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Desert Sasqwatch Track Extended - 08 SS/TC LNF F40

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
I feel you (maybe not though). It's been 95 or so every day this week, with humidity, here in PA. Probably sounds like a crisp autumn day to you, but I have sweat out gallons this week. It's tough to focus.

But I need to take my seats back out. I have a need to strengthen the tunnel cap. I just dont like the idea of a small handful of rivets securing the cover with a stick shift AND a parking brake mounted in it. Seems like asking for trouble.
Ark, I cut my tunnel cap into 3 pieces - front, center with the shifter, and rear (I don't need a parking brake) - that I will be adding screw mounts to the tunnel and 4 or more of these into the center section with the shifter. You're correct that the small rivets are not robust enough for some of us - gotta make it better! :p
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Man, I'm in the same exact boat. I have so many fabrication ideas and materials just waiting. Always told myself I'll never subject myself to misery of this heat. Welding in a 100 degree garage is no fun. If its not enjoyable, its not worth it.
Brian, only 8 more weeks and we should be back into better weather, brother! :oops::D
 

Mayor West

Well-Known Member
Limited User
I never understood why we're expected to rivet something that shouldn't be permanently installed, especially something that's gonna be banged around on like a shifter and parking brake.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
I never understood why we're expected to rivet something that shouldn't be permanently installed, especially something that's gonna be banged around on like a shifter and parking brake.
I agree there. I think the main objective was simplicity. I will be using threaded fasteners on everything.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
I will be threading or nut welding or rivnutting every fastener, no rivets. It is important to be able to disassemble everything if needed without having to get out the drill. :D

Edit: this also means welding on several more tabs to attach to.

Edit 2: the rear section of the tunnel cap - whether it has been cut or not - will be difficult to access the screws on the sides of the cover with the seats installed. Thinking the screws on the rear section of my tunnel cap will be moved to the top of the cover, with tabs welded to the inside of the tunnel.
 
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Mayor West

Well-Known Member
Limited User
I'm probably gonna rivnut mine, I'm already painted and can't weld now, but definitely don't want to rivet.

I'm almost to that point, so It's on my mind a lot lately.
 

Torchandregdoc

Well-Known Member
I used these little self tappers where the rivets were supposed to go. We have a metric shit ton of them at work and use them on everything.

over time they may loosen up, but we will see.
I knew my cap had to come right back of so these are what we used also. I was worried about the "drill" portion of the screw, so we cut those off and rounded them after the initial install. Just takes a minute to pull the cap now.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
I used these little self tappers where the rivets were supposed to go. We have a metric shit ton of them at work and use them on everything.

over time they may loosen up, but we will see.
Previous owner of my sandrail used a lot of those. The only ones I've really noticed loosening up are the ones that are holding up the subwoofer/amp due to the vibration. Add some rubber washers to them and they seem to do pretty well.
 

Torchandregdoc

Well-Known Member
Ark, I cut my tunnel cap into 3 pieces - front, center with the shifter, and rear (I don't need a parking brake) - that I will be adding screw mounts to the tunnel and 4 or more of these into the center section with the shifter. You're correct that the small rivets are not robust enough for some of us - gotta make it better! :p
Why did I not think/remember about cutting that cap in at least 2 pieces? I have been designing and building an ebrake (your ebrake has been cut and welded in several places, thanks for the donation), with most everything hidden in the tunnel. A multi piece cap is going to simplify it greatly. It is starting to get crowded in the tunnel though
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Ark, I cut my tunnel cap into 3 pieces - front, center with the shifter, and rear (I don't need a parking brake) - that I will be adding screw mounts to the tunnel and 4 or more of these into the center section with the shifter. You're correct that the small rivets are not robust enough for some of us - gotta make it better! :p
Yep, I also cut my tunnel cover and plan to add more anchor points. If there's one area I would label as "needs improved" with this kit, it's the tunnel cover. I don't really want to use rivets but that ship has already sailed. I guess I can drill them out if I really want to, and I've only put two in so far until I get my shifter working just right.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
... and probably have a contest to see who can find all of the weight loss 'easter eggs'. Edit: and all the added weight goodies.

So I've been formulating the weight loss contest and have come up with 3 parts for it that correct guesses will earn points towards winning a prize. :cool:

Part 1 - for the visually enhanced (there are many who don't miss a things in photos) to point out all of the weight gain and weight loss 'easter eggs' that I've worked into my frame. There will be plenty of photos to review. 1 point per weight gain item, 2 points per weight loss item.
Part 2 - guess how many times Racer X put a weight loss 'easter egg' into the diet weight loss items - better understanding of this after the below bonus question is answered. Closest to actual number wins 10 points.
Part 3 - guess the total net weight gain/loss to the frame - gains/reductions = net. I have been keeping track of the weight of all items added to the frame and also weighing the weight reduction 'fat' that Racer X has been removing. Closest answer to the actual net weight number wins 10 points.
A bonus question for someone to guess what it is that Racer X has been doing in my garage to effect all of this weight loss (to my weight additions). This 'old school' method is being employed and is done in the spirit of the late Colin Chapman "lighter is faster". Hint: Krusty has the right idea, not the best method. If you have seen this episode you will have the right answer. Correct term gets 5 points.

It will be a few weeks before I can start this contest, need to finish up some more fabrication and welding, plus Racer X is not done with the weight loss goodies yet. I will post to this again when ready to start and add the photos. The bonus question can be answered anytime. Let's have some fun with this. :D
Not sure what happen to this post - click to expand the above.
 

Attachments

Rttoys

Goblin Guru
A break in front of the shifter wouldn’t be bad, so you can access wires if need be.

since y’all are at this spot, if you need a park brake light, add a wire to the switch on the park brake mechanism and run it through the tunnel to the front. This will be ground when the lever is up. Then, find an ignition + somewhere up front to activate the light.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Thanks. Arizona doesn't require an emergency brake - sent mine to Jim (torchregdoc) for his build. I plan to use a line lock switch for a parking brake. Having my tunnel cover cut is a must for mounting this.
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
Yep, I also cut my tunnel cover and plan to add more anchor points. If there's one area I would label as "needs improved" with this kit, it's the tunnel cover. I don't really want to use rivets but that ship has already sailed. I guess I can drill them out if I really want to, and I've only put two in so far until I get my shifter working just right.
Ark and others, photos of where I cut my tunnel. Note I added a small plate to fill the gap between the pieces welded to the rear most and center pieces.
 

Attachments

Ross

Goblin Guru
Weird that the original post is missing.
It is easy to copy & paste. Here is Desert Sasqwatch contest rules:

So I've been formulating the weight loss contest and have come up with 3 parts for it that correct guesses will earn points towards winning a prize. :cool:

Part 1 - for the visually enhanced (there are many who don't miss a things in photos) to point out all of the weight gain and weight loss 'easter eggs' that I've worked into my frame. There will be plenty of photos to review. 1 point per weight gain item, 2 points per weight loss item.

Part 2 - guess how many times Racer X put a weight loss 'easter egg' into the diet weight loss items - better understanding of this after the below bonus question is answered. Closest to actual number wins 10 points.

Part 3 - guess the total net weight gain/loss to the frame - gains/reductions = net. I have been keeping track of the weight of all items added to the frame and also weighing the weight reduction 'fat' that Racer X has been removing. Closest answer to the actual net weight number wins 10 points.
A bonus question for someone to guess what it is that Racer X has been doing in my garage to effect all of this weight loss (to my weight additions). This 'old school' method is being employed and is done in the spirit of the late Colin Chapman "lighter is faster". Hint: Krusty has the right idea, not the best method. If you have seen this episode you will have the right answer. Correct term gets 5 points.
 
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