Owenmachine
Member
Before DF put parking brake handles provisions on the tunnel, I had began prepping for electric parking brake actuator.
Well I have finally completed the mechanics of the system.
Parts used:
-wilwood cable kit 330-9371 ($100) Amazon
-Estopp actuator kit #9108894 ($573) Speedway motors
The parking brake kit from DF utilize .5" of linear cable travel at the caliper. And the estopp actuator travels 1.575"
The estopp kit is way more than necessary. If I did it again I would buy just the control box from estopp and source a different actuator.
First thing is finding where to put the actuator. I don't have intercooler piping in my goblin. BUT... the actuator still doesn't fit without modifications.
First is you have to cut the mounting flanges down
Before:
After:
Now to attach the junction bracket to the cable end
Once that is done, we can tuck it inside the tunnel.
Run the outer cables sheath from the caliper to the junction bracket. Use broad curves and avoid getting to close to heat sources. Trim to fit.
Install the inner cable trim 1" shy of the single cable side of junction bracket.
Now I don't have pictures of adjusting the junction block. Use the wilwood block not the estopp equalizer. It took several adjustments to get it right.
First step is getting hard pull to the correct length of 1/2". I measured block movement with actuator engaged and disengaged and tightened adjuster nut ( I used a flame nut with flange facing block) until 1/2" of pull was achieved. Then jam it with nylock nut against flange nut.
To prevent cable ends from falling out of calipers I put a pretensioner spring on the adjuster thread between the block and a 3rd nut (large flange nut from donor) with loctite.
See video of action. Warning!!! loud beeping
Well I have finally completed the mechanics of the system.
Parts used:
-wilwood cable kit 330-9371 ($100) Amazon
-Estopp actuator kit #9108894 ($573) Speedway motors
The parking brake kit from DF utilize .5" of linear cable travel at the caliper. And the estopp actuator travels 1.575"
The estopp kit is way more than necessary. If I did it again I would buy just the control box from estopp and source a different actuator.
First thing is finding where to put the actuator. I don't have intercooler piping in my goblin. BUT... the actuator still doesn't fit without modifications.
First is you have to cut the mounting flanges down
Before:
After:
Now to attach the junction bracket to the cable end
Once that is done, we can tuck it inside the tunnel.
Run the outer cables sheath from the caliper to the junction bracket. Use broad curves and avoid getting to close to heat sources. Trim to fit.
Install the inner cable trim 1" shy of the single cable side of junction bracket.
Now I don't have pictures of adjusting the junction block. Use the wilwood block not the estopp equalizer. It took several adjustments to get it right.
First step is getting hard pull to the correct length of 1/2". I measured block movement with actuator engaged and disengaged and tightened adjuster nut ( I used a flame nut with flange facing block) until 1/2" of pull was achieved. Then jam it with nylock nut against flange nut.
To prevent cable ends from falling out of calipers I put a pretensioner spring on the adjuster thread between the block and a 3rd nut (large flange nut from donor) with loctite.
See video of action. Warning!!! loud beeping
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