V1 Josh's City Goblin - 10 XFE Donor

[jirwin]

??? 2021 - Installed a BOSS audio marine (see waterproof) head unit and marine speakers. Custom 3D printed skeleton to replace the gauge cluster. Using an OBD2 speedometer mounted with a custom 3D printed mount.

 

[jirwin]

I think that's pretty much it. Working on installing the new DF shifter and a hinge for the front hood next. We'll see if I get around to updating this when I do that. Happy to answer any questions about mods and whatnot.

 

[jirwin]

Anything I should know before going to pick this up? I'm pretty sure its what it says it is. It has the same valve cover as my LAP. My understanding is this should be an LE5, which is just a bored and stroked LAP. It uses the same ECU and whatnot. Any way I can confirm it is what she says it is? Maybe that barcode on the side of the valve cover?

Facebook

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[Gtstorey]

Look up the vin in a vin decoder or the rpo codes from the trunk label.

 

[jirwin]

Well, the LE5 fell through so I've been exploring more options. All the LE5's I can find online are approaching the same mileage as my current LAP. It doesn't really make sense to me to spend $1-1.5k on a used LE5 just to make 20hp and have it be just as tired as my current motor. I was reading a bit of @Chris_WNC 's build thread and I was intrigued by the option of making a "hybrid" engine like he was with the LAP head on the LDK block. I had no idea the LNF/LDK was direct injected, so making a hybrid makes sense to keep the port injection. Too bad it didn't work out for him. It makes me scared to attempt it. I wonder if an LSJ short block would make any difference?

So I guess I'm back at building the LAP as the only option for more power. Trying to gather a parts list, and would welcome any help as I've never rebuilt an engine lol.

Parts List:

• Eagle Connecting Rods
• Weisco Pistons
• Timing chain rebuild kit
• New main bearings
• New head gasket
• ARP head studs (because why not?)
• Probably at least new valve springs, though I'm not sure what is standard practice for a rebuild. Valves too?
• Break in oil
• Assembly lube

I think that's all I would need, but like I said I really have no idea. Any input appreciated.

 

[Rauq]

I'm pretty sure @Chris_WNC either reached resolution or came close to it on the hybrid motor- the intake and exhaust cams were installed backwards. I'm not sure it's up and running on the LAP or LDK bottom end, but it didn't sound like the hybrid wouldn't have worked in the end.

What are your goals for an engine (re)build? Are you trying to increase reliability at stock power levels, or to make a reliable 300whp, or to make 500whp? Aside from timing chain tensioners and guide bolts, these motors aren't liable to give up the ghost due to mileage alone.

If you're fine with stock NA power levels, I'd honestly just say to leave the motor as-is.

If you're aiming for low 200s, throw an LSJ blower on your stock motor as-is. You can't put run an LSJ bottom end on your computer without some electronics work. I can't exactly speculate what all that would entail, but the crank reluctor is different on an LSJ.

At 275-350, you're looking at a turbo with either an early LE5 (forged) motor or an LDK short block. I'm not sure if LE5 cam position sensors and phasers are the same as LAP, which would tell you whether or not you could run the LE5 head. With an LDK, as you've pointed out, you'd have to run the LAP head.

Over 350, if you want reliability, you're looking at putting expensive parts into the bottom end. Your parts list is definitely on the right track.

 

[Chris_WNC]

@Rauq and @jirwin I'm back to the donor LAP bottom end for now. I want to get a running car so I can start registration process. I will try the hybrid again after I get everything buttoned down and paperwork/inspections done.

I really screwed up my experiment by having those dang cams backwards!

CHRIS

 

[jirwin]

I must have missed you talking about backwards cams @Chris_WNC

LE5 and LAP are the same minus bore and stroke as far as I know.

I'm looking for a reliable ~200-250. The blower is definitely the easiest, but according to ZZPs pages for both the super and turbo kit for the 08+ 2.2 (ie LAP), it doesn't handle much over 200

Turbo kit page

The 2.2 motor has relatively weak rods and pistons and should not be run with more than 5psi if your engine is stock. '08+ has the weakest rods, we do not recommend exceeding 230whp.

I thought the super kit page said the same before, but it doesn't look like it.

My engine has ~130k on it. Granted, I daily drove the Cobalt from 50k onward, and took care of it (full synthetic, all that). Idk. I just want a little more power and I'm leery about hitting over 200 and keeping it reliable without updating internals.

 

[jirwin]

I suppose it depends on if that 230 is at the wheels too. The stock numbers arencrank right? 155hp crank.

 

[jirwin]

Can y'all keep a secret?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Santa's New sleigh?

 

[Dsteinhorst]

I'll let you know how my LAP does. Aiming for 240HP. Should have it tuned in 3 weeks.

 

[jirwin]

I'll let you know how my LAP does. Aiming for 240HP. Should have it tuned in 3 weeks.
View attachment 31479

Are you doing a wideband?

 

[jirwin]

Installed (but didn't adjust) the new shifter. Used self tapping screws for the tunnel cap instead of rivets/rivnuts again.

Also added some more of that standing mat stuff from Home Depot under where the seats go. Should serve as cheap removable sound deadening.

 

[Dsteinhorst]

Funny you ask. I've been debating that for 6 weeks now. I was originally going to go with an AEM wideband, but it seems like they are having quality issues. Probably going to do the Autometer to match the boost gauge and last a while.

 

[jirwin]

I just ordered the OBD2 one on HPTuners site. I'll let ya know if it works

 

[jirwin]

How far would you guys go cleaning an LSJ intake manifold. I'm 2 cans of carb cleaner deep and there's still sludge in there I can't reach. The laminovas are now squeaky clean, but the rest has some sludge that I'm worried will get back on them once installed and ran. Is there a solvent or something I can soak it in that is safe for the aluminum?

 

[Ross]

Sure. Usually it is oil and grease, which soap and water can be used. Stronger de-greasers are also available, like purple degreaser.
A nylon brush, or even dremel wire brush to get in the corners. I have a small parts washer in the shop, with degreaser water, and a pump.

 

[jirwin]

Sure. Usually it is oil and grease, which soap and water can be used. Stronger de-greasers are also available, like purple degreaser.
A nylon brush, or even dremel wire brush to get in the corners. I have a small parts washer in the shop, with degreaser water, and a pump.

That parts cleaner is pretty nifty!

 

[jirwin]

5 Gallon bucket's too barely too small