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The base model brakes will out brake the grip you can generate with 90% of the setups here, the main benefits here are weight and cooling gains, it is likely feasible to do bigger rotors but would require at a minimum different caliper standoffs and likely a different hat set to accommodate a...

@Lonny is it possible to have a small rear bar added between the uprights? My intercooler is mounted across there and it would probably look nicer if you added it in production than if I added it

darn you @Justinreed7 just as I thought I was done buying things here you are with this, go ahead and put me down for a full set

@Lechlis can I request a set in something more exotic than aluminum or purchase the drawings to order my own? I've had a few failures in the webbing of them

Post cat O2 is removed both physically as well as disabled in the tune file unless you're running a cat, it has nothing to do with the normal operation of the engine and is solely for emissions

For what it's worth I've never had any issues from the law and I have about the loudest option possible, something like 18" from atmosphere to the turbine and the gate right on top, the only comment I have ever had was mention of emitting flames being a hazard during a drought/burn ban

Well now I feel slightly more bad about abusing the hell out of my stock LAP internals on 13psi , I'm running the same engine as you with the exception of cams, springs, balance shafts and injectors, I regularly turn it to 8100 RPM and have never had the head off. . .

I'll take it of you still have it

Only thing I recall having that bolt pattern is the rear trans mount to the subframe

I'm more than willing to continue helping through messenger but it would be a costly endeavor for me to come there as it's about a six hour drive to DFW for me

Not that I recommend it at all but I ran a SBE LAP with ZZP LE5 cams, OTTP 82lb springs, ZZP neutral balance shafts, a Chinese turbo and some DEKA 80 injectors to 8k pretty frequently with no issues, I turned it down slightly to 7900 just because it lays over pretty hard past 8k, again just to...

It's within a few degrees of ambient at all times, usually a 15-20 degree difference on ~13 psi, I'm sure if I added fans the low speed performance would improve

These two rings are the seals, I believe the other one in your photo is for the accessory drive if so equipped on the other end of the cam

I believe the sealing rings were a 12574477 but I'll have to verify in my records this evening, I bought them when I put the ZZP LE5 cams in my LAP

the only modules that will interrupt the ignition process are the ECU, BCM, and fuse box. The ECU is fully sealed and waterproof, the fuse box is much higher than the water line shown, the BCM is however in danger in the posted photo. You can disconnect the airbag module or leave it connected...

I would highly recommend against the team green insert, with any real power the delivery is haphazard at best and unless you violently drop the clutch donuts and slides are still a no-go, the OBX has some good reviews and obviously the Quaife is the top of the line option, there is a rwd...

No, that is the F23 specific seal inside of the bell housing, just know your going to need a pretty serious amount of heat and an impact to remove the hex bolt from the shaft, the loctite they use is serious

While fighting significant traction issues I've done multiple 12.5-12.7 second passes averaging 104-112 mph

Also, the GM 09120610 intermediate shaft seal is discontinued but a Ford 1311152 is the exact same piece, you will have to destroy it to remove it, you can almost always reuse the plastic oil guide behind it

Justin Reed is running the OBX clone in his new F23 and said it performed well on the hill climb event