V1 Lights + Fuel but no crank/no start

[TCSBuilds]

Whelp, I tore down the fuse box and reassembled that, triple checked all three grounds, reattached the power leads on the starter and still getting nothing.
Question, is the metal tip on the end of the starter solenoid plug supposed to mate to something on the inside of connector plug on the starter? I’m questioning if it’s indeed pushing a signal to start and has nothing on the receiving side on the new starter since it looks like there’s nothing on the inside of the plug from what I can tell.

 

[Robinjo]

Mine has a third, smaller post that a purple wire attaches to. Mine is a LSJ though.
Is your throttle responding to the pedal with key on?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Drop out the starter - 2 bolts - and get a better look. From your photo it doesn't look like there is a contract in the plug. Maybe it's bent? That would definitely not allow for a start.

 

[TCSBuilds]

Mine has a third, smaller post that a purple wire attaches to. Mine is a LSJ though.
Is your throttle responding to the pedal with key on?

Yup, throttle responds to the pedal when the car is on. Took out the starter and confirmed there is a small metal tip in the plug connector so we're clear there.

 

[Gtstorey]

Have you checked for voltage on the purple wire while trying to crank it?

Performing random checks is the hard way to troubleshoot electrical problems.

 

[Ross]

I'm with Goblinfanclub1234 and Gtstorey, waiting to hear the results of jumping the starter motor. Did that work?

Just supply 12V+ to the purple wire, when it is connected to the starter, and it should start cranking the engine.
Or if you are living life dangerously, and under the car, you can use a paper clip to go from the 12V+ post on the starter to the purple wire tab, it should start cranking.

 

[TCSBuilds]

I'm with Goblinfanclub1234 and GTStorey, waiting to hear the results of jumping the starter motor. Did that work?
View attachment 43486
Just supply 12V+ to the purple wire, when it is connected to the starter, and it should start cranking the engine.
Or if you are living life dangerously, and under the car, you can use a paper clip to go from the 12V+ post on the starter to the purple wire tab, it should start cranking.

I took a wire and tapped into the purple wire when connected to the starter and tried tapping the positive post above it and got nothing. Confirmed with a multimeter I'm getting 12v to the start terminal. Could it be a bad relay?

 

[Gtstorey]

Disconnect the purple wire completely and jump from positive wire on the starter to the terminal the purple wire would connect to. If it doesn’t try to crank then it’s a bad starter solenoid, a bad starter, a bad positive connection or a bad ground. Or check for 12v on the purple wire when cranking. Of course you will have to confirm you are on a good ground if checking for 12v. For those that are unfamiliar with electric troubleshooting, I recommend running a wire straight off the negative post on the battery to make sure your ground is good for voltage checks. Doesn’t have to be a large wire.

 

[TCSBuilds]

Disconnect the purple wire completely and jump from positive wire on the starter to the terminal the purple wire would connect to. If it doesn’t try to crank then it’s a bad starter solenoid, a bad starter, a bad positive connection or a bad ground. Or check for 12v on the purple wire when cracking. Of course you will have to confirm you are on a good ground if checking for 12v. For those that are unfamiliar with electric troubleshooting, I recommend running a wire straight off the negative post on the battery to make sure your ground is good for voltage checks. Doesn’t have to be a large wire.

My purple wire has a plug on the end of it and the starter doesn't have a terminal where the purple wire would connect. I think it may be different on the LNF vs LSJ. I posted a pic of it previously. I've got 12v to the positive terminal on the starter but haven't been able to check the 12v on crank to the purple wire as I can't reach it on my own, push the brake and turn the key. I've checked the 3 grounds and they all seem to be fine as well. Checked the fuses again and nothing has blown there.

Maybe I can try replacing the new starter with a newer starter (maybe this one is DOA)?

 

[Ross]

Well, if you are willing to buy a new starter, you could take apart the old starter, and see if you can find out why there is no copper in the purple wire connector. Maybe it is an easy solder fix.

 

[Gtstorey]

Can you return the new starter? No metal for the connector to contact means either defect or you broke it.

Sometimes you have to use additional wire to extend so you can see a meter. Or connect a 12v light bulb and get so you can tell if it lights. Working alone means you sometimes have to get creative.

 

[Rttoys]

Test light or volt meter connected to starter
phone set to video
try to crank
????
profit

 

[TCSBuilds]

Took a quick trip to AutoZone to confirm there IS a center pin in the starter solenoid connector. I’ll be taking my starter back in the morning and trying a newer starter hoping that solves the problem.

 

[Goblinfanclub1234]

yes fingers crossed, post a video of it running if it works

 

[Robinjo]

A little confused with you last post. Confirmed there is supposed to be a center pin in the starter or confirmed yours does have a center pin there?

 

[ah.b.normal]

Well GM, here we are again! Those 2 **** starter cables taped together and both black! Trouble! The end I circled looks like the GROUND cable that originally ran from below the driver's headlight to the block.(now should run from the block to a ground stud under the fuse box.)
Your NEW Positive(That Goblin directions show how to build) from the battery to the starter is a fat red wire with a copper lug on the end. Where is that one? It should be one of the three wires connected to the + post on the starter. The other two are the fat one from the Fuse box with the red band on the end and the smaller wire to the alternator. If you've connected your battery straight to the fuse box it appears you still have the ground wire on the + post as I circled in your pic. This can kill your battery and even start a fire.

 

[RGSkid70]

It's worthwhile to bench test the starter while you have it out. Ground the starter housing, and put 12+ volts to the top big post and the middle pin. Solenoid should move the gear, and the starter motor should spin. If not, she's no good.

 

[Gtstorey]

It's worthwhile to bench test the starter while you have it out. Ground the starter housing, and put 12+ volts to the top big post and the middle pin. Solenoid should move the gear, and the starter motor should spin. If not, she's no good.

Just don't hold it too long. A DC motor with no load can just keep turning faster until it tears itself apart.

 

[TCSBuilds]

Alrighty gents, she’s alive!!! Replaced the starter and she fired right up but quickly dies shortly after. Unplugging the MAF allows it to run. All keys are working as well!! Replaced the MAF this morning with a new one and still sputters and dies on the start up. But she’s running nonetheless!!

 

[ah.b.normal]

Alrighty gents, she’s alive!!! Replaced the starter and she fired right up but quickly dies shortly after. Unplugging the MAF allows it to run. All keys are working as well!! Replaced the MAF this morning with a new one and still sputters and dies on the start up. But she’s running nonetheless!!

Just curious, was that the ground wire I circled?