• We've upgraded and reskinned the forum. Notice something off? Email us at [email protected] and we'll fix it.

Hi IAT

Peteht2002

Peteht2002

Member
Peteht2002
Ok here it goes lol. I have been through the forums and have a couple ideas but i figured i would start a thread to see if there is any updated info or new recomendations since most of the stuff i saw was a little old (but probably stilfan and it is pulling up. l viable)

I got the goblin last week and the old owner warned me that when cold there was a small leak in the HE but i have yet to find any leaking so i am avoiding that for now lol. When i picked it up, it was low so i did add some water to the resevoir.

When i go for drives my IAT gets crazzzzyyyyy hi. I dont even push it hard but its acting like i am driving nascar the way it goes up. within minutes i am 130-140 which isnt terrible (90 degree ambient) but it then starts to go up and settles 160-170. Yesterday i took it for the longest ride ive done, about 1 hour each way and it stayed at 170-180 and i was babying it the whole way. At one point i punched it to get on the highway and around some traffic and it went up to 200 and then came back down.

Current upgrades (according to builder). - ZZP hi flo pump (verified) - ZZP dual pass (not verified.

I am running the stock DF H/E and it is pulling up.

I am thinking about changing the pump out in case its week. and i want to install a larger H/E with secondary pump. But what scares me is that with the current setup i feel like i shoulnt be having these issues with daily driving.

what secondary H/E do you guys recommend? Do you think adding a secondary pump would be a good idea or maybe too much flow and then not cool properly?
 
Desert Sasqwatch
What is your Goblin, SC, TC? You should add that into your avatar title so the correct information can be provided.

Assuming you have a charged/boosted engine the intercooler system needs to be checked for fluid level, air pockets, and if the fluid pump is actually working before tearing into things or adding extra parts. Check fuse(s) for the pump and make sure it is moving fluid through the system. If the system has/had a leak, air can get into the system and will collect in the highest points in fluid circuit. Purging the air from these area(s) is important for the HEs to function properly.

Assuming the DF forward mounted HE - does it have the fan? Or NACA duct kit? Check to see if the hoses/pipes in the fluid circuit get warm - the inlet to the intercooler (external or laminova) should cooler and the outlet should be significantly warmer. The inlet to the HE should be warmer and the outlet should be cooler. Do these checks first and provide results back so you can get the help you may need.
 
Ross
Add a visual flow indicator, and you can check that the coolant is flowing.
If it isn't flowing, you get 1 or 2 hits before the IATs get hot.
If the coolant is flowing, then you also need air flowing thru it.
56802

This is my visual flow indicator, and I put the intercooler behind the driver's head. I don't need a fan on it, as it gets enough air here.
 
Peteht2002
Desert Sasqwatch said:
What is your Goblin, SC, TC? You should add that into your avatar title so the correct information can be provided.

Assuming you have a charged/boosted engine the intercooler system needs to be checked for fluid level, air pockets, and if the fluid pump is actually working before tearing into things or adding extra parts. Check fuse(s) for the pump and make sure it is moving fluid through the system. If the system has/had a leak, air can get into the system and will collect in the highest points in fluid circuit. Purging the air from these area(s) is important for the HEs to function properly.

Assuming the DF forward mounted HE - does it have the fan? Or NACA duct kit? Check to see if the hoses/pipes in the fluid circuit get warm - the inlet to the intercooler (external or laminova) should cooler and the outlet should be significantly warmer. The inlet to the HE should be warmer and the outlet should be cooler. Do these checks first and provide results back so you can get the help you may need.
Click to expand...
sorry didnt even realize i disnt put that 06 ss/sc
 
Peteht2002
I wont have a chance to mess with it until next weekend so i decided to just upgrade everything lol. Im in texas so i dont want it to be an issue when its 100+ Degrees out this summer. I ordered a New Heat Exchanger, New ZZP Pump (if mine is good i will just use this one as backup, New fuel pump assembly (got a CEL for incorrect voltage from it and it was acting up the other day so easier to just replace it, and im including a flow indicator in line with the new Heat Exchanger so i can see if its flowing.
 
Ross
Coincidence that your engine temp and your intake temp are the same?
I hope that the 2 coolant systems are independent. Otherwise they would have the same temps.
 
Peteht2002
Ross said:
Coincidence that your engine temp and your intake temp are the same?
I hope that the 2 coolant systems are independent. Otherwise they would have the same temps.
Click to expand...
It is a coincidence. They start different after around 10 min they settled around the same. But the Engine temp stays right at the same but right after that I punched the gas and my IAT shot to 200 then went back down to 170.

I'm also going to extend my intake 4 inches. I'm wondering if I'm pulling hot ass engine air and I found a hole in my header so I have exhaust blowing towards the engine. Found that today.
 
Peteht2002
Ross said:
Coincidence that your engine temp and your intake temp are the same?
I hope that the 2 coolant systems are independent. Otherwise they would have the same temps.
Click to expand...
I have the ZZP pump and ZZP dual pass but i havent verified that the pump is working. I am like 95% sure it is just because i had to add water to the HE resevoir and when i stopped driving it was orange and not clear indicating that it mixed. But with that being said i am still not 100% convinced. I did check the fuse and it is good. I went ahead and ordered a new pump tonight anyway. Im not fond of the location of the H/E so i ordered a much larger one and i am going to relocate it to the back with 2 fand and have them pull down and blow towards the engine. From all i have read with the airflow and aeros on the DF, thats my best bet for success.
 
David
Post something picture on your build log so we can see what you have. Like all the hose routing locations of everything.
 
Peteht2002
David said:
Post something picture on your build log so we can see what you have. Like all the hose routing locations of everything.
Click to expand...
I'm gonna take a bunch of pics next weekend when I disassemble. Following the ZZP site, everything appears to be plumbed correctly. If I was a betting man, id say the pump is failing and not working 100%. I'm just gonna replace everything just to be safe.
 
David
Peteht2002 said:
Right now its s smaller tank, but I have a much larger tank coming with a secondary pump and a couple gallons of engine ice
Click to expand...

I have the ZZP pump and its flowing through alot more then the standard setup. Im using two DF heat exchangers and a water/air intercooler. The zzp is pretty strong and flows good. I use distilled water and water wetter. There where multiple test done by project farm especially and water wetter took the win.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Peteht2002
V1 New to me #183
Replies
5
Views
336
Peteht2002
Peteht2002
Hayden2053
a few website errors?
Replies
0
Views
175
Hayden2053
Hayden2053
Peteht2002
Steering Quick Release (looking for info or one for sale.)
Replies
4
Views
237
Desert Sasqwatch
Desert Sasqwatch
PIERRE Perea
V1 4-Sale: Extended $31k/Trades
Replies
0
Views
471
PIERRE Perea
PIERRE Perea
Peteht2002
#183 Going back to Texas
Replies
0
Views
155
Peteht2002
Peteht2002
Back
Top