Fingerprint Starter setup - Goblin #187

Ark :D

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Hello all,

I recently designed and installed a fingerprint starter setup for my Goblin.

Thread index:
  • Parts List - post #1
  • Fingerprint sensor assembly detail - post #2
  • Removing the TDM from the ignition module - post #3
  • Final pics/video - post #4
Methodology: I have wanted to install a fingerprint starter in the Goblin for a couple years now, ever since 2020 when @bradr sold me this custom ignition switch adapter. I held off on actually trying to implement the idea then, because his plan at the time was to design and sell a module that would act as a chip key emulator so the key did not need to be present within the transponder ring for the car to start/run. Well, life happens and bradr moved on from his kit, so I decided to revisit this project from a different angle.

*edit* Tweaking this post to remove the "key did not need to be present" part ... after some real testing, it doesn't work consistently and that's no-bueno.

Parts List:
Notes:

If you're interested in the 3D-printed bracket, I will ask permission of the forum member that initially designed it and shared it with me, before I am willing to share with anyone else. I doubt it'll be a problem, but I must show respect to the designer.

The fingerprint board and sensor and the Fortin stuff can all be found for much less than their MSRP's.
 
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Ark :D

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
20240219_094815.jpg20240219_094750.jpginside_shot.jpg

Starting with the bracket, I lightly modified the original design to include the correct-sized holes for the latching power button and the fingerprint sensor, then I sent it off to Craftcloud3D to be printed with polycarbonate, for decent heat resistance (I had a dash piece made from ABS that deformed in the summer heat), with 100% infill which may have not been necessary but I wanted to be sure.

Before doing anything else, there's some prep config that must be done on the fingerprint control board. To do this, I cut the barrel off a cheap 12v power supply and used it to power the fingerprint board/sensor.
  • Valid fingerprints need to be stored. By default, ANY fingerprint will work, which is umm... not ideal. To do this, you hold in the SET button for a short time, and the LED will flash rapidly. During this time, scan any fingerprint you want to store; I scanned six of my fingers because I tend to beat up my fingers and still want to be able to start the car if that happens. Once you're done adding prints, just wait a few seconds and the sensor will stop accepting new prints and the LED will stop flashing.
  • Mode selection switch must be set to 2 - this changes the board so a successful fingerprint scan toggles the relay for a set amount of time, then toggles it back off. This imitates key-on "crank".
  • The screw on top of the blue component must be adjusted to reduce the amount of time the relay is toggled on. Unfortunately, there's no visual indicator as to what it's set to; I just tweaked it until I liked it. Mine toggles on for about 1.5 seconds, instead of the default 10 seconds.
fingerprint.jpg

For the custom ignition adapter, I realize that it is no longer available but if you wanted to craft your own, it's relatively simple to do. Bradr provided a schematic in the first post of that thread. The concept with this adapter is that it has two output wires;
  • Pink - when grounded, this turns the ignition to the "on" position
  • Purple - when grounded, and pink is also grounded, provides "crank"
I'm not going to provide detailed wiring instructions here, but the idea is, you want to wire constant battery +12v and ground to a harness going into the assembly, then from there, wire constant battery +12v into both the power button's LED ring, and the power input on the fingerprint control board. Additionally, stick the rocker switch somewhere hidden that you can reach from the driver's seat, and install it in-line with the ground running into the assembly. This gives you a "kill switch" that you can use to ensure some passing kid doesn't turn on your ignition and leave you with a dead battery.

Then, you want to wire ground so the power button toggles it on when latched; you will want to wire all of these to receive ground by toggling on the power button: the LED ring's negative, the fingerprint board's negative, and the ignition adapter's pink wire. You don't want the power button's LED nor the fingerprint board to be powered at all times, because that will slowly drain your battery. Then finally, you will wire the fingerprint board's relay so it has ground connected to the COMMON output at all times, with the ignition adapter's purple wire connected to the NORMALLY OPEN output. NORMALLY CLOSED should have no connection.
 
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Ark :D

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
This entire section was rendered incorrect when I found out the immobilizer bypass was never going to work consistently, so I will change it to reflect what I did instead.

I decided to zip-tie one of my valid, working keys to the TDM (theft deterent module), which is located around your ignition barrel and contains a transponder ring that senses the chip key inside of it. To get the TDM off of the ignition switch, you partially turn the key toward the "on" position, then push inside the hole shown in the pic, to eject the barrel. Once it's out, you can remove the TDM easily (just be careful, it has a few brittle plastic clips on it). Once the TDM is off, put the barrel back into the ignition switch for safe-keeping.

20240425_184751.jpg
 
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Ark :D

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
That's it for now. Using the stock ignition barrel, I can start the car with the transponder ring completely unplugged, which I presume is a solid test and a reasonable "no chip key present" start/run scenario. I left it run for several minutes in this state, and it did not shut off. The PK3+ padlock light on the cluster stays on, but it runs.

I won't have the car back together to do a full test drive for at least another month or two.
 
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Ark :D

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Bump, added a hidden "kill switch" to the setup to ensure a passerby can't turn on your ignition and kill your battery.
 
Ark :D

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
Lo and behold, after two months, this setup is no longer working correctly. I reflashed the Fortin module, rechecked all the wiring, and relearned/reprogrammed the key. I've got an email out to Fortin Support but I am not too hopeful. I'll pretend the module is installed in an unmolested Cobalt for as long as I can!... lol. If all else fails, I will simply uninstall the module (undoing my wiring changes), separate the transponder from the ignition barrel, and tape the d***ed key inside the transponder ring.

If I can't get it going again, I'll blank out this entire thread. Hopefully nobody else has copied this setup...
 
Ark :D

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I found out today, that the Fortin EVO-ALL module is not meant to be used in the fashion I'm using it (run a car without a key, ever), so no support will be forthcoming. Therefore, I will just plug in the transponder ring, zip-tie a key securely inside of it, and hide it away somewhere. The push-button start will still work exactly the same, the car will just have a key hidden in it. Whatever.
 
JBINTX

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
Ark :D said:
I found out today, that the Fortin EVO-ALL module is not meant to be used in the fashion I'm using it (run a car without a key, ever), so no support will be forthcoming. Therefore, I will just plug in the transponder ring, zip-tie a key securely inside of it, and hide it away somewhere. The push-button start will still work exactly the same, the car will just have a key hidden in it. Whatever.
Click to expand...
I love your tenacity!!
We are all smarter now as a result.
So. What color are you gonna be next?
 
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