Is there a difference??
- Thread starter Jason d
- Start date
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
The basic frames are the same, it's the add-ons that differentiate between the donor model pieces that are used. The only exception is the F40 transmission option that alters the basic frame to accommodate the larger transmission.
Joebob
Goblin Guru
That is a different question between auto and manual. My understanding is that all Manual frames are the same. For automatic transmission, you have to see if the legacy clutch mounting bracket is retained or not. If you have the clutch bracket, then it should work between SS and non SS manuals. if you don't have the bracket, you are a automatic only car. The tunnel cap should also be different with Auto, to hold the trans shift cable.
With clutch bracket:
Without...but with optional frame bracing:
Center tunnel cap for auto:
With clutch bracket:
Without...but with optional frame bracing:
Center tunnel cap for auto:
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
Tell us more about what your resulting car will be and how much Cobalt you believe you will involve. Location can pay you some dividends as well. As you can see from my sig I'm not using much Goblin and mostly Cobalt. I am happy to share all the info I have gleaned from my building to help others. My effort is severely low buck and trying to repurpose as much original parts as possible. Shifters has taken me down an amazing rabbit hole. Automatic, I suggest you just un bolt the shifter from the floor and turn it 180*, bolt it back down and learn to use backwards! Sounds crazy but you'll get it fairly quickly.,,,, Driving cars in both England(RHD) and in Belgium(LHD) in one day takes some concentration but it can be done. I've driven a race car that was RHD with the shifter on the right, that will certainly boggle yer brain!
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
I believe if you are not set on an automatic I would order a manual design frame and just leave the manual parts off. I believe the only difference(Man/Auto) is the clutch pedal supports and the clutch master cylinder plate? Oh, and the clutch pipe, but it is not part of the frame.
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
I and others still would enjoy seeing where this is all going! My position has always been, Power it how ya want!, just don't be surprised when/if you find your brand X engine and trans(in spite of copious effort) produces insufficient gain vs modification expense!
.....Contrary to popular(web troll) belief I did not wake up one morning and decide to mid engine a Cobalt. The big pic was mid engine Some BODY that had been built FWD..... The search began, it had to have a front sub frame supporting the drive train.(there goes most import options) There had to be so many made so that I start with an inexpensive, highly interchangeable and available victim!(Goodbye 98 Dodge Avenger, so many pretty victims lost due to high cost/low availability) You can see where this is headed(Goodbye 2000 Celica). The final straw was the creation of the DF Goblin! They did so much of my Science Homework how could I turn that GIFT away! My goal was also to produce a unit that would still be road legal even emissions compliant if needed. So let us see where you're headed!.....
A word of advice, don't give nay sayers much attention, unless they have already tried to build the exact same toy! Then at least see if they will admit where they went wrong! Plus Cubic Dollars will overcome much, so if'n ya got the bux it's all possible. (I'm determined to be on the no $$ list.)
Warning! History Vomit: In the early days of the Ford Mustang 64-8 there was a push to a 2 seat/mid engine design. I would have liked to have seen that! The corporation said No Two Seaters, must have higher sales volume. And some portion of Ford backdoored the DeTomaso, Pantera W/ 351CID Cleveland motor into Lincoln/Mercury dealerships by 72. IMO The 2 seat car remained the toy of the rich fellows.
.....Contrary to popular(web troll) belief I did not wake up one morning and decide to mid engine a Cobalt. The big pic was mid engine Some BODY that had been built FWD..... The search began, it had to have a front sub frame supporting the drive train.(there goes most import options) There had to be so many made so that I start with an inexpensive, highly interchangeable and available victim!(Goodbye 98 Dodge Avenger, so many pretty victims lost due to high cost/low availability) You can see where this is headed(Goodbye 2000 Celica). The final straw was the creation of the DF Goblin! They did so much of my Science Homework how could I turn that GIFT away! My goal was also to produce a unit that would still be road legal even emissions compliant if needed. So let us see where you're headed!.....
A word of advice, don't give nay sayers much attention, unless they have already tried to build the exact same toy! Then at least see if they will admit where they went wrong! Plus Cubic Dollars will overcome much, so if'n ya got the bux it's all possible. (I'm determined to be on the no $$ list.)
Warning! History Vomit: In the early days of the Ford Mustang 64-8 there was a push to a 2 seat/mid engine design. I would have liked to have seen that! The corporation said No Two Seaters, must have higher sales volume. And some portion of Ford backdoored the DeTomaso, Pantera W/ 351CID Cleveland motor into Lincoln/Mercury dealerships by 72. IMO The 2 seat car remained the toy of the rich fellows.
I remember a couple of potential engine swaps on here, but I don't think any have actually worked (except the Tesla Goblin, if that counts).
What engine are you swapping to?
I'm sure it can be done, but depending on what you want, the Ecotec is probably still the most cost effective and easiest choice. With forced induction it can make low-end V8 power. With internal mods it can be a naturally aspirated 8000rpm screamer. It's a robust little motor with good aftermarket support and an active community. I don't know what benefits a swapped engine would have, but I always love to hear about other ideas.
What engine are you swapping to?
I'm sure it can be done, but depending on what you want, the Ecotec is probably still the most cost effective and easiest choice. With forced induction it can make low-end V8 power. With internal mods it can be a naturally aspirated 8000rpm screamer. It's a robust little motor with good aftermarket support and an active community. I don't know what benefits a swapped engine would have, but I always love to hear about other ideas.
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
I'm not sure I care what engine he chooses. The experiment can only benefit us all! My experiment so far is in "Other Builds". I have gleaned much about your donors! I like to share the things I've found out the hard way. Helping others makes many of the self inflicted headaches I have endured seem a little more worthwhile.