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V1 Josh's City Goblin - 10 XFE Donor

G
I would be much less concerned about those since they are not likely to be TTY and anything modern that doesn’t have torque plus angle likely isn’t critical. Have you checked the amount of threads in the holes? Any the bolts that have more thread length than hole will work.
Why are you not just reusing the original bolts? There isn’t anything in the manual about not reusing.
 
jirwin
Gtstorey said:
I would be much less concerned about those since they are not likely to be TTY and anything modern that doesn’t have torque plus angle likely isn’t critical. Have you checked the amount of threads in the holes? Any the bolts that have more thread length than hole will work.
Why are you not just reusing the original bolts? There isn’t anything in the manual about not reusing.
Click to expand...

Yeah the GM ones have enough, but the partial thread replacements did not. My manual has all 30 of the girdle bolts as "replace".
 

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I don’t see the asterisk on the perimeter bolts. My 2010 manual doesn’t have a table for replacement, it does it in the directions with the step. 2.0, 2.2 & 2,4 all done the same except the 2.0 bearing bolts go 77 degrees, and others are 70 degrees.
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Ross
18 ft lbs isn't much. If it was me, I would substitute bolts, as most bolts can hold that easily.
 
jirwin
@Gtstorey I guess you're technically right. I just assumed indented means its under the same rules. Idk. You're probably right.

@Ross are you saying you would use the all threads I sourced rather than reusing my existing?
 
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jirwin
Still waiting on the OTTP Main Bolt replacements in the mail, so I thought I'd do something more fun - calculating compression ration. Being that I am using flat top 10:1 pistons, the math is fairly easy. The hardest part is getting the volume of the combustion chamber. To do this, I measured by volume and weight of water. I coated the backside of the valves in vasoline, and then put a piece of plexiglass down on top of it (again sealed with vasoline) to seal the chamber. Using a liquid syringe and scale, I was able to get within 0.5 ml of the combustion chamber volume.

39437


39438


This isn't 100% accurate, but I would like to think its more of a "worse case scenario". All numbers have purposely leaned that direction before any calculations. Technically I should be using thick plexiglass so it doesn't bow in the middle. I didn't want to pay for it, so I just used what I had on hand. This likely upped my compression ratio calculations, but that's ok. As I said, worst case scenario.

Here are the results:
39436


The only magic constant I have is the stock head volume. I don't know this number because I didn't measure before the head was refreshed. The deck offset is how much was skimmed off the block. This is not 100% known, but should be around there. I'm fairly happy. I went with the 0.060" Cometic gasket. This tells me my compression ratio will be at or below the stock 10:1, which is what I was really aiming for.
 
jirwin
Starting to get on the "OTTP bad" bandwagon. Still don't have my replacement bolts. Called yesterday and today, got voicemail, and left a message asking for a status, tracking number, call back - anything. And got nothing. Its been a week since they said they would ship me 3 replacement main bolts. I live ~1.5 hours from them. It should not take more than a day (two tops) to get anything. I ordered something from ZZP (also 2 hours away) Monday morning, and got it Tuesday. Ridiculous.
 
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jirwin
I HAVE MY BOLTS!!

...but they didn't come from OTTP. I called them again, still voicemail.

Did some more digging. Turns out the OTTP bolts are 150mm whereas the stock are 145mm flange. Adding the included washer makes it nearly 145mm. So, I went to Mid State Bolt & Screw (local fastener company) and got 10 more bolts for $28 dollars. I should be able to make 20 good bolts out of 30 - I would hope. If not, they're open tomorrow and have hundreds of them.

LET THE BUILD BEGIN!
 
jirwin
Couple updates. Crank is off getting keyway extended. Hopefully will have it early next week.

I *did* end up getting 3 main bolts from OTTP. No callback or anything. Just got a shipping email and they showed up the next day.

While I wait I want to work on my piston/rods. What ring gaps are y'all running? I misplaced the documentation that came with the Wiseco. This is their chart and TBH I'm not sure which application to select. I assume I would want to fall on the larger side if anything for safety.
39688
 
jirwin
Gtstorey said:
Street Moderate Turbo... should be about right. Or you could back into it from the 2.0 SC stock number if anyone has it. Unless you are going to be spending extended times at high rpm.
Click to expand...

Extended time, no. I will have the capability of hitting 8K now though I think. Balance shaft delete, 82# valve springs, ATI.
 
Cnixon160
jirwin said:
Extended time, no. I will have the capability of hitting 8K now though I think. Balance shaft delete, 82# valve springs, ATI.
Click to expand...
@jirwin I can confirm that a completely stock XFE LAP 2.2 with the ZZP LE5 cams and neutral balance shafts, OTTP springs, DEKA 80 injectors, and an eBay turbo will happily turn 8100 rpm so you shouldn't have any issues
 
Cnixon160
If your planning to go the the LE5 cams you absolutely have to get the LE5 cam phasers as well, the dowels are located differently from the LAP phasers and will result in instant total destruction of the valvetrain
 
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