V1 Anks329 - Extended City - '07 LS - #190 REGISTERED

[Anks329]

Made some progress today. Stripped out the insides nicely, almost got all the wiring harness freed in there. Best of all, I got the axle buts off! Putting the tires back did the trick along with a long breaker bar. Unfortunately, I’ve got on stubborn subframe bolt that I might need to cut off. Any thoughts on where to source a replacement bolt?

 

[Murcielago311]

Got mine on eBay. $12 shipped.

 

[Anks329]

Good to know, thanks! Might need to eBay a subframe as well. Sometimes you need a break before you cut something that didn’t intend to

 

[Lonny]

You only reuse two of the big subframe bolts.

 

[Anks329]

Thanks Lonny! Even better, now I don’t feel bad cutting the bolt this much

 

[Anks329]

Engine is out! Made good progress today finally getting the subframe and engine out.

In the process of getting the subframe out, I had to use the angle grinder to get a bolt off, and I scored the subframe a little. Is this ok, or should I look into replacing the subframe?

 

[Ross]

It is a beefy chunk of metal made for a car twice the weight of a Goblin. Just my 2 cents, but it looks like you scratched it a little. Paint it.

 

[Anks329]

It is a beefy chunk of metal made for a car twice the weight of a Goblin. Just my 2 cents, but it looks like you scratched it a little. Paint it.

Thanks, was planning on using a Rust Oleum underbody spray on the subframe and the control arms.

 

[Waterdriver]

Clean the bolt head area to see how deep that score is that goes across the hole.
If it's over half the thickness of the steel, you might consider options.

Pick-n-Pull or its equivalent is about $30-$40. If you have a welder, weld a bead along it and grind it down to dimensions.
The other scrapes, hit it with a flapper disc and paint.

 

[Anks329]

Clean the bolt head area to see how deep that score is that goes across the hole.
If it's over half the thickness of the steel, you might consider options.

Pick-n-Pull or its equivalent is about $30-$40. If you have a welder, weld a bead along it and grind it down to dimensions.
The other scrapes, hit it with a flapper disc and paint.

Cleaning it up, it's just under half the thickness. Might err on the side of caution and replace it anyway.

 

[Karter2026]

Cleaning it up, it's just under half the thickness. Might err on the side of caution and replace it anyway.

it is Right Rear correct?

I would run a bead on it smooth it out and send it. I do not even think it would be a problem the way it is since it has a tube running inside it to keep it from crushing and the bolt has a flange washer already made in to it.

 

[Anks329]

it is Right Rear correct?

I would run a bead on it smooth it out and send it. I do not even think it would be a problem the way it is since it has a tube running inside it to keep it from crushing and the bolt has a flange washer already made in to it.

Yup, rear right side. The other three bolts were "easy" to get out. This one just refused to budge. And even after cutting the head off, we had to pry it off the rest of the body to get it free.

So, looks like my options are to:

1. clean and paint it up
2. weld a bead on it, sand it even and paint it
3. replace it from either a pick-n-pull (do I really want to try to remove another one of these??) or buy it from a yard and have it shipped to me.

 

[Ark :D]

I'd go option 2 if feasible. If not, option 1 would be sufficient. IMO.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Option 2 if you have access to a welder or someone else can do it for you. Won't take much, be careful not to burn through the frame. There does not seem to be a reason to replace the subframe if it is not bent or rusted through.

 

[Anks329]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I don't have a welder (Harbor Freight trip ? ), but I did find a metal filler option that might work: https://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-Two-1-oz-Twin-Tube-Cold-Weld-8265-s/100189012 I'm going to research a little more about this route, but might try this and see if this works.

 

[Briann1177]

If you're looking to fill it in for cosmetic reasons, then that should work. If you're hoping it will make it stronger, I think it will add zero strength.

 

[Anks329]

Finally made some more progress tonight and got the dashboard and wiring harness out.

next task is getting the fuel pump out and then get rid of the shell!

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Nothing like the smell of a gutted donor with all of the interesting odors that kinda tell a story...

 

[Anks329]

Donor is 95% stripped and out of the garage! Need to finish up with the dash and have someone pick up the shell.

can’t wait for the frame to show up in a few weeks

 

[JBINTX]

Looking good Anks329!
You might want to save some of the trunk carpeting / underlay. Makes really nice mat to protect things when working on surfaces.
If that is still the rubber hose from the brake booster, you will want to keep that.