Cruise control

[Ross]

Disconnect the instrument panel connector.
tap into the red and grey wires... I think that is their colors, but they are the first 2 wires in the steering wheel connector.
With the Cruise enable switch on, the electrical meter should read ~8250 ohms.
With the Cruise enable switch on, then press the Resume+ button, the electrical meter should read 2890 ohms.
With the Cruise enable switch on, then press the Set- button, the electrical meter should read 1270 ohms.

 

[RobC76]

Disconnect the instrument panel connector.
tap into the red and grey wires... I think that is their colors, but they are the first 2 wires in the steering wheel connector.
With the Cruise enable switch on, the electrical meter should read ~8250 ohms.
With the Cruise enable switch on, then press the Resume+ button, the electrical meter should read 2890 ohms.
With the Cruise enable switch on, then press the Set- button, the electrical meter should read 1270 ohms.
View attachment 54100

Thank you
I’ll provide feedback.

 

[RobC76]

Okay... Findings below - tapping pink and grey wire on chassis side of resistor pack

Dash unplugged / ignition OFF / cruise ON = 2.16
resume = 1.456
set = .884

Dash plugged in / ignition OFF / cruise ON = 2.17
resume = 1.457
set = .885

Whenever ignition was turned on, dash plugged in or unplugged the result of all functions was out of limit (OL) on ohm meter which I think is odd.

Something interesting I found was the pink wire feeding the button panel had 12V when gray wire was unhooked to car harness and 9.57 when it was hooked. Just for the hell of it I tried a fresh power source of switched 12V and hooked up the tech 2. Everything started actuating normally in tech 2.
I'll drive it when I get home from work today and report back.

 

[Ross]

So you tapped the pink and grey wires... is that the same 2 wires that I thought were red and grey?
I looked on https://charm.li/ for the wiring diagram, and couldn't find it for your donor car... so I am guessing at wire colors based on the picture.

Are the numbers you measured in ohms? or kiloohms? 2.16 ohms is a long way from ~8250 ohms.
Dash unplugged / ignition OFF / cruise ON = 2.16
resume = 1.456
set = .884

 

[RobC76]

So you tapped the pink and grey wires... is that the same 2 wires that I thought were red and grey?
I looked on https://charm.li/ for the wiring diagram, and couldn't find it for your donor car... so I am guessing at wire colors based on the picture.

Are the numbers you measured in ohms? or kiloohms? 2.16 ohms is a long way from ~8250 ohms.
Dash unplugged / ignition OFF / cruise ON = 2.16
resume = 1.456
set = .884

correct on wire colors I believe it’s the ignition power wire (pink, red) and the cruise input to BCM wire (gray).
I had meter in ohms but it says auto
Tested a 6 ohm resistor and it reads correct.

 

[Ross]

Well the resistance measurements do show a difference when you press the resume+ button, so that switch is working.

I tried to isolate the the resume+ and set- buttons by unplugging the instrument panel, but I think we are not isolated, and are reading resistance from other things on the circuit. I need a wiring diagram to figure out what all is on this circuit.

Okay... Findings below

Something interesting I found was the pink wire feeding the button panel had 12V when gray wire was unhooked to car harness and 9.57 when it was hooked. Just for the hell of it I tried a fresh power source of switched 12V and hooked up the tech 2. Everything started actuating normally in tech 2.
I'll drive it when I get home from work today and report back.

That is interesting. The voltage dropping from 12V to 9.57V is not good. That circuit shouldn't be drawing the voltage down that much... visually inspect for loose connectors. Maybe a bad ground? Corroded fuse?

 

[RobC76]

I agree
I did drive it and cruise will not engage so even though the tech 2 is reading the switched operating the cruise is still not enabled. I’m going to see if I can get diagrams.

 

[RobC76]

Tech 2 still saying cruise inhibited even though all 3 functions are toggling in tech 2. That’s also interesting.

 

[RobC76]

Tech 2 still saying cruise inhibited even though all 3 functions are toggling in tech 2. That’s also interesting.

Does anyone have cruise working on an 08 or newer donor? Maybe the missing wheel speed sensors are the culprit? Just guessing
I’ll stop now lol

 

[Gtstorey]

Mine will engage and run for a while but eventually cuts out. I think there is protection built in for over boosting compared to stock that can’t be accessed with hpt.

 

[Markm]

My donor was an 07 LS and didn’t have cruise. I added the circuits to the harness and just before Goblinfest I installed the switch panel and stop lamp resistor and our cruise doesn’t work either. I plan on messing with it in given time but I think I have a lack of programming for cruise.

 

[comegetjoe]

Does anyone have cruise working on an 08 or newer donor? Maybe the missing wheel speed sensors are the culprit? Just guessing
I’ll stop now lol

I was just reading something.
Wasn't there something about a resistor in the 3rd brake light that needed wired in because if not it trips the cruise control into thinking you have the brakes on?
Sorry if this was already mentioned.

 

[RobC76]

I was just reading something.
Wasn't there something about a resistor in the 3rd brake light that needed wired in because if not it trips the cruise control into thinking you have the brakes on?
Sorry if this was already mentioned.

Post 75 and 78. Don't be sorry, I appreciate you trying to help me!
This is post 78:
On another note I’m wondering if variation of ohms on 3rd brake light is sensitive. I come up with 38.4 watts being the original 3rd brake light bulbs
Which equates to 4.266 ohms. I’m using a 6 ohm resistor direct to ground. Maybe it’s off just enough?

 

[RobC76]

Also, I should have wiring diagram tonight.
I'll put in on here when I get it.

 

[Rttoys]

.

I was just reading something.
Wasn't there something about a resistor in the 3rd brake light that needed wired in because if not it trips the cruise control into thinking you have the brakes on?
Sorry if this was already mentioned.

unfortunately there‘s a lot of differences between 05-06, 07, then 08-09. Like my 06 doesn’t need the third brake light to work, but the 07 does. Then, 08-09 is different yet. Hhmm. Which, hell have you tried recalibrating the brake switch? If it thinks the brakes are activated, it’ll kill cruise. Usually this turns on the brake lights or make them flicker, but I have seen stranger things.

 

[RobC76]

.

unfortunately there‘s a lot of differences between 05-06, 07, then 08-09. Like my 06 doesn’t need the third brake light to work, but the 07 does. Then, 08-09 is different yet. Hhmm. Which, hell have you tried recalibrating the brake switch? If it thinks the brakes are activated, it’ll kill cruise. Usually this turns on the brake lights or make them flicker, but I have seen stranger things.

good point i have calibrated the clutch switch but ill look into the brake switch. I kind of wrote that off because the brake lights work and I can see the pedal actuation on tech 2 as applied and applied. Anything is worth a shot.
Thanks

 

[RobC76]

Read something interesting. The BCM relies on signal from the ABS module for vehicle speed via the wheel speed sensors. If this is true, then obviously cruise will not be functional on 08 or newer Goblins. Hopefully someone debunks that theory. I'm looking into that with some sources at GM proving grounds. Hope that it's not the case. Also still waiting on schematic for cruise control which hopefully I have today.

 

[Gtstorey]

My cruise works from my 09 SS donor as stated above and it maintains speed long enough that I have no reason to think it needs the ABS module. It's a known issue on tuned LNF/e69 to have the cruise cut out. The fix for my issues my actually be in the available HPT tables I would just need to remove some of the "urgency" from some of the driver demand in the areas that causes the cruise to kick out. Mine runs for several minutes until I hit a hill that causes the ecm to call for a decent amount of power and it then seems to overshoot some sort of safety as it applies power to climb. The flatter the road the longer it will stay engaged.

Most of my driving is on backroads way to curvy to use cruise so I haven't tried to fix it. And I don't use cruise that much on my other vehicles anyway.

 

[RobC76]

shoots that theory so that's good news!

 

[RobC76]

Here is the cc diagrams