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[Mirage775]

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[G Atsma]

I just got done reading the dozen or so posts you've made just late today, and I noticed you really don't like many aspects of how your Goblin was made or built.
My only question is- WHY THE HECK DID YOU BUY IT??

 

[Ross]

17" tires have more selection than 16" tires, and keeping all 4 the same size makes it easier to have the same brand & tread on all tires.
Do your current tires touch the A arms? If yes, then you probably want the DF steering rack limiters.
200TW is the minimum treadwear I would recommend. 100TW I like better, if you are willing to spend a bit more on rubber.
You can push in new wheel studs if you want. My Chevy Cobalt 5x110 studs are M12-1.5.

 

[Ark :D]

I bought it because it's the only one I could fit in comfortably... And the fact it's an auto, I can actually drive it. It was cheap enough, in my opinion, because I had been looking at buying a new one and it was upwards of $20-$25k before the donor! Donors around here are ridiculously priced, from the high markup of Corona... The cheapest/best Cobalt SC donor I found "locally" was $6000 and about an 8 hour round trip.... This one was completed and titled, so at the time, I thought that would be the better deal for me?

The only things I'm really changing on it are:

- Painting the hood
- Changing the wheels & tires (mostly because I don't like the mismatched sizes and they're hard as a rock/old)
- The seats are shot
- The steering wheel feels like it's about to snap in two
- Everyone said to boost it with a SC, so I'm looking to do that
- I kind of want a cage, but then again, I kind of don't want one?

I'm just making it the way I'd want it, since it looks like it got neglected after Rich sold it? I'm asking questions on here, because I just don't know about these cars, is that ok with you?

I'll never understand why other people get upset when someone else wants to change stuff on something they buy with their own money...

Don't worry, nobody's upset. We're just mostly self-built owners here, and as such, own cars that are built to our tastes. Change all you want!

I get the sense that you're a lot like me, a very vocal, social poster. Like me, you like peoples' input on things and like to reason through issues with the input from others. I've annoyed a few people in my time here, it happens. Just you do you.

*edit* I'll add that I don't think @G Atsma is annoyed, just curious about your decision-making process.

 

[Traé]

My wheels are 17x9 (+35) with a 255/40 tire. I have the stock 5x110 hubs with a 1" adapter to 5x114.3, with the adapter I was not rubbing the control arms at full lock but was uncomfortably close. I finally received the limiter kit and would recommend it for peace of mind if you are going wider. It is very easy to install even once the car is put together and is only $35.

 

[LLBenJ]

I'm running Motegi Racing MR147-CM7 - 17-8.5x110 wrapped in Toyo Proxes R1R 235/45ZR17.

I wanted/needed to run fenders so this drove sizing. I did need to add spacers in front to clear the fender mounts (3mm) and I'm running rack limiters.

I drive the car quite a bit, over 3k in a year, and the tires are wearing well. They start to fall apart on cold mornings (I think anything soft will do this) and when the car is pushed in the corners hard. I just street drive this thing but would definitely go to a 100 compound tire if I decided to compete in it. I was coming down a hill climb course a couple days ago and pushing 15-20mph corners at 50mph and I felt like the tires were starting to get to their limits (and I didn't want to put the car into the jersey barrier wall).

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Don't sweat it, we all have different personalities and varying ideas about how a Goblin (and any other vehicle) needs to built, modified and upgraded to satisfy our own wants ans needs. As @Ark :D stated, we all try to maintain a civil and a G-rated public forum. And some of us do have a good repoire with other builders - most of whom we may never have met in person. Hopefully you will find comradary with a few on the forum to share you ideas and frustrations with - best to do in the IM section for obvious reasons. Hang in there.

 

[Traé]

Cool! I've been seeing there are more wheel choices in the 5x114.3 bolt pattern than the 5x110 pattern.

I was also told that when the car is delivered from DF, the front hubs actually stick out further than the rear hubs? Thus needing a wider spacer on the rear, to get everything even/squared with the front?

I did just come in from turning the wheel lock to lock and, even though I couldn't see why you would ever want to ever turn that sharp, both of my skinny front tires make pretty good contact with the back of the UCA! Somebody has done it before, since the paint is missing on both sides... :/

So, the rim and tire sizes you chose are pretty much the same ones I was looking at I still haven't ordered any, as I'm going to keep looking

I found myself turning to full lock just cruising around the neighborhood (I’m not street legal yet), so I could see myself doing it in slow maneuvers frequently. Better to have it and not really have to think about it than constantly worrying about eating up the paint and your crispy new wheels!

DF also sells redrilled hubs but I read some recommendations for adapters so if a hub ever needed replaced it was readily available and not pricey. The adapter can also get your rear out to be even with the front if you desire.

 

[Robinjo]

Why stop at 100tw for Autocross when there are even stickier race only tires available, R-compounds.

 

[Rttoys]

If you want to build your own wheel, like I did, Forgestar is running a sale. The guys are very helpful to nail down the specs you want. The funny part is, without finders, you can basically do anything. This will also eliminate spacers.

my specs:
Forgestar F14
Semi concave
Matte black
17x9
65.1 hub
5x110
Backspace +10
Weigh 22-25#

Forgestar Custom Wheels - Bespoke Monoblock Wheels

Custom Finishes

www.forgestar.com

 

[devianteng]

My first tire setup was Conti ExtremeContact Sport 02's, which I thought were 200TW, but are actually 340TW. When I was first road legal and learning the car, they were okay but I quickly found the limit and learned I made a mistake going with those tires. But, I also learned that (for me), I went too big. I went with a 275/40-17 in the rear with 245/45-17 in the front, which is basically stock diameter on the LSJ cars. Without the steering rack kit, my 245/45-17s on Konig Hexaform 17x8 ET38 would rub the A Arms at full lock.

I then bought my "track" setup, which are Nankang AR-1's (100TW). 275/35-15 in the rear, 245/40-15 up front. Tire grip was SO much better, and have been running them on the street as well, never using the Contis anymore. However, the Nankangs are definitely too small for dedicated street tires.

The Conti's are 25.7" diameter, while the Nankang's are 22.6". This made a big difference in gearing, and I'm spinning 3k rpm in 5th doing 70mph. Not great for cruising. Plus I sit so low that I have to be careful on speed bumps, and curbs.

Knowing what I know now, I would like to have a square 17s wheel setup for the street, with a tire diameter around 24.5". 235/40-17 fits that bill. For track, I'm definitely sticking with a staggered 15s.

 

[LLBenJ]

I plan on auto crossing next year and becoming a better driver (hopefully). I'll pick up a set of the AR1s and see what they are all about!