• We've upgraded and reskinned the forum. Notice something off? Email us at [email protected] and we'll fix it.

V1 Dragon Motorsports 1.0 [Extended\Full-Cage\Double Door Bars] - [Frame #290] - SOLD

Desert Sasqwatch
To help stabilize the hitch and have a connection point for the chains, weld on a couple small thick metal plates to the sides of the tube and onto the subframe.
OM-11580.10-G_1024x1024.jpg
 
Jareth
I obviously did not learn the golden rule “label every bag hardware goes into” :confused:

Are these the correct bolts for mounting the engine from the top, with the longer one going on the transmission side with the spacers?

loarZp.jpg


.
 
Jareth
Welds May not be the prettiest welds but I’m grateful for one of my coworkers to drive out to my place yesterday.

I have some JB-Weld coming just to smooth out the imperfections of the surface.

GIODh0.jpg


LdIB7X.jpg
 
S
Welding a couple of D-rings or large chain links also will keep you out of trouble for safety chain mounting without having to scratch the finish wrapping chains around the subframe. That is unless you have the ability to fab a lower plate as pictured by Desert Sasqwatch above. Might want to consider a attachment point for trailer light wiring plug at this point unless you plan to use zip ties or screwed mounting.
 
Joebob
I obviously did not learn the golden rule “label every bag hardware goes into” :confused:

Are these the correct bolts for mounting the engine from the top, with the longer one going on the transmission side with the spacers?

loarZp.jpg


.
Those look right to me. I used grey bolts from somewhere I can't remember as I sold the rear seat crossbar and fasteners which I think is the source of the black ones. Either way, the spacers go between the transmission and the Goblin chassis. What I did was thread in the bolts on each side to ensure that there was enough thread engagement and did not bottom out in the castings. Both bad ideas to have.
IMG_1110.jpg
Short bolt passenger side
IMG_1111.jpg
long bolt driver side with spacer under green flange.

Joe
 
Jareth
Here is a video of the engine installed, should have recorded the whole process but was just checking what hardware did not bottom out and next thing I knew I was putting in all the bolts.


.
 
Jareth
When I look at the specs of that hitch it says for “off road only”, so I guses I can not risk using it. :confused:

.
 
Last edited:
Jareth
Removed this when I painted the engine and I masked off the mounting surface so well that I can not find where on the engine it mounted to?

What portion of engine should I look?


Di8fA9.jpg
 
Last edited:
Zoom Zoom
Removed this when I painted the engine and I masked off the mounting surface so well that I can not find where on the engine it mounted to?

What portion of engine should I look?

I suspect it is a block temperature sensor?

If looking from front of Goblin dose it mount to a boss just to the left oil check tube?

Di8fA9.jpg
Removed this when I painted the engine and I masked off the mounting surface so well that I can not find where on the engine it mounted to?

What portion of engine should I look?

I suspect it is a block temperature sensor?

Di8fA9.jpg
I think it’s called a knock sensor
 

Attachments

  • 4E39290B-D872-426B-A06E-CCD85DAF9A11.jpeg
    4E39290B-D872-426B-A06E-CCD85DAF9A11.jpeg
    285.8 KB · Views: 357
  • 094887FB-98F6-4EFA-A486-50810B9BF74B.jpeg
    094887FB-98F6-4EFA-A486-50810B9BF74B.jpeg
    344.9 KB · Views: 375
Desert Sasqwatch
All Ecotecs use 2 knock sensors. You will need to locate the other one. Did you label the engine harness? These have specific connections so the computer knows which sensor - and which 2 cylinders - a knock is being sensed. Don't think the computer will like them switched, but believe the engine will still operate.

For the photo, if that's the back corner of the head above the transmission, it's a camshaft sensor.
 
Jareth
All Ecotecs use 2 knock sensors. You will need to locate the other one. Did you label the engine harness? These have specific connections so the computer knows which sensor - and which 2 cylinders - a knock is being sensed. Don't think the computer will like them switched, but believe the engine will still operate.

For the photo, if that's the back corner of the head above the transmission, it's a camshaft sensor.

i found a replacement on Amazon for $15

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009LDROPG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

.
 
G
At some point they were installed in random directions from the factory. I don't know if there is a point that the factory started setting a particular position on the original motors. It probably doesn't matter on the LS anyway, unless you start adding boost and playing with ign timing.
 
Jareth
Checked every connector on the harness and there is only one that matches knock sensor connector. (All connectors are labeled)

WGVQOy.jpg


VuZQDt.jpg


u0J9Wl.jpg
 
Back
Top