I hope so too! I figured I will drive it this year and put in a build order over winter for spring time delivery. I have a spare turbo, fender, and some clutch pedal adjuster thing that the prior owner said was like $150 laying in the car.You will do very well selling many of those parts and help to cover the purchase price.
The trick is moving very slowly off the clutch, once the car starts to move ever so slightly you begin giving it tiny amounts of throttle while still very slowly coming off the clutch. Never jump off the clutch while you’re learning. If the car revs to 3k while you’re still coming off throttle, then apply less throttle. Eventually you’ll learn that sweet spot and get quicker with it, but give it time. Practice stops and goes. You won’t learn manual by doing constant rolls because the momentum of the car will keep you from stalling if you jump off the clutch.I hope so too! I figured I will drive it this year and put in a build order over winter for spring time delivery. I have a spare turbo, fender, and some clutch pedal adjuster thing that the prior owner said was like $150 laying in the car.
This is my first manual car so still learning to get it into first with it dying or jerking.
Thanks! I will check it out and see if the correct spec was replaced.Be sure to measure the ball joint stud diameter since you have an ss/tc and indicated that the lower control arms were replaced. The TC's have a 20.5mm ball joint stud while the rest of cobalts have 19.5mm ball joint studs. Some suppliers just sell the 19.5mm for the TC's and they end up causing issues. Specifically, this can cause some play in the front end of a cobalt and the back end of a goblin that is undesirable.
You can also resolve this issue with DF's rear suspension that is in development. Looking at your build time frame and I bet it will be released by then.