Traé
Well-Known Member
I can fit a smaller diameter bolt all the way through the hole. I may be able to just role with that,
Traé’s Goblin (06’ SS/SC #501)
- Thread starter Traé
- Start date
Unless I'm missing something from the picture, you still have a lot of bolt left in there and can and at least drill it more before you get into the aluminum. and the offset is towards the case, so it won't hurt of you are putting in a smaller through bolt to go all the way to the aluminum.
Traé
Well-Known Member
The lip you see that looks like the bolt is where an off-center, larger hole was being drilled. I stuck a drill bit in there and it looks like a 1/2" hole was started. There is not much bolt left but on the top right of the hole there is enough bolt to be causing me trouble with the tap. I'm going to get the largest bolt I can through the hole and fasten it with a nut.
Last edited:
ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
You might ask your machine shop guy for size, grade and torque recommendation.
Traé
Well-Known Member
Got an email from DF, frame will be shipping out this week!
Already scheduled to get the frame painted the first weekend of march.
I have completed the timing job on the motor this past week and this weekend got the motor fully reassembled and the engine harness reinstalled. This will be a long week waiting for the call from stewart transport
.
Already scheduled to get the frame painted the first weekend of march.
I have completed the timing job on the motor this past week and this weekend got the motor fully reassembled and the engine harness reinstalled. This will be a long week waiting for the call from stewart transport
.ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
waiting stinks.Got an email from DF, frame will be shipping out this week!
Already scheduled to get the frame painted the first weekend of march.
I have completed the timing job on the motor this past week and this weekend got the motor fully reassembled and the engine harness reinstalled. This will be a long week waiting for the call from stewart transport
Traé
Well-Known Member
Frame and a few parts I want to match are sanded and prepped for paint this Saturday. Coolant hoses were pulled yesterday after reading a few tips. to not have to struggle pulling hoses with the painted frame flipped over. I see the concern and like the idea but in my experience the hoses were incredibly easy to get through the frame.
Last edited:
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
Pulling hoses before finishing the frame seems to be out of order, but I guess if you're painting and not powder coating with the high temperature bake you're good.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
I am curious about this.
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
If you plan to powder coat, it gets baked at 350-400 degrees. Your rubber hoses, if pulled already, will turn brittle and degrade, possibly creating a leak once under pressure.
comegetjoe
Goblin Guru
hahaha, yeah. I get that. I am curious as to why he pulled the hoses before painting. What were the tips he read?
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
Traé
Well-Known Member
I’m painting my frame not powder coating. So I’ll just mask it off.
I saw someone pull their hoses before paint and recommended it to prevent scratching while the frame was flipped over and tugging the hoses through. Seemed like a good idea but after pulling the hoses I don’t see a need. They went through incredibly easy.
I saw someone pull their hoses before paint and recommended it to prevent scratching while the frame was flipped over and tugging the hoses through. Seemed like a good idea but after pulling the hoses I don’t see a need. They went through incredibly easy.
Traé
Well-Known Member
Frame is painted!
I used 1 paintable gallon of Eastwood 3:1 single stage paint along with activator and hardener. The gallon provided 2 coats to the engine cradle, frame, A arms, tunnel covers, radiator mount and rear tie rod mount.
Prep took about 15 hours. Sanding little by little each day after work by hand with a lot (and I mean a lot) of 120 grit sand paper. Once sanded the frame was cleaned with degreaser, acetone and then baked at a whopping 80° before the epoxy primer was sprayed on. It was not terrible by any means but it is tough getting coverage on everything, lots of hidden spots but I was at least able to get primer on everything. The end result looks surprisingly well compared to the warnings I’ve read about and received about painting the frame. The lights in the paint booth helped a lot with pointing out missed areas or spots with lighter coats.
We will see how it holds up over time but I am happy with the outcome at the moment.
I used 1 paintable gallon of Eastwood 3:1 single stage paint along with activator and hardener. The gallon provided 2 coats to the engine cradle, frame, A arms, tunnel covers, radiator mount and rear tie rod mount.
Prep took about 15 hours. Sanding little by little each day after work by hand with a lot (and I mean a lot) of 120 grit sand paper. Once sanded the frame was cleaned with degreaser, acetone and then baked at a whopping 80° before the epoxy primer was sprayed on. It was not terrible by any means but it is tough getting coverage on everything, lots of hidden spots but I was at least able to get primer on everything. The end result looks surprisingly well compared to the warnings I’ve read about and received about painting the frame. The lights in the paint booth helped a lot with pointing out missed areas or spots with lighter coats.
We will see how it holds up over time but I am happy with the outcome at the moment.
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
Fantastic job, looks great! You went into this with the right expectations and came away with a satisfying result. Can't wait to see how your build progresses.
Traé
Well-Known Member
Thank you!
Also, I found this in the garage this morning. Do you need another sticker for the tool box?