuity with resistance when the top latching switch (cruise enable) is turned on. Then the Resume and Set momentary switches each have an additional resistor wired in series with the switch, which, when toggled, changes the resistance of the circuit. There's only two wires coming off the button panel for all the cruise control switches together. It was the first resistor across the Resume switch (not the resistor for the Resume switch) that was not making contact, so that's where my repair was.

I also got the hinges installed on the front of my hood. It was really pretty straightforward. These are stainless with captive pins so they shouldn't cause me any issues down the road. I will clean up the spots where the dzus fasteners were mounted with some black paint. I'm also thinking about better mount solutions at the back of the hood than the nut and bolt to see if I can really make popping the hood a quick task.

 

[jayrolls]

This switch has a ~5k ohm resistor across the back of it. It provides continuity with resistance when the top latching switch (cruise enable) is turned on. Then the Resume and Set momentary switches each have an additional resistor wired in series with the switch, which, when toggled, changes the resistance of the circuit. There's only two wires coming off the button panel for all the cruise control switches together. It was the first resistor across the Resume switch (not the resistor for the Resume switch) that was not making contact, so that's where my repair was.
View attachment 25933

I also got the hinges installed on the front of my hood. It was really pretty straightforward. These are stainless with captive pins so they shouldn't cause me any issues down the road. I will clean up the spots where the dzus fasteners were mounted with some black paint. I'm also thinking about better mount solutions at the back of the hood than the nut and bolt to see if I can really make popping the hood a quick task.

View attachment 25936View attachment 25937View attachment 25938View attachment 25939

Did you have to add anything to stiffen up the hood for the hinges?

 

[Corgithulhu]

Do the old fastener ears hit the tabs where they used to fasten into? It looks like they would, and limit the hood to only open a little bit.

I like what you did, though. I might have to heavily inspire myself from that since I like the idea of an opening hood. I bet there's a nice clever way to put a latch or two in place of those upper hood bolts to make it easy to open and close on the fly.