Brian's City Goblin-06/Crate MotorTC #61

[Brian74]

Only one issue remains... Fog lights. I didn’t realize that the fog light switch is actually a momentary ground trigger for the BCM. It will not work with a throw style switch as I had installed.

Luckily, I was able to source a proper Carling momentary switch from only one place in the US that had it. I will run a fog lamp jumper from the fuse box lighting plug into the BCM patch harness, to the dash. This way I will get illumination at the actual switch when the fog lights are on as my indicator the way the factory designed it.

I was going to run side pop-out fog lamps on linear actuators. I am thinking instead of using a 12” strip pencil beam mounted in front of the radiator.

As I wait for the switch, I am working ahead on the design for my lower steel side panel retainers. I think I am going to use neodymium magnets with two 3/4” flush latch pins to hold them in place; that way they can be removed as well as easily vinyl covered. I’m also not a fan of rivets.

My VXDIAG MPI came in yesterday. Anxious to test it...

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Brian, are talking about the aluminum side panels from DF or other panels? You mention steel panels, you may need to explain this, but it does sound like an interesting way to attach panels.

 

[jamesm]

I'm interested in hearing your feedback/opinions of the vxdiag.

 

[Brian74]

Brian, are talking about the aluminum side panels from DF or other panels? You mention steel panels, you may need to explain this, but it does sound like an interesting way to attach panels.

Aahh **** they’re aluminum? (In hot garage now checking. Oh...) $&@*%.... lol

 

[Brian74]

I'm interested in hearing your feedback/opinions of the vxdiag.

I have an old laptop that ran Windows 7. Apparently the MPI interface version of Tech2 depends on what Windows was popular at the time. TIS2000 works well on XP. Tech2Win works well on Windows 7. GDS/GDS2 works well on newer systems. I plan to build this old laptop on a dual boot Win7/10 to run Tech2win, HPT, and my AIM program.

 

[baustin]

If it helps, my side panels are installed to be removable, I used self tapping roofing screws that have captive rubber washers. I think I drilled pilot holes first.

Not sure what size I used but basically these:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Teks-9-x-1-in-Zinc-Plated-Zinc-Plated-Self-Drilling-Roofing-Screws-120-Count/3316530

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Aahh **** they’re aluminum? (In hot garage now checking. Oh...) $&@*%.... lol

Some other options that don't use rivets:

Plastic car body clips that can be removed

100Pcs 6mm Hole Car Plastic Rivets Fastener Fender Bumper Clips Retainer Rivets | eBay

Used widely for car fender, bumper, door or other car surface. Insert the female part into hole, push the male part to the bottom, closed position. Material: Plastic.

www.ebay.com

Rivnuts - these are what I plan to use with stainless steel 4mm button head screws

300 pcs Zinc Steel Rivet Nut Kit Rivnut Nutsert Assort 150pcs Metric+150pcs SAE | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 300 pcs Zinc Steel Rivet Nut Kit Rivnut Nutsert Assort 150pcs Metric+150pcs SAE at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Brian74]

Well, I started out this morning with no clear expectation, but a goal of being able to hook up a virtual tech2. I took an old laptop I had and bought a 500 gig SSD. I partitioned it and installed both 32 and 64 Windows 7. Of course I also had to install the laptop drivers. It was a process; to say the least.


I first tried to run VGDIAX on Win 7/64. I got the virtual tech2 to come up, but every time I tried to connect, I got a CANdi error. I installed a 32 bit version of Windows on a 2nd partition after reading that tech2 will not work on a 64 bit machine. Still got the same error though.

Pulling my hair out at this point. I did a few hundred Google searches, and realized I was missing a certain driver that was not included in the install package. I found that driver.

Fired it up in one last-ditch attempt. Holy ****. I have coms now. I can turn on any circuit from the BCM with the click of a mouse, read inputs/outputs, reprogram my brake pedal sensor, VATS, ect. Things just got WAY easier.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

So this means the kitchen table will be available soon. Good! I'll be down with my harness and we can work on mine, since you have already worked out all of the bugs, LOL. Seriously, sounds like your full custom dashboard and wire harness are almost ready for their new home in your Goblin. Congrats.

 

[Brian74]

So this means the kitchen table will be available soon. Good! I'll be down with my harness and we can work on mine, since you have already worked out all of the bugs, LOL. Seriously, sounds like your full custom dashboard and wire harness are almost ready for their new home in your Goblin. Congrats.

It will be pretty close once I get the AIM & VATS programmed, which is my goal today. This definitely makes things easier. Trying hard not to inadvertantly brainstorm any new electrical ideas in the meantime, lol.

 

[Rttoys]

I remember when the tech2 came out, I was one of the first ones to take the GM class on it Around ‘95? It was light years ahead of the old tech1, tech1a and cams. they actually thought it through too. They gave it an extra slot for bigger cards and room to add the candie module later on. It’s amazing how it still holds up 20something years later.

 

[Ark :D]

I remember when the tech2 came out, I was one of the first ones to take the GM class on it Around ‘95? It was light years ahead of the old tech1, tech1a and cams. they actually thought it through too. They gave it an extra slot for bigger cards and room to add the candie module later on. It’s amazing how it still holds up 20something years later.

No doubt, this thread has me strongly considering buying one.

 

[Brian74]

No doubt, this thread has me strongly considering buying one.

Dont buy the tech2. Buy the VXDIAG GM module ($110) and set up a laptop running 32 bit Windows 7.

Now that I’ve figured out the software, I can send you or anyone else a list of what’s needed to get it up & running.

Its unfortunate the guy who sells these doesn’t provide very clear instructions.

 

[Ark :D]

Awesome. I will probably pick one up, sooner rather than later.

 

[Briann1177]

Can it do a clutch sensor learn? I'm thinking it might be one of Arks last ditch efforts if the fuse box thing doesn't work.

 

[Ark :D]

Can it do a clutch sensor learn? I'm thinking it might be one of Arks last ditch efforts if the fuse box thing doesn't work.

For the record, with the CRNK relay jumped to ground, I swapped back to the new sensor for funsies. No start. I tried it with the clutch pedal in various positions. No start. Plugged the original back in, pushed the clutch in, and it fires right up via key. I no longer consider the clutch sensor to be an issue.

 

[Brian74]

Can it do a clutch sensor learn? I'm thinking it might be one of Arks last ditch efforts if the fuse box thing doesn't work.

Yes it can. Anything the dealer can do as its essentially the same tool they use.

 

[Rttoys]

Dont buy the tech2. Buy the VXDIAG GM module ($110) and set up a laptop running 32 bit Windows 7.

Now that I’ve figured out the software, I can send you or anyone else a list of what’s needed to get it up & running.

Its unfortunate the guy who sells these doesn’t provide very clear instructions.

And if you do buy a tech2, the China knockoff won’t work on the cobalt without a saab card (from what I understand).

I have a real deal tech2 that works fine, though.

 

[Brian74]

Another long day...
I kept having issues losing connection data from the DLC with the key on. I traced it back to the AIM causing some sort of interference to the CAN bus. I researched a long while to no avail. Then I got the bright idea of adding a couple diodes between the AIM & CAN bus. It worked.

Every function on the tech2 is working great.
Its super easy to get lost in there. I played around with the AIM a bit by adding some icons to the display while triggering the signals through the BCM with the tech2. High beam, turn signals, anti theft indicator (added custom icon), coolant level, batt, park brake indicators work. I even got my cruise control resisters right, because its registering the proper modes thru the tech2 based on switch positions.

I went to do a VATS relearn (as my TDM is from an 06), and to my surprise it has already learned this new key and TDM and enabled the ECM.

I still have some wiring to do, but feeling pretty lazy at this point.

 

[Brian74]

I’ve been working on things in the evening after work. I recieved the proper momentary grounding Carling switch for the fog lights and ran the wiring for it. Works as advertised now.

4 day weekend ahead... I’ve still got to finalize my dash to body harness connector. I’m having one last issue with the Aeroforce gauge not liking the diodes on the CAN bus that the AIM does like. I am considering moving the diodes over near the AIM, but waiting for their tech rep to talk to one of their experts as to determine if that’s a good permanant design decision. Not all that impressed with the Aeroforce gauge anyways; quality-wise. May instead put in an AEM wideband gauge. Using terminal blocks on the dash afforded me the opportunity to make future design changes.

I completely rewired the lighting plug at the fuse box with a nice long wire run that I can modify as needed for all of the forward lights.

I hope to do a temp install/mock-up this weekend in order to ensure proper measurements on the harness, as well as form tape the harness for proper bends, and mark the frame for harness retaining tabs and ground lug locations that I will weld in later. I also need to run the communication cable for the GPS module and AIM channel expansion. I may add some channel wires for a wideband O2 sensor as well for future use.

Once that is done, I will pull the harness, add the remaining few connectors, and wrap it.

I’m excited to finally get to the point where I can strip the dash back down, weld up the mount brackets, and do the vinyl wrap on it. I thought finalizing the harness was going to take much longer than it actually did. The electrical portion has been my favorite part of the build so far. Not sure if its because its 95 degres in my garage right now, or the instant gratification of seeing a circuit work after its hooked up properly, lol...

I was going to utilize some small side pop-out fog lights mounted on linear actuators, but I’ve decided to run a 12” strip pencil beam mounted at the front grille instead.