Mayor West's 09 SS/TC Ext. Track Turbo #191 [South Carolina]

Mayor West

Well-Known Member
So the rpd issue is sorta fixed? It appears to work sometimes and then turn the screen black if on Auto.

My obd port is still angry. Nothings able to read off it, hptuners, tech2, or my normal obd2 scanner.

I've checked a few fuses but nothing has come up yet.

Adam got back to me and said I have a newer-style shift cable mount, but they didn't check with a stock transmission mount because most folks buy their solid mount, so we're working on a bracket swap to remedy the lining up.

Thanks Adam!
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Mayor West

Well-Known Member
Okay so great news, the OBD issue is tied to the fact that I didn't have my power steering box plugged in. Since I'm going manual steering, I removed the power steering box, but there are high speed data wires in there directly connected to the OBD2 plug, so I need to rewire that to go manual.

Now after going through my newly found OBD2 access with my tech2, I'm coming to conclusion that my ECM, fuse box, or relays may be damaged. Hoping for the fuses/relays.

Background Info: When I got my donor, the clutch position sensor was throwing P0808 (voltage too high) as well as my fuel level sender giving P0463 (voltage too high). Both codes were there when I got the car, and both codes will not go away with my Tech2 DTC removal.

Both of these sensors share the same TAN wire... leads me to believe there's mischief afoot between their shared high voltage codes.

I've replaced my clutch position sensor with a brand new one, tried to clear the DTC so that I could do a clutch relearn, but it continues to show up immediately. Apparently, when you have a clutch DTC, Tech2 won't do the relearn until it's cleared.

There's something going on with that tan wire. I wonder if this is something up with the ECM since it was going on before I rewired the harness.
One of the screenshots has the tan wire going to a spot called "Low Ref".


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Goblin Guru
The Low Ref is basically signal ground. This may not be the exact same as frame ground but a ground or "low" for the signal. As I was reading though this, I was thinking that you may not have the ground side of the pot for the clutch if you are measuring the source voltage (4.9v) all the time. It needs the "low" side to be able to go low, if that makes sense.

Mayor West

Well-Known Member
Good point! If Low Ref is a problem it would indeed cause issues for both sensors since both have the exact same high voltage DTC thrown and the tan wire is shared between Low Ref, Clutch, and Fuel Level.

SO... if the Low Ref is not getting a good feed, I think my current to-do list is:
  1. Connection at the Low Ref endpoint
    1. Did I cut it? Maybe but it was broken before I disassembled my car...
    2. Is there a fuse there? I checked all fuses and all appear to be OK, not sure if this would even have one though.
  2. Continuity/Resistance reading from the Low Ref endpoint to the sensors
    1. What would a normal ohm reading be for a few feed of wire?
    2. It has continuity because it's reading, but that Low Ref COULD be damaged/cut/etc
  3. Multiplug damaged
  4. ECM itself
Question: I know the BCM is tied to the VIN/security, but is the ECM? Like, if I replaced the ECM with a correct model year ecm from the interwebs, would I need to do anything else aside from relearning clutch/crank sensors?

Electrical is my least knowledgeable automotive area, but I'm really (painfully) enjoying this process of debugging it. Thank you for your help @ctuinstra!
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Goblin Guru
You do a great job of providing information and doing a lot of work on your own! It makes it a pleasure to help you out.

First, I really don’t think that you have a bad ECM or anything. It’s most likely a wiring issue. Let’s keep it simple. I can’t see the diagrams hardly at all on my phone while at work so I can’t reference them, but ohm out between the clutch sensor LOW REF side and to the source of the LOW REF at the ECM/BCM it where ever it goes. You should read ideally 0 ohms but could measure 1-3 ohms. If you don’t get that, you need to figure that out before going any farther.

There are no fuses on the “grounds” or low sides.

Mayor West

Well-Known Member
The wire didn't appear to be well secured so I may need to find a way to make it stay. I'd hate to be stuck on the road and have it pop out.
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New Member
I have read your Build Log from beginning to end today, and will continue to follow. Love your attention to detail... I am in the donor search stage myself.

What does RPD stand for? I did a google search, but found nothing car related...

Mayor West

Well-Known Member
Yes, Ross. SS/TCs had them. Some came as an option, later years came with them by default. It’s a neat gimmick but IMO it’s not worth the hassle. I’d rather have the analog gauge.

Thanks for the follow Paul, I look for ward to seeing what you find and build. This is definitely a fun project.

Okay so for tonight’s update, I fixed the pin on the wire previously discussed. Added trans oil (1.7qts of the GM stuff) fitting my intercooler back on, ran all my IC piping, hot wired my power steering to manual conversion data wires, wired and installed my Wideband, and turned the car over enough to prime oil pressure with fuel cut off. I don’t even have fuel in the tank but I don’t like running the pump dry.

QQ...when you turn your ignition key to crank, and let go, goes it keep cranking forever until you turn it off? Lol... asking for a friend.


Goblin Guru
When I turn the key to crank, it cranks until the engine starts. Turning the key off doesn't stop this.
I don't know if you can turn it off, until it starts. If I disconnect the spark plugs, would it crank until the battery is dead? It must have a timer to prevent the starter from melting down, but I have never tested this.

Mayor West

Well-Known Member
Okay so that's intended functionality and not something I messed up, good to know. Thanks guys!

I wrote up a lil to-do list that I'll try to update as I go along, let me know if you can think of anything else that needs to be added.

Looking at this list it's sort of large, but reading it makes it sorta less daunting because everything's toward the end, final steps... really getting close.
  • Rear Brake Calipers
    • Install calipers
    • Install Parking Brake Adapters
  • Parking Brake
    • Install on to shift tunnel
  • Brake Hard Lines
    • Front lines from main to wheels
  • Brake Soft Lines
    • Front
    • Rear
  • Battery Hold Down Bracket
    • Install/Cut bolts
  • Brake Booster Vacuum Hose
    • Install Front & Rear
    • Print 2nd adapter
  • Fluids
    • Brake/Clutch
    • Radiator (100% water for now)
  • Bleed
    • Brakes
    • Clutch
  • Fuel Tank
    • Vent Hose Nipple
    • Sandblast Fuel Neck
    • Paint Fuel Neck
    • Install
    • Confirm that fuel level correctly rises on gauge once fuel's added (fuel gauge has never worked)
  • Engine Mounts
    • Paint new solid mounts
    • Install
  • Shift Cables
    • Install (once new mounts arrive)
  • Shift Linkage
    • Install OTTP with custom made adapters for threaded rod
  • Radiator
    • Wire fan
  • Steering
    • Figure out adapters/mount for new manual steering
    • Find a nut to attach hub adapter
  • Turbo
    • Install vacuum nipple in compressor
    • Hook up vacuum lines to BOV, Wastegate, and boost solenoid
  • BCM
    • Install Kickplate
  • Wiring
    • Tidy up unused plugs
    • Put ambient air sensor somewhere
    • Fully implement wideband wiring
    • Wire headlights
    • Wire mirrors
    • Wire brake lights
  • Alignment
    • Do it
Non show-stopper bugs to sort out
  1. Confirm that fuel level on gauge rises when fuel's added (it's never worked but I think the low-ref clutch fix will solve this)
  2. Figure out why the speedometer reads 10mph when the car's clearly not moving
    1. Unplugging the sensor does nothing
    2. Tech2 reads the car as 0 mph, so maybe the gauge is messed up?
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Well-Known Member
With the manual steering, if you're taking away the stalk you'll have to rewire the turns. You also didn't mention head/tail light wiring

For the fuel level, you did the fuel pump re-orientation?

For the MPH, it's probably because you pulled off the stick to tape over the CEL's ..... just pull it off with the car on and reset to 0. Your RPM's will be off as well.

I got you on the alignment.

Mayor West

Well-Known Member
With the manual steering, if you're taking away the stalk you'll have to rewire the turns. You also didn't mention head/tail light wiring

For the fuel level, you did the fuel pump re-orientation?

For the MPH, it's probably because you pulled off the stick to tape over the CEL's ..... just pull it off with the car on and reset to 0. Your RPM's will be off as well.

I got you on the alignment.
Yeah, I need to add in wiring of the lights and signals.

I told you I’m gonna model up a stalk bracket for us so I got you on that front.

Fuel pump is turned but I did not bend the fuel level wire.

Regarding the mph, I didn’t pull the whole black cover off or pull the needles off but I see what you’re saying. I’ll pull that cover back off and see if I can fix it back to 0


Goblin Guru
yes it has “auto start”. It will stop after a timed limit.

Fuel tank
I used a rollover vent valve on mine, so it vents, but in the event of a rollover, it will close, so you don’t spill fuel.

pull cluster, disassemble, and move needle?