Brett W’s City Goblin – 09 SS Donor #229 v2.0

Brett

Well-Known Member
I was able to pickup my new frame along with various parts that were needed this past Saturday.

Working with Lonny, Adam, Kimberly, and team has been an extremely positive experience. I cannot say enough for everything they have done during this process. Thank you DF.

In addition, the Houston crew (Russell, Scott, Jason, Bill, Joe, Cody) have been great. Between finding parts they had left over from their builds, encouragement, answering my questions, and tolerating my unique personality, thank you.

Intent of this build is to have fun, enjoy some time with the kids, and achieve a life goal of building a car.

Donor was a previous Goblin that got a little banged up that was based on a 2009 SS. The original build log is at the following link:


New frame:
26869
26870


A few changes were made to this frame based on my previous build experience. Specifically, I have the double side bars on the sides, the tunnel has no tabs inside it since I will be running the radiator lines in the tunnel (more on that when I get to it), and the bottom tubes were welded off on the ends since I will not be pulling hoses through them. This is an extended frame.

In addition, DF install the A/T stiffener bars in the front (could also be called Ross bars ;-). While not necessary, I felt I needed to add some stiffing based on my experience and to keep up with the Houston crew and their crazy builds. Not to mention, keeping the very understanding wife satisfied.

The frame is currently at the powder coater (dropped off on 9/16). He stated 3 weeks but said he would most likely have it done in 2 (under promise and over deliver). I am using the same coater that did Rotty's (Russell) and JoeBob's frames.

Frame and many other parts will be Sunburst Orange PMB-0963. On my first build, I spent a lot of time rattle canning a bunch of miscellaneous parts. I decided this time to powder coat as much as I could with the caveat that if the parts were already apart of a subassembly, then I wasn't going to break then down further to do those parts. There will be a few parts coated in a satin black (tank, aluminum panels, some various brackets) but the primary color will be orange.

Next update will probably be when I get the frame back from the powder coater.

Brett
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
I'm looking forward to seeing how you build the second one differently. Not a whole lot of folks have had that opportunity and it seems you'll be making the most of it.

What are you thinking on tire selection for the new build?
 

Brett

Well-Known Member
I'm looking forward to seeing how you build the second one differently. Not a whole lot of folks have had that opportunity and it seems you'll be making the most of it.

What are you thinking on tire selection for the new build?
Toyo Proxes RA1's in 275/35/18. Basically, the biggest 100tw tire I could put on the rims that I already have which are 18x9 Saleen reproduction rims from American Muscle.
 

Brett

Well-Known Member
Yep. Any goblin with anything other than a stock 2.2L should be running 200tw or lower tires. *in my opinion*
I completely agree with this statement.

I had some people ask, outside of the forum, why this specific tire.

1. It is rated by Toyo to fit the rim width I already have.
2. It has decent wet weather performance. I don't plan on driving in the rain but this build is general purpose build so I have to plan for that potential.
3. It is basically the same tire as a Nitto NT01 (I believe that is the right model) but with different tread. Toyo and Nitto are apart of the same conglomerate and, in some case, share tire specs and designs. This is according to a Grassroots Motorsports article.

The reality is, if I get to the point of pushing the limits of these tires during autocross or some other event, then I will purchase track specific tires and wheels.

I just hope I don't find those limits when there is a Dodge Intrepid around. :)

Brett
 
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Rauq

Goblin Guru
I'll pile onto this, I'd recommend every Goblin should be running 200TW or lower, and to autocross it as early as is practicable. I trailered mine to an event before I even had a plate and learned quickly where the limits are (they're way out there, but they definitely exist!)
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
I'll pile onto this, I'd recommend every Goblin should be running 200TW or lower, and to autocross it as early as is practicable. I trailered mine to an event before I even had a plate and learned quickly where the limits are (they're way out there, but they definitely exist!)
Yep. Autocross is the most inexpensive way to find your car’s limit and sharpen your driving skills. Highly recommend
 

k.rollin

Goblin Guru
So if/when a chassis is damaged and replaced, the original serial number is transferred to the new chassis?
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
That’ll depend. Brett’s was never registered, titled or even had an mso yet. Technically, it didn’t exist. So the vin should be able to be moved to the new/repaired chassis. If it has a title and such, I would doubt it could be moved.

This is a note to others too, for your test drives without titles and/or registration: if something happens and your goblin gets impounded, you will play hell showing ownership to get it back. Again, it technically doesn’t exist and anyone who has dealt with an impound lot, knows how helpful and friendly those folks are. :rolleyes:
 

Brett

Well-Known Member
Rttoys's is correct. There are a lot of variables involved here but, in my instance, the serial number could be moved.
 

k.rollin

Goblin Guru
Ok, that makes sense. I was confused looking at the titles of your build logs. Aside from @ctuinstra's, yours is the only one I know of that was crashed to the point of requiring a whole new chassis.
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
As someone currently running a stock 2.2, every goblin should be running 200tw or lower tires.
If you drive a lot, running 200tw or lower tires will also wear out your bank account. One could easily go through a set of R888's every year. At ~$700 for tires and mount/balance, it adds up. I spent around $2,000 in about 2 years just on tires.

Glad to know there will be another orange Goblin out there. It's a color that's way under represented IMO.
 

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
On the track I go through a set of tires a day on my ducati, which is about $3-400, so I’m use to chewing up tires in the name of safety.
 

Brett

Well-Known Member
I'm not too concerned with chewing up tires. If I get to the point where I am burning through a set every few months, then I am enjoying the car and having a good time at various events.

If that truly happens, then I will end up with a track set of tires and wheels.
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
If you drive a lot, running 200tw or lower tires will also wear out your bank account. One could easily go through a set of R888's every year. At ~$700 for tires and mount/balance, it adds up. I spent around $2,000 in about 2 years just on tires.

Glad to know there will be another orange Goblin out there. It's a color that's way under represented IMO.
I have the Toyo R1R tires (harder compound than R888). 4000 miles of pretty aggressive road driving and a dozen autoX and they still have more than 50% tread left.
Just for another data point.
 
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