V1 BAustin's Extended Track - 06 SS/SC Donor - #157 Registered

[baustin]

Disassembly of my donor has begun and I figure I should start up a build log.
76205 miles on the odometer when I got it (not able to drive due to damage) into my garage.

Placed my order for the DF kit car on 5/8. I think chassis #157 is scheduled for me. Definitely interested in some of the other options that aren't built into the online ordering: flat tow bar, parking brake setup. Also curious about the rear wing options.

I've chosen the extended version because I plan on having the seats in the normal/short distance since I'm only 5'10" and can have a box for items needed when away from the garage behind the seats.

Haven't decided on colors yet but I have an orange Tacoma and my wife's car is a dark gray Jetta Sportwagen. Not looking to duplicate the colors we already have.

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

Congrats on the order! Whats your location? Great miles for the build, how much was your donor?

 

[baustin]

I'm just north of Raleigh, NC.

Got the donor through Copart. Winning bid was $1450, add copart fees, and broker fees because it was in South Carolina and it was $2188. They offered a transport fee of just $520 to my driveway, or I could pick it up by way of having a tow company take it from copart and then I load it on a trailer nearby. I took up the $520 transportation fee so in total it's cost me $2708 but I think the combo of not fighting any rust and such low miles is worth it for my starting point.

 

[baustin]

Progress is being made. So far I've followed the first 4 build videos but haven't quite finished unplugged the harnesses to be ready to drop the engine out. I've already made progress on the interior though, opening things up and removing a bunch. One of the parking brake cables actually was broken right at the handbrake end.

When I removed the fuse box I noticed the upper transmission mount is no longer whole, not the bushing failing, the metal is missing an entire corner. I can also see the mating bracket to the mount is broken clean in at least 2 places. I did pressure wash the engine after getting the car, and have drained a good it of the gear oil out of the transmission in prep steps, no water was coming out (but the magnetic plug was maxed out with gunk) which I think means the transmission casing isn't cracked. I'm hoping that what I'm seeing is that the GM trans mount is busted and the adapter bracket GM put on the F35 to adapt the SAAB design to fit the GM space is busted but nothing else (I'm not sure if this is an accurate assumption but I'll know more when I drop the engine. Maybe I'll be able to do that in the coming week.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Don't worry about the motor mount, it is not used in the Goblin. The spacer/adapter is used to connect the trans to the Goblin frame. If this is damage or broken, it will need to be replaced.

Looks like you are making good progress with the donor teardown. Make sure you label each plug as you remove it to make sure you know where it came from. This will become very important once you start working on the wiring harness.

 

[baustin]

I'm labeling all the plugs as I unplug them, that's actually why I stopped today, I ran out of label on the spool.

https://www.gmpartsonline.net/auto-...ine/engine-cat/engine-and-trans-mounting-scat
Looks like the adapter bracket (item 6 on this website) would be $40 after shipping for a new one, probably can get it cheaper at a local dealer to avoid double cost due to shipping. I hope that I can just replace that adapter bracket and the rest is still solid.

 

[baustin]

More progress happened this evening. Engine is fully removed from the Cobalt!

Also, confirmed the damage to the transmission mount adapter didn't carry through to the transmission itself, so that'll be an easy 1 part replacement. I did notice the shift cable mount was overtightened at some point and it has cracked out the bottom of the blind screw hole, looks like the screw hole has plenty of meat though so it should be fine to not touch (could pull the fragments and use longer bolt with nut if needed). Its nice to have full access to the engine now, I've never actually pulled an engine before.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Congrats on your first engine pull. Not as hard as it seems, if you have the right instructions to follow?
Other than the damaged mount spacer and over tightening looks like you have a great drivetrain for your donor.

 

[baustin]

Yeah the instructions are great. Really things are looking good on the donor parts.

Also having harbor freight within a short drive to the city is helpful...

 

[baustin]

I'll be replacing the output shafts for the f35 transmission I've got since 1 was broken. It looks like the output shaft seal (the one for the passenger side output at the transmission case) could use being replaced as well. Any other thoughts on what I should plan to replace when changing the CV half shafts?

 

[ncgoblin]

Congrats let us know if you have any SS/SC questions a lot of us with the charger builds.

 

[baustin]

Dash is out. Harnesses are out. I'm all the way through the 6th build video.

I don't want to know how a polident package and a kitchen knife ended up below the trunk corner carpet below the factory subwoofer location... Or why the trunk release wires were cut and the lock had evidence of being tampered with to break into the trunk, and likely pieces of the original back window were under the back seat...

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

I found some interesting things in my donor. A crossbow arrow, condoms (all in packaging), and $3.58 in change - along with the expected fast food wrappers, spilled drinks and food crumbs. The car was registered to a woman in El Paso, go figure.

 

[baustin]

I've been looking into what wheels/tires I want to run. I'm leaning towards 205/50R15 on the front, 245/40R17 on the rear. when I looked at the wheels available in 4x100 that would fit this setup, the pickings aren't exactly what I'm looking for. I know the SS/SC comes with 5x110 hubs and can easily swap to 4x100 hubs from the base models but I'm thinking I'll get spacers to get into the common 5x114.3 wheels:

https://wheeladaptersusa.com/produc...110-to-5x114-1-25-inch-thick-5-x-110-to-5x4-5

General consensus seems to be that stock lug length requires either the lugs to be trimmed or the wheels have clearance on the face for the stud tip on most vehicles when using 1" spacers (I have 1" spacers on my truck too but the stock wheels have the clearance required). The link above looks like my easy way to have a huge selection of wheels since it's 1/25" thick spacers/adapters to 5x114.3.

 

[Ross]

I wouldn't recommend those, as they use lug centric centering instead of hub centric centering.
Once you know what wheels you are running, you can order hub centric spacers.
Here is my experience with spacers.

 

[baustin]

Awesome suggestion. I didn't run across their website when searching earlier. I should add that the spacers I have on my truck are BORA hub centric (same company). I much prefer the hub centric but wasn't seeing the custom spec like they offer. I already know first hand the good quality that they make.

Ross, I'll be borrowing you base measurements since I don't have 2006 SS/SC wheels that were on my donor, it had aftermarket cheap wheels with plastic hub adapters that were 1/8" thick.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Wheel spacer experience: I've had 1 inch spacers on my Jeep Rubicon with the stock Moab wheels 9and it is my daily driver) for the past 10 years. They are hub centric - don't recall what brand - but have never had a problem with them and they have been thoroughly abused offroad many, many times.

 

[baustin]

Current thoughts on wheel/tire setup for me is:
Enkei VR5 in Hyper Black
Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R tires
front: 205/50R16 (7" wide wheel)
rear: 235/45R17 (8" wide wheel)
wheel hub adapters from Motorsport Tech, 5x110 to 5x114.3 with matching hub diameters to Cobalt inside and Enkei VR5 outside, M12x1.5 lugs

Haven't calculated the adapter thickness but each of those wheel sizes have 2 offsets for me to choose from and I won't be reusing the stock struts (1 is broken entirely) but will be at least thick enough to clear the original studs.

 

[baustin]

Probably should add something about intended use. I don't plan on treating this as a track car or exotic luxury car. I want to drive to/from work on decent weather days and hopefully have some fun with it around home or weekend trips (mountains or near the coast). I've never done autocross or track days, while they are interesting I don't know that I'd save the time to do that for the next few years.

Basically this is a better option than the motorcycle I (and my wife) can't let myself drive.

 

[Karter2026]

Current thoughts on wheel/tire setup for me is:
Enkei VR5 in Hyper Black
Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R tires
front: 205/50R16 (7" wide wheel)
rear: 235/45R17 (8" wide wheel)
wheel hub adapters from Motorsport Tech, 5x110 to 5x114.3 with matching hub diameters to Cobalt inside and Enkei VR5 outside, M12x1.5 lugs

That is close to what I have on mine but all 4x100 Only clearance issue I had was for the fenders.
http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/tires-and-wheels-list.959/