V2 Blizzard25 Goblin V2 (#19) - 2015 Golf GTI 2.0T DSG

[Ross]

Is that throttle body connector one of these listed on Ebay?
I know that on the V1 Cobalt engines, I can get those parts from Mouser, but I have to get the exact connector name, either from AllData, or sometimes you can find it in micro printing on the old plastic connector.

 

[Blizzard25]

Is that throttle body connector one of these listed on Ebay?
I know that on the V1 Cobalt engines, I can get those parts from Mouser, but I have to get the exact connector name, either from AllData, or sometimes you can find it in micro printing on the old plastic connector.

It looks extremely similar to this one in that link, 6 pin connector. Might even be the same one, but good call on checking the print on the plastic.

 

[Markm]

I’ve had pretty good luck finding pigtails at pigtails.com as far as vw they are foreign to me pun intended

 

[Blizzard25]

Day 3. I finally made it past all the broken connectors.

Also here's a fun photo with more context than meets the eye:
1) The coolant is either rusty or the salvage yard combined some common green coolant and the car had G12 VW coolant already in it because green + red = brown.
2) Yes that's a glass bowl for baking stuff i put that in. I couldn't find the fluid pan, and instead of looking for it, i went into the kitchen and got some bowls to cook with. Mistakes were made. My wife wasn't happy about it.
3) I can't be the only one that puts sockets back on the packaging they came in. Those things are so convenient for keeping them not rolling around in a cheap tool box

 

[Blizzard25]

A couple of thoughts/notes:

The V2 reuses the factory airbox, and mine was partially broken. I'm assuming an aftermarket one would work that uses the same mounting points? I'm probably going to wait to order that until i see the actual frame.

Kind of a similar question for the intercooler piping, except my current piping is fine, I just want to get aftermarket piping for aesthetic purposes. If it follows the same routing would it likely be fine?

I was kind of hoping a good cleaning would solve my dirty coolant reservoir problem, but I'll just order another one, it's absolutely disgusting. $30 isn't much and I'm not spending another second smelling whatever crawled in there and died.

The laundry list of things I want to replace is adding up enough where I'm starting to wonder if i shouldn't have just bought all the pieces individually instead of buying a salvage car lol hindsight is 20/20 i guess. And I still have a lot to sell off the car remaining.

 

[MeltedSolid]

All of the pictures I've seen of the prototype Goblin V2s don't use the factory airbox, I assume they're just saying the factory one will be compatible. Mine also got smashed up, so I'm probably going to do something custom. The parts list hasn't been updated since January, so I wouldn't be surprised if there's some refinement/updates still to go.

 

[aaronc7]

Intercooler setup is still a question I have too... the optional air to water they show on the main page might be what I do, looks nice and clean option. Otherwise maybe an air to air with one of the sidepods or something in the rear?

I seriously thought about buying motor/trans and other stuff separately, but I was afraid the little odds and ends would really start to add up and get frustrating.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

In a mid-engine setup, the A2W system is a more logical option. The heat exchanger(s) can be mounted anywhere there is cool air flow, which many times is not close to the engine, in the front or sides of the chassis. It keeps the charge air flow path shorter for less turbo lag and helps reduce the pressure drop through the piping. A properly sized intercooler and heat exchanger can match the cooling efficiency and will keep the IAT close to what an A2A system can achieve - considering your somewhat limited options for mounting the A2A intercooler in the Goblin frame. Just my opinion.

 

[Blizzard25]

Intercooler setup is still a question I have too... the optional air to water they show on the main page might be what I do, looks nice and clean option. Otherwise maybe an air to air with one of the sidepods or something in the rear?

I seriously thought about buying motor/trans and other stuff separately, but I was afraid the little odds and ends would really start to add up and get frustrating.

Yeah a brand new 0 mile long block for the GTI is $4000 with SAI removed, DSG (which is the tran i wanted) super cheap like $500, i can basically get every control module in the car for free, I really just didn't know the extent of any of the other parts I'd need so i opted with the "safer" route. Looking at the parts list now I kind of regret that decision but it's still all working out how I want in the end, just slightly more expensive

 

[Blizzard25]

So I went ahead and bit the bullet and purchased an MPI kit with 925cc injectors. I thought I was sticking with DI only, but the allure of using this larger turbo I have got to me. Maybe I can find something else useful for this IS38 i just bought. I've been toying around with keeping the good parts of the GTI and building it as a first car for my son when he gets older.

Anyway not too many parts left to buy, I've added some after this purchase.
New coolant reservoir
IC piping?
LPFP (Probably just going to purchase APR's)
HPFP internal upgrade (not 100% necessary I don't think but cheap enough where I might as well)
Wheels and tires
Throttle pigtail

I'm trying really hard to keep my "While it's out" syndrome in check here.

 

[Blizzard25]

I'm about to take this car out back and Ole Yeller it like the previous owner should have done. Tried taking off the nut to get the coil packs off, barely touched it and the lead just shattered. Add one more thing to the purchase list. Anything else on the harness breaks and i'll just add a new wiring harness to the list and just cut through it. I see a lot of pretty brittle pieces anyway.

Edit: Purchased coil grounding kit. I could have just redone the one but i have a feeling i just got lucky on the others and the grounding studs were pretty rusty anyway.

 

[Blizzard25]

Managed to find just the throttle connector I needed, so that was a good win. OE part too. In case anyone has this very one off problem and breaks their throttle connector, here's where i got it. https://www.shopdap.com/4h0-973-713.html

 

[Ghostknife]

Those grounds or notorious for breaking off, I ended up cutting off all the ends and running new wires to a chassis ground. Also go with the OEM coil packs, aftermarket are hit/miss from wat I've read.

 

[Ghostknife]

Also, if you decided not to use that IS38, pm me. I'll take it off your hands for my daily driver!

 

[Blizzard25]

Those grounds or notorious for breaking off, I ended up cutting off all the ends and running new wires to a chassis ground. Also go with the OEM coil packs, aftermarket are hit/miss from wat I've read.

I already have a stuff to rewire the ground in the mail, I didn't have anything at home unfortunately I don't do a ton of wiring jobs. I did have the thought that I don't know where the grounding points are on the goblin so I might not test this in vehicle so I don't waste cutting the wire and risk cutting it too short though. If the coil packs end up being a miss I'll move back to OEM, they're pretty inexpensive and I also got them half off. Cylinder 1 and 4 coils were struggling so those absolutely needed to be replaced, I just figured I'd replace all 4 since I was doing 2 already.

I'll let you know about the turbo

 

[Blizzard25]

Also on the way in the mail: Steel oil pan (because i have my doubts that the plastic pan will survive long in a goblin, but even if it will, cheap "upgrade"), throttle pigtail and coolant reservoir

 

[Ghostknife]

Good call on the steel oil pan! Its on my list of things to do come next oil change.

 

[Blizzard25]

Another win for the night, found a new, still in the shipping box ethanol sensor (it was supposed to go on a Subaru...that's a story for another time) so there's some money saved. And a bunch of braided line that for the life of me I have no idea why it's in my garage.

For the ethanol content analyzer, I'm going to reuse an old design I have and make my own. Not for cost saving but just because, idk why not. I do also have a CAN gateway board I designed which i MIGHT try to integrate, kind of depends on how the rest of the integration goes. I actually have a few extra gateway boards if anyone ever gets curious and wants to mess with it, I won't charge you anything for it. I just don't have any enclosure.

 

[Blizzard25]

I ran the grounds to the chassis so all good there, but I'm fairly certain the auction ran this thing with low oil because there's a heavy mismatch between commanded exhaust cam and actual exhaust cam timing on crank, and it just barely starts. Getting some seepage from the valve cover. I noticed oil seepage on the pan when it arrived but i thought it was just from the pan, now running it up it looks like it's from the cover. Might be timing chain related, might be cam or cam sensor related. But now yet again i feel like i can't pull the engine from the vehicle until i figure it out.

$4k for a brand new long block. I REALLY wish I would have found that full parts list before buying this car at this point, but that's just my current frustration talking lol

 

[Blizzard25]

Alright quick cam sensor swap and everything appears normal again. No codes, no weird starts....I'm gonna pull this engine before something else happens lol the last week has been less Goblin build, more VW car repair. Onto the good stuff.