Chris_WNC's Track Frame #338 '09 LT Auto. REGISTERED in NC.

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
I was maxing out the stock MAP so I swapped in one of the Bosch 0281002845 3 Bar versions that come in the Stage 1 sensor kit from ZZP.

I made the changes in HP Tuners for linear and offset as suggested by ZZP and had issues immediately. The car wouldn't start using those settings for some reason. I switched back to stock settings and it would crank but the readings was off. I tried going for a quick trip up the road to a car show this morning and went into low power mode a couple of times. I had to power off and recrank to clear it. I turned around and made it back to the shop and started tinkering with it again. DTCs were baro and map related. I found some other settings online for linear and offset and changed it to that. Readings look ok now. I still need to go on a test drive though.

Here are my stock settings for the factory LAP MAP.


Here are the settings as found on BMotorsports.com. It's what I have programmed currently.


ZZP recommends Linear @ 65.89 kPa and offset @ -6.35 kPa.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
A quick check on ZZP didn’t show that part number. You aren’t plugging in random 3 bar linear/offset are you? They need to be for the particular part number,

what does it show for key on engine off? Should match for your elevation.

does your ECM have any pressure range settings for rep or dtc’s?
 

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
I got the stage 1 sensor kit from ZZP. They sent two of those sensors and a couple of wiring adapters. I got the linear and offset from a different website that has the sensor listed individually. Key on engine off pressure is good.

There's some airflow correlation settings under engine diagnostics. An enable RPM and some sub settings for the P0068.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Does the HPT description for linear say per volt or per 5 volts? I should have done the math. ZZP is per volt, other is per 5 volts,

of course the description in HPT for the LNF is wrong.
 

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
I’ll check the description tomorrow. Looks like you’re right on that math though.

@Gtstorey
Here's the description. It's per 5v.
[ECM] 4010 - MAP Sensor Linear: The linear calibration of the MAP sensor (slope) in pressure per 5 volts.
 
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Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
I checked my rear alignment yesterday before I took off on a data logging run. Woah, it was off from when I dropped the subframe for the engine swap. Left rear needed a slight toe adjustment. Right rear needed 1 degree of camber and an inch of toe taken out of it. :rolleyes: The data logging run was much more pleasant after that change. lol.

I've discovered that my factory NA/LAP black injectors run out of fuel when I get high in RPM and boost. I lean out pretty bad. I guess my next step is to do an injector upgrade before I spend any more time tuning. Thanks to @mike_sno for showing me where to look for injector duty cycle in HP Tuners.
 

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
I'm working on some summer projects.

I had the bright idea to move up to Corbeau adjustable seat brackets for my seats. To replace the flat steel mounts that I laser cut. During the test fit on the passenger side I didn't notice that the little front fingers were too wide for the slots cut in the DF provided floor. A little motivation was provided to make the bracket fit and I ripped the thin aluminum floor. :D I sent a file over to the laser shop and they cut me a one piece floor in 0.080" thickness. So it is thicker and one full piece now. I got that installed yesterday evening. I also had to do a lot of mods to the Corbeau bracket for the passenger seat to actually mount. I'm not sure these will end up being worth the effort.

ZZP is working with me on a remote tune. I got a baseline file for the 80# injectors. I haven't compared the files but he told me that he shifted some timing stuff, the fuel cells, and transmission stuff to get me going. I flashed the tune then installed the injectors. After taking care of a seating issue which was causing a slight leak...I cranked her up and let it idle a bit, then did a quick trip up the road and back. It was successful. Nothing blew up. Now we're safely in the data logging/adjustment phase. I'm happy about that. Just need to get my seats back in and I can get to logging.
 

Metal Mech

Well-Known Member
I'm working on some summer projects.

I had the bright idea to move up to Corbeau adjustable seat brackets for my seats. To replace the flat steel mounts that I laser cut. During the test fit on the passenger side I didn't notice that the little front fingers were too wide for the slots cut in the DF provided floor. A little motivation was provided to make the bracket fit and I ripped the thin aluminum floor. :D I sent a file over to the laser shop and they cut me a one piece floor in 0.080" thickness. So it is thicker and one full piece now. I got that installed yesterday evening. I also had to do a lot of mods to the Corbeau bracket for the passenger seat to actually mount. I'm not sure these will end up being worth the effort.

ZZP is working with me on a remote tune. I got a baseline file for the 80# injectors. I haven't compared the files but he told me that he shifted some timing stuff, the fuel cells, and transmission stuff to get me going. I flashed the tune then installed the injectors. After taking care of a seating issue which was causing a slight leak...I cranked her up and let it idle a bit, then did a quick trip up the road and back. It was successful. Nothing blew up. Now we're safely in the data logging/adjustment phase. I'm happy about that. Just need to get my seats back in and I can get to logging.
I need to get my car done first but I would love to upgrade to a thicker one pieces floor. The factory one feels so fragile and my kid already put a dent in it just by dropping a the steering column while trying to attach it.
 

Sluggonaut

Goblin Guru
I need to get my car done first but I would love to upgrade to a thicker one pieces floor. The factory one feels so fragile and my kid already put a dent in it just by dropping a the steering column while trying to attach it.
Same, I've dented both sides by the feet from lazy jack stand placement. If I had access to a lift I'd consider this upgrade because the floor always pops back into place when I move my feet around while driving and it's very annoying.
 

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
I'm up to log 4 with ZZP on the remote tune. 100% better than untuned. :D We're still logging and revising. :cool: On this last run the coupler at the throttle body popped off on a 0-100 sprint (in Mexico). I pressed it back on and drove home like a normal person to keep the boost down.

I'm getting around 19 psi max with BOV spring pressure. Power and boost builds wicked fast over 3k RPM. I need to get that 9LR wang mounted up front pretty soon. I'm going to break out the cardboard this weekend and see if I can figure something out for it.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Bigfoot Goblin
Chris, your best bet is to design up something you think works best first, then search the forum for the mounts that others have fabbded up. Then you can incorporate the best features of your and others designs into a better wing mount.

Just me, but I would look at doing a top side/swan mount to keep maximum ground clearance under the wing. Most every other ones have been bottom mounts that lose 1.5-2.0 inches of ground clearance where it's most needed. :D
 

comegetjoe

Goblin Guru
Just me, but I would look at doing a top side/swan mount to keep maximum ground clearance under the wing. Most every other ones have been bottom mounts that lose 1.5-2.0 inches of ground clearance where it's most needed. :D
I love the look of the Reed style front end wang, but the thought of something hanging upward, then over anf downward to give me clearance is VERY appealing. I've seen one such look on FB. Jordan Crevling posted up someone else's goblin that had a massive front mounted wing iirc that looked like a swan neck.
 

Chris_WNC

Well-Known Member
Up to log 7. It's running mucho better. Going by HP Tuners I'm getting 0-60 in 4 flat. That's sitting with no brake and stomping the gas. Normal cruising with the shifter in D is running very well. Never under powered and seems to be in the correct gear. I need to do a WOT pull from 40 or so the next time out. I keep forgetting to do that.

Wang project. I'm going to try a swan neck mount at the front. This was my first test cut in cardboard. I was off on a few measurements. I'll get it updated tomorrow and hopefully to the laser cutter by the end of the day. My plan is to use 1/4" aluminum and use the backside where the front A-arms are bolted as the main attachment point. I'll use my carbon fiber splitter rods to give it some angular support. We'll see!



 
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