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V1 Absolutely nothing electrically speaking.

B
I thought this might have been a typo checking continuity from grounds to the positive battery terminal. Then your last post you were thinking the main power wire in the fuse block was the ground.

Dumb question but you do have the battery hooked up correctly?
No such thing as a dumb question! It is hooked up correctly.
 
B
I have partial power! There is a very small connector on the ignition switch that I missed. Now the dashboard lights up! However when I turn the key all the way the starter does not turn. Progress!
 

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CaptFrank2001
Reading what you have said. The cable running from the front of the car DOES NOT connect like you have shown in the first picture. In other words it DOES NOT connect to the fuse/relay box. That cable connects directly to the large post on the starter solenoid. A separate cable (about 4 feet long) goes from that point on the fuse/relay panel to the same post on the starter solenoid.
 

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Goblin Graber
I have partial power! There is a very small connector on the ignition switch that I missed. Now the dashboard lights up! However when I turn the key all the way the starter does not turn. Progress!
Awesome. Now hookup your power steering too get rid of another problem. The high speed data runs in and out of the power steering.
5F0E47A8-ED7A-4B5B-9B67-198B5BE21D1C.jpeg
 
B
The two grounding post's you show .... the one by the engine mount and the one on the negative side of the battery. Both are covered in paint. It is imperative that you clean those post's right down to bare metal. You must have good grounds !!! A rotary wire brush in a drill works wonders.
I thought this might have been a typo checking continuity from grounds to the positive battery terminal. Then your last post you were thinking the main power wire in the fuse block was the ground.

Dumb question but you do have the battery hooked up correctly?
There is no such thing as a dumb question! My experience with this car proves that.
 
B
Reading what you have said. The cable running from the front of the car DOES NOT connect like you have shown in the first picture. In other words it DOES NOT connect to the fuse/relay box. That cable connects directly to the large post on the starter solenoid. A separate cable (about 4 feet long) goes from that point on the fuse/relay panel to the same post on the starter solenoid.
I may have mis-spoken about the wire going to the starter. It is from the harness/front of the car. The pic of what I thought was the ground at the back is the power to the ECM. I still have not found the ground out of the ECM. Problem now is the ignition switch only has 3 positions, accessories, on and start. When I turn from acc to on I hear relays in the BCM and I have lights on the dash and the automatic shifter. The shifter is in park, and I push the brake pedal and get no starter when I turn the key. There's a small lever on the shifter that moves when I push the brake. When I turn the key to acc the light on the shifter is still on and the little lever still moves when I push the brake. I can't get the key to move to the off position. I see a small pad, looks like it might be part of the steering lock, but the key doesn't go to off even if I push that pad in. Have I said before how much I hate auto electrics?
 
B
I was talking to a friend at work (not a mechanic), and said I was ready to get through the electrics so I could get to the suspension and brakes because I understand them. He made the comment that it's like going from science to Legos, which I thought was funny but true!
 
Goblin Graber
The key not coming out is great news!! That really narrows it down to still having a bad connection at the ignition switch.

I worked at a GM store for 10 years and this generation of vehicles will NOT let you turn the off the ignition and take they key out with a dead battery. When I say dead I mean turn the key and nothing dead and then you would need a jump box just to get the key out.

You either have a bad connection at the switch or a blown fuse that’s preventing it from getting power
 
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B
The key not coming out is great news!! That really narrows it down to still having a bad connection at the ignition switch.

I worked at a GM store for 10 years and this generation of vehicles will NOT let you turn the off the ignition and take they key out with a dead battery. When I say dead I mean turn the key and nothing dead and then you would need a jump box just to get the key out.

You either have a bad connection at the switch or a blown fuse that’s preventing it from getting power
I can get the key out now, but I still can't turn it off. I found a connector that goes to the throttle sensor and plugged it in. I have what seems like dozens of connectors that I can't find where they go!
 
B
Take pictures of the unplugged connectors, and tell us (or picture) what the plug before and/or after it is.
1. Two coming out of harness near ignition switch and power steering.
2. Out of harness behind dash.
3. Out of harness tied in with throttle sensor.
4. Out of harness near BCM.
5. Out of harness behind radiator near brake booster.
6. Back of car. Red is labeled radiator power and black is labeled radiator sensor.
7. Back of car tied into harness with fuel pump connector.
8. Two out of harness between engine and ECM.
9. This one is attached to the engine mount.
10. Out of harness between engine and fuel tank.
11. Out of harness between engine and fuel tank near #6.
The rest are labeled or I know where they go.
 

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Goblin Graber
1 is for the turn signal switch
2 is the OBD2 port for diagnostics- nothing gets hooked to it
3 don’t know
4 I believe is for the ambient light sensor
5 should hook to the brake reservoir
6 went to the radiator and don’t get used now
7 ambient temp sensor. Clip that into one of the holes in the front of the subframe.
8 The purple one looks like a coil plug. The red one is the EVAP canister. Most likely won’t get hooked up
9. O2 sensor
10 & 11 Hmmmmm
 
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Ross
1. also has the 10 pin single row connector that went to your clockspring - so your horn, cruise controls & audio controls on the steering wheel. Nothing that will stop the car from running if left unconnected.
 
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