Traé’s Goblin (06’ SS/SC #501)

Traé

Well-Known Member
Do the rear toe link ends have a torque value like the front? Or is it just tightened enough to get the safety pin in the groove?
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Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
Again, I rarely if ever apply a torque wrench to something like this, but "just tight enough to get" the cotter pin in could leave a lot of variation. But if you want to actually torque it, the same as the front is a good place to start.
 

Robinjo

Goblin Guru
I tightened mine down all the way and it goes much further than that. Enough that I had to fold the cotter pins ends around well to make sure it didn't slide out.
 

Traé

Well-Known Member
I tightened mine down all the way and it goes much further than that. Enough that I had to fold the cotter pins ends around well to make sure it didn't slide out.
I got it torqued down to 50ftlbs like the front. I had to over tighten it ever so slightly to get the hole to line up but got the cotter pin installed and wrapped around.
 

Traé

Well-Known Member
New Hubs came in this morning, also got some Dorman freeze plugs to cap the back of the front hubs. I have 8 remaining if anyone wants a few I can mail them to you.
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Traé

Well-Known Member
The silver 'ring' that has the wire lead on the hubs can be removed. It is not needed on the Goblin, it was used for the ABS.
I haven’t tried to remove that one but it seems it gives it the right diameter to fit into the knuckle. I’ve already installed them and am just going to tie the wire up or snip it off.
 

Traé

Well-Known Member
Attempting to fill my heat exchanger run this evening.
At first I could not hold vacuum in the system but tightened all connections and it improved drastically. I could audibly hear the leak at the front HX were the hose connects to the PEX. I now I have a SMALL leak somewhere that I can not find.
I pull the system just passed 25 on the gauge and within 3-4 mins it is where I took this picture. Take 11 mins to get to 20.
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I even removed the supercharger to see if I could hear a core oring leaking and didn’t hear anything.

Any advice? I’m at a loss and thinking of filling it to find the leak better but if it is an oring I don’t want coolant in the intake.
 
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Traé

Well-Known Member
Things will act differently under pressure/no pressure than they do at vacuum. I would try applying pressure to about 13-15 psi and see what it does.
So I partially did that, I just plugged the hose with my thumb and pressurized the system. I’m not sure what the pressure was as the gauge doesn’t read positive but it seems to have held. I sprayed soapy water on every connection and the laminova core cover plate and did not see evidence of a leak. Was it pressurized enough to leak? Who knows. I may be able to fashion something to seal it off and get an accurate reading for pressure and try again.
 

Gtstorey

Goblin Guru
I used a different heat exchanger for mine so I didn’t realize the DF supplied HE had such a low pressure setting. I doubt there is anything that can’t stand the higher pressure I mentioned but might back it down some from there. And if you are pressuring with the cap in place it won’t let you go beyond that.
 
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ah.b.normal

Goblin Guru
the ic system only run 3 psi or less. The cap is set at 3psi, for reference.
3PSI?! Really. An excellent little tidbit to remember. Thanks for the reminder, salient info for builders! I'm sure it is on the cap(D'UOH!) but I've not looked. So easy to default/equate to radiator pressure.
 

Rauq

Goblin Guru
The pump's only rated for 0.3bar (just over 4psi) and the coolant doesn't get hot enough to require pressure to remain a liquid like a radiator system. Intake manifold boost is a higher pressure and would be trying to make its way into the coolant, but typically if the fluid system isn't sealed well enough that the intake is pressurizing it, it's also leaking coolant into the intake either when the manifold's in vacuum (sucking) or slowly while sitting (slow leaking).

Coolant into the intake is a bigger concern than leaking outside of the system, so if you can verify with a small bit of pressure that the laminova cores aren't leaking into the intake (verify with supercharger off), that's the primary focus. Exterior drips can be followed up on later.
 
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