V1 Dan's #495 build (2006 SS/SC)

[Ross]

The F35 transaxle should come out with the driver's side axle on it, and even the passenger side, if you take the bolts out of the mid shaft bearing.
Have you looked for bolts coming from the engine side? I bet you missed one. Maybe that 1/8" plate is holding it back?

 

[Markm]

Didn’t forget the bolts in the oil pan ?

 

[TheAnesthetist]

I got it off. Turns out I did have all the bolts out. I put one of the engine-side bolts back in and gave it a good whack with a hammer to separate them.

Does this flywheel look good enough to leave it where it is? I've never done a clutch before so I'm not real sure what to look for. I'd like to not buy the expensive flywheel bolts if I can avoid it.

I'm a little curious about this moisture at the bottom but I'm assuming it snuck in there when I pressure washed the thing. I can't think of any reason there would be water in there. It's still wet but I've drained the coolant months ago.

 

[Robinjo]

That flywheel at least needs to be resurfaced ( machined). At that point, you could just get a lightweight one.

 

[Gtstorey]

Yes flywheel needs at least cleaning up. At that point it may just as cheap as resurfacing.

Unless you are pushing beyond stock power, I would probably just go ahead and throw in an inexpensive clutch from rockauto. Hard to tell from pictures

 

[TheAnesthetist]

I got a mid-priced clutch from O'Reilly. I don't plan to chase horsepower with the goblin. A lightweight flywheel is over $300. Not sure what resurfacing will cost, but it's gotta be a lot less than that.

 

[Gtstorey]

Mine cost $80 to resurface. I couldn’t have gotten a new one from rockauto for about that but always runs the risk of not fitting correctly.

 

[Robinjo]

About $100 for resurfacing but find a good machine shop. I really like my LW unit but if cost is a worry then having it machined is the cheapest option. Are you planning to replace the throw out bearing assembly?

The rust is most likely from cleaning like you suggested. Where it rusted would be the bottom where fluid would collect.

 

[TheAnesthetist]

About $100 for resurfacing but find a good machine shop. I really like my LW unit but if cost is a worry then having it machined is the cheapest option. Are you planning to replace the throw out bearing assembly?

The rust is most likely from cleaning like you suggested. Where it rusted would be the bottom where fluid would collect.

The clutch came with a new TOB. Since I'm on the hook for new flywheel bolts, I figure I'll go ahead and order a new pipe as well. I'll make some calls tomorrow and see if anyone local can resurface the flywheel. If it's ~$100, I might as well just order a new one instead. Thank you guys so much for all your advice!

 

[Ross]

Polaris bolts are the cheapest option for flywheel bolts that I know of.

 

[Markm]

You can reuse flywheel bolts. Clean the threads and put locktite on and retorque them

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

You can reuse flywheel bolts. Clean the threads and put locktite on and retorque them

Not necessarily. Many bolts on the Ecotec are torque to stretch and cannot be reused. The flywheel bolts are two pass torque, so it's quite possible they are stretched. If the flywheel is being removed new bolts are cheap insurance against the higher potential of failure for reused bolts.

 

[Markm]

Not necessarily. Many bolts on the Ecotec are torque to stretch and cannot be reused. The flywheel bolts are two pass torque, so it's quite possible they are stretched. If the flywheel is being removed new bolts are cheap insurance against the higher potential of failure for reused bolts.

Yes sir sometimes yes but the service manual doesn’t call for bolt replacement in this procedure. 39 ft lb of torque plus 25 degrees

 

[ah.b.normal]

Yes sir sometimes yes but the service manual doesn’t call for bolt replacement in this procedure. 39 ft lb of torque plus 25 degrees

Things that make me say, "Hmmmm?" Wishing I knew this answer for sure! Who is the ultimate source? Bolt makers would like to sell more bolts, not sure I can exactly trust their "opinion"! Mark?, is that the Factory Service Manual? Maybe only reusable on N/A Motors?? Looking for the GM thoughts. I hate the thought of screwing a clutch repair up.

 

[Gtstorey]

I'm pretty sure my service manual calls for bolt replacement. I'll try and remember to check this evening.

But GM calls for not reusing a lot of bolts that can't be anywhere near their yield point. And torque plus angle doesn't always mean torque to yield. I think GM says to not reuse bolts because they come with locktight pre applied and they don't have an approved locktight to apply in the field. I've reused the suspension/brake bolts on my Camaro many times that are called for as single use.

I sourced 10.9 metric bolts from Autozone fairly cheaply and ground the heads down thinner to clear. Works so far.

 

[Markm]

This is my info I used

 

[Gtstorey]

This is my info I used

I think it might be covered under the fastener notice.

 

[Markm]

I think it might be covered under the fastener notice.

Generic info. I made the screen smaller to condense the text otherwise it stretched all the way across the screen

 

[mike_sno]

I got it off. Turns out I did have all the bolts out. I put one of the engine-side bolts back in and gave it a good whack with a hammer to separate them.

Does this flywheel look good enough to leave it where it is? I've never done a clutch before so I'm not real sure what to look for. I'd like to not buy the expensive flywheel bolts if I can avoid it.

I'm a little curious about this moisture at the bottom but I'm assuming it snuck in there when I pressure washed the thing. I can't think of any reason there would be water in there. It's still wet but I've drained the coolant months ago.

I know I am late to the game. I was in a similar situation a few weeks ago. Swaped my motor. The flywheel did not look to well and the clutch was for sure due to be replaced. I was thinking first about buying a performance clutch, but then ended up buying a cheap clutch from Rockauto and give it a try. My flywheel also did not look great, but what I can tell so far, it's ok. The new clutch is great.

It's not to much work pulling the motor and replacing the clutch/ flywheel if you decide to give it a try as is. I think just from the pictures it's hard to tell if it needs to be replaced or not. It needs to be cleaned that I think is clear.

 

[Gtstorey]

2010 service manual doesn’t say anything about replacing flywheel bolts on 2.0L.
2.2&2.4 say to remove and discard flywheel bolts when removing flywheel.