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V1 No Start, Was Working
D&dgoblin69
Well-Known Member
- D&dgoblin69 Well-Known Member
61 ohms good looks like your data is right
D&dgoblin69
Well-Known Member
- D&dgoblin69 Well-Known Member
What lights are on the dash while in run position? Just want to make sure the theft light ain’t on from a security issue? Also does your ecm communicate?
Goblinfanclub1234
Well-Known Member
- Goblinfanclub1234 Well-Known Member
I had the same problem, I eventually gave up and installed a push button start. I really had to crank down on the fuse box connector bolts to seat every connector.
Do automatics have a neutral/park switch so you don't start it in gear?
good luck
Do automatics have a neutral/park switch so you don't start it in gear?
good luck
Last edited:
- glantz Member
Update: I ordered a new ECM from Ares Technologies. It arrived super fast. They program to your VIN and offer 30 day money back guarantee if it does not work. I figured it was worth it to test to see if that is the problem. Plus, you can return it if it's not. I popped the new one in, reconnected battery and turned the key to on. Check Engine light on, fuel pump primed, butterfly moved on the throttle body (all things that weren't happening before). Awesome! So far so good!! I attempted the first cycle in the relearn procedure and things went downhill from there. The check engine light disappeared at some point during the procedure. At the end of 11 minutes the security light never went off (Procedure is three rounds, each 11 min, light goes off, wait 5 sec and repeat). I gave it another few minutes but it never went out. I attempted the procedure again, but nothing. It's back to the same. No fuel pump, no throttle body, no codes, no check engine light. I swapped the old one back in and same thing. So either it's not that, or something in my wiring is killing ECMs (that's a sickening thought). If it's not ECM, why did it restore some functions even just temporarily when I inserted new ECM? No fuses are out or anything. I checked every one at least 5 times. I'm pretty stuck. I wish I could interface directly with the ECM. I have no idea where to go from here at all. Frustrating.
- Gtstorey Goblin Guru
It looks like the ECM gets power on 4 different connections. I don't know which one wakes it up to start communicating.
When I had my recent issue with the hazard light connection the following happened;
All this to say that loose connections can be very sensitive and doesn't take much to make them work intermittently. Mine went through another period where where it occasionally wouldn't start without kicking the plate over the BCM. You may think that your connectors are tight on the fuse box, but one individual wire not making connection can cause all of these problems.
When I had my recent issue with the hazard light connection the following happened;
- Stopped and turned on hazard lights
- Took off to without remembering the hazard lights were on
- before my next stop, hazard lights stopped working
- Drove several more hours without noticing the hazard lights coming back on
- Parked the car in the garage without the hazard lights working
- The next night in the garage, the hazard lights were flashing
- After turning them off, they wouldn't work again
All this to say that loose connections can be very sensitive and doesn't take much to make them work intermittently. Mine went through another period where where it occasionally wouldn't start without kicking the plate over the BCM. You may think that your connectors are tight on the fuse box, but one individual wire not making connection can cause all of these problems.
- glantz Member
Assuming I’m doing this correctly, I do see power at the ECM connector (Attaching a photo). I inserted a wire into the power pin to access it more easily and other side is just the nearest ground lug. I’m a noob here so if this isn’t correct let me know. Should I see 12v? Going to have to research that.
