V1 ccgillett's Track Goblin - '08 SS/TC

[ccgillett]

Is this car owned by a forum member?

Saw it on this YouTube video, and I thought the side pods were pretty cool.

 

[Ross]

Yes. Kurbkilla

 

[ccgillett]

Ooooook, aside from test fitting the intercooler and test fitting the 3 piece tunnel cover, the car itself hasn't been touched since first engine start. Tonight I decided to do some tidying up to and decided to start it first just to be cautious. I got the weird behavior in this video clip. Any suggestions as to what might be going wrong? I checked seating of all plugs and connectors on the BCM and the engine fuse box, and the battery was fully charged and checked prior to the test. Ugh...

 

[Rttoys]

Low battery?

 

[ccgillett]

Low battery?

Fully charged per my Battery Tender, but if nothing else I'll get it tested.

 

[Rttoys]

Ya. Test load. My old CJ7 on the tender showing 12.4v, wouldn’t crank. Put a load tester on it and dropped to 2v with load.

 

[Robinjo]

My guess would be ground or low battery as well....

 

[Gtstorey]

Check battery voltage while trying to start if that noise is the motor turning over very slowly while trying to start.

 

[Joebob]

You are missing some intake tube to TB, are all sensors plugged in like MAF and such?

 

[ccgillett]

Confirmed a bad battery on the battery load tester at AutoZone. The battery came with the chassis when I bought everything. Manufacture date 11/2013, so not surprising.

Installed new battery and it cranked right away. Didn't want to fire until I removed the MAF sensor (I had started the turbo plumbing but not done). In raw mode like that it fired on the first try to a rough idle, i.e. what is was doing before.

Sigh of relief. Thanks for the sanity check and for indulging my panic...

Onward to intercooler plumbing...

 

[ccgillett]

Ok, I'm baaaaaaack. It's been a long hard time spent dealing with a long hard time, but I should be able to make progress on the car again, at least for a few weeks. I got the garage/shop neatened up, laid out all my parts, got the tools all reorganized, and ready to go again...

I got the induction system mocked up, and it looks like getting the A2W hose lines into the tunnel along with the shifter cables and wiring harness is not going to work. Has anybody run those hoses/piping out side the tunnel? If so I'd love to see a picture or 3. I was considering putting them into a PVC tube running alongside the tunnel if I can do so without buggering up the seat mounting.

Should the tunnel cap (either the original single piece or the revised multi-piece) fit without issue? I went to do a test fit and it want to readily slide over the top of the tunnel. That's all sturdy metal and isn't going to bend or move easily.

I am also in front tie rod end hell to the point that I'm going to make a video about it lol. But the basic question is, if the rubber boot at the bottom of the stud is completely crushed down to allow the stud to clear the top of the new (thicker) control arms, is that a problem?

 

[Ark :D]

Welcome back.

The only answer I can give you with certainty is, everything should fit in the tunnel. It's tight, but it should all fit without having to move anything to a different conduit.

 

[comegetjoe]

Heres a pic from last season and the only picture I can find of my tunnel I just put my ebrake and tunnel on and let me tell you, it's all a tight fit back there. Best advice I can say is lay everything out in a way where it sits naturally. I laid out my harness on the passenger side, rigid pipes on the drivers, RTV on the things coming up from the bottom to prevent chafing. Rivnuts for the tunnel cap instead of the rivets.

 

[ccgillett]

Heres a pic from last season and the only picture I can find of my tunnel I just put my ebrake and tunnel on and let me tell you, it's all a tight fit back there. Best advice I can say is lay everything out in a way where it sits naturally. I laid out my harness on the passenger side, rigid pipes on the drivers, RTV on the things coming up from the bottom to prevent chafing. Rivnuts for the tunnel cap instead of the rivets.

View attachment 52192

Did your cap go easily over the top of the tunnel walls? Both caps I have do not fit at all.

 

[comegetjoe]

Did your cap go easily over the top of the tunnel walls? Both caps I have do not fit at all.

Mine required some persuasion, especially with the extra bit from the rivnut protruding out. I also had to drill out slightly larger on most of the cap holes to fit thr screws and in general fitment. It wasn't a lot, but it had to be done.

 

[ccgillett]

Thanks @comegetjoe , that gives me some confidence as I look over my collection of pry bars and mallets.....

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Is the tunnel cap loose or does it not fit down over the sides? If it is too tight you can put a couple of 2x4 scrap pieces together and work them into the tunnel to widen it - it should be 3 inches width inside.

If it is too wide a rubber hammer and some judicious tapping can snug it back in (use the paired 2x4s to determine when it is the right width and the sides are straight). Or you can just crush it together like a bigfoot does!

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

An option would be to run the shifter cables on the top of the tunnel and not inside if more room is needed.

 

[comegetjoe]

Thanks @comegetjoe , that gives me some confidence as I look over my collection of pry bars and mallets.....

No hammers lol I only had to pull my open my hands and tap it down with my hand.

 

[Rttoys]

My original tunnel cap fit snug, but manageable. The new one was really tight in the back. Like almost bust out the sledge tight. I think I used a c clamp to squeeze the sides in while I put the cap on.