newbtrying
Active Member
powder coat, i assume?
Goblin frame prep for paint?
- Thread starter newbtrying
- Start date
Metal Mech
Well-Known Member
Yes powder coat.
escapepilot
Goblin Guru
The Cerakote option is interesting, but you'll need access to a large oven to cure it. Powdercoating is probably the best option but prices can vary significantly from less than $1000 to more than $2000. Paint is the most economical.
What is your end goal? Show car quality? Durability? Spend time instead of money? Listing your goals should help you narrow down your options to what is best for you.
What is your end goal? Show car quality? Durability? Spend time instead of money? Listing your goals should help you narrow down your options to what is best for you.
RGSkid70
Active Member
I painted my frame and really wish I had gone with powder coat instead. I used a 2-part epoxy primer and 2-part poly color coat. Wasted about 80% of the material on overspray, and spent way more than $600. Add the time spent on prep work and clean up/touch-up, and the decision is clearly favoring powder. A powder coat shop is going to sand or bead blast for you. You'll get even coverage in every nook and cranny. If you're worried about matching color later, spend some time up front finding a color with a close color match to a good automotive rattle-can lacquer.
escapepilot
Goblin Guru
A good paint shop can also color match to the powder coat and some can even put that in a rattle can.
LLBenJ
Well-Known Member
The end result of the powder coat will exceed your costs in labor, time and resources. The shops that powder coat will properly prep and apply the product and it will probably be more durable than paint over time. As others have stated, getting complete coverage on these tube chassis can be challenging and there are quite a few parts, especially anything steel, that you'll want to coat in something. Getting those color matched to the frame just adds to the aesthetics and durability.
pisco
Well-Known Member
I personally chose to paint over powder coat, I had the frame professionally sand blasted and bought a cheap "touch up" spray gun from harbor freight. https://www.harborfreight.com/120cc-hvlp-touch-up-air-spray-gun-61473.html
It worked great, I sprayed rust oleum from Menard's because its cheap and easy to find
I used bare metal primer first 2 coats, then ford tractor blue implement paint because it will never not be available in some form or another.
I followed the mfg instructions to thin for spraying and used a home made air dryer made from copper pipe ( https://7echocharlie.com/shop-setup-air-compressor-and-dryer/ ). I'm pleased with the results and the color exactly matches the same paint available in rattle cans, just much much cheaper to buy by the gallon. Rattle cans are super convenient for touch ups, just grab a cardboard scrap to catch overspray and shoot where you need to... I am glad I went this route because I am now ordering the halo from DF to convert my car to a full cage/track frame with added reinforcements.
It worked great, I sprayed rust oleum from Menard's because its cheap and easy to find
I used bare metal primer first 2 coats, then ford tractor blue implement paint because it will never not be available in some form or another.
I followed the mfg instructions to thin for spraying and used a home made air dryer made from copper pipe ( https://7echocharlie.com/shop-setup-air-compressor-and-dryer/ ). I'm pleased with the results and the color exactly matches the same paint available in rattle cans, just much much cheaper to buy by the gallon. Rattle cans are super convenient for touch ups, just grab a cardboard scrap to catch overspray and shoot where you need to... I am glad I went this route because I am now ordering the halo from DF to convert my car to a full cage/track frame with added reinforcements.