ah.b.normal
Goblin Guru
- ah.b.normal Goblin Guru
Ahhh if only it was that easy! and I have a 2 for one coupon! 
Silly DS! People in the US can't read! Especially not in English; that relic of Oppression, the Patriarchy and Western Civ. in general.Or added this to the trunk/hatch lid:
View attachment 52422
Ross, I can't ID what computer it is using but your stories(I believe) lead me to get this far today.(I'm still using start bump switch remote) I am out of Purgatory but not yet in the Promised Land of correct function with the key........... This is an 06 2.2 N/A. I believe all S/C or T/C used a different(Bosch?) computer than their base cousins? I have been away from my car for about a year. At this time I am also trying to get several buildings built on our new to us property. So GOB-BALT tinkering has been strictly curtailed! Much of my tinkering time has been consumed just remembering what I had done up to my departure last June!........... I had dumped the ABS module and put a standard Cobalt prop valve in it's place. Yesterday I was under the hood and as usual I was ignoring that huge plug that goes on the ABS computer, now just lyin' there. Last night it dawned on me, no ABS computer, no H/S LAN. I located that(nearly cast off) computer today and Viola! It no longer stops running after 3 seconds.(I believe if I jumper{solder and insulate} the brown wire pairs to their mates that will properly by-pass that computer on the H/S LAN and I can leave that computer in the scrap pile.)......... It still must be cranked with my starter bump switch, BUT it stays running until I turn the key off or I manage to stall it........... Shifter needs further fettling to zero in on proper function. Fortunately I built in plenty of adjustment........I have constructed the coolant transfer pipes, they now run in the tunnel where exhaust formerly ran. I am digging through my castoff rad hoses from Cobalts and 1500 trucks. The upper hose from a 1500 V8 is a long snakey thing with a near U turn, very handy! I am hoping that if all my donor hoses came from just a few sources replacing them will be a little easier......... Next, to solo bleed brakes and clutch. Rear brake lines are currently plugged closed. I get actual clutch release but it is near the floor. I was bleeding it using a broom handle duct taped to the clutch pedal to push with my left hand as I operated the bleed screw. I am pleased I got any function at all. (A Sasqwatch or a Wookie probably could have reclined the seat all the way back and operated the pedal and bleed screw solo. I found I am lacking about 10" in overall length + reach for that job.)............All rear lighting is still just a jumble of cut ends, many splices to do. And a couple of grounds as well! On the front I show no lights yet, but test lamp probing will tell........I still have some work to do to secure the fuel tank to the mounting frame I created out of 1" square stock under the hood. and must construct a filler neck too! Getting Closer!I can run my 2006 LSJ using a starter bump switch, as long as the key is in the run position.
Not sure if you have the P12 ECU. Maybe unplugging the MAF sensor will let it run in VE (volumetric efficiency) mode.
In front of the shop is where I can wash it off, it is covered with dust, dirt, tree scum and pine needles wedged in every crevice. Sadly it likely appears to be nothing special, a black Cobalt on a used car lot. {Currently it looks like a black Cobalt abandoned behind a garage.} I am hoping it's driving experience will outshine it's seemingly mundane appearance.And when do we get to see some updated pics of this Frankenstein's beast - Doctor?
That shifter is from a Cavalier. I chopped the. bottom of the lever off below the ball and welded a U on the shift lever equal height above the ball. The left/ right lever that formerly pointed down I cut off below the pivot and welded it above its original position. I cut the original body down and welded to a flat plate. I can swap special pix easier on txt. DM if you want more info.I'm very puzzled by that shifter pic.
That shifter is from a Cavalier. I chopped the. bottom of the lever off below the ball and welded a U on the shift lever equal height above the ball. The left/ right lever that formerly pointed down I cut off below the pivot and welded it above its original position. I cut the original body down and welded to a flat plate. I can swap special pix easier on txt. DM if you want more info.
My inspiration for this shifter is the DF one and pix of the last two MR2 shifter designs. They are very similar designs, the shifter ball is virtually on the floor and the L/R lever is now pointing up by the driver's leg(instead of down. I wished I could have just flipped the L shaped lever over but cut/ weld proved simpler). This design of mine is still teething. Sometimes it doesn't want to find 1st? But snicks into second. I still have inconsistent T/O bearing action that could be part of the problem as well. I am giving the clutch it's own reservoir from a 98 Camaro, and an automatic type brake master/res. Engine runs are short because I have yet to connect the cooling plumbing. Suspending the fuel tank in it's "little frame" up front, is a hold up; I want to complete that before I run the coolant hoses over and around the fuel tank.All good, thanks for clearing it up! Lol