V1 P2138 code and intermittent limp mode!

[Robinjo]

Thanks, this wasn't a soldering issue per say. I had been using these connectors that have heat shrink and solder inside of them. You use a lighter to melt the solder bubble inside and shrink the tubing. Apparently I didn't get them hot enough so I'm going to do this one the way above. When I do actually stop being lazy and solder, I use a similar method to what you described.

 

[Rttoys]

Ah. Interesting.

 

[Metal Mech]

Thanks, this wasn't a soldering issue per say. I had been using these connectors that have heat shrink and solder inside of them. You use a lighter to melt the solder bubble inside and shrink the tubing. Apparently I didn't get them hot enough so I'm going to do this one the way above. When I do actually stop being lazy and solder, I use a similar method to what you described.

View attachment 39856

I have tried using those with a heat gun with mixed results. Usually I find the heat shrink melts super fast before the solder starts to flow.
Possible I am doing it wrong, but I just worry the connection isnt as good as solder.

 

[Gtstorey]

I don't think I would use those on sensor type connections where the resistance is critical. Then again I don't know that I would use them on a higher load power circuit either. Although it might would act as a fuse if the load gets to high.

 

[Robinjo]

I don't think I would use those on sensor type connections where the resistance is critical. Then again I don't know that I would use them on a higher load power circuit either. Although it might would act as a fuse if the load gets to high.

Other than my issue of them not fully seating, what else could be a problem with using them? Usually, when I do these right, the solder inside flows through the whole wire connection space.

Genuinely asking for knowledge, I'm not an wiz with this stuff.

 

[Gtstorey]

I would be interested in what material they are using to melt at the low temp of a heat gun. I just don't know anything about them. If they melt at such a low temp, I would be worried about the long term reliability of them. And if nothing else, you really can't confirm how well the connection is put together since you can't see inside it very well.

Then again, maybe I'm just getting old and don't trust newer technology.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I've used those without problems using a heat gun on high, but I only used it for simple connections like lights on my Goblin. Anything sensor or data related I would solder.

 

[Scott #321]

Haven't used that brand before but I will not allow those to be used by the shop at work anymore. My experience is not bad results with "new" wire but with older wire there can be a tendency to not have the solder make contact well with the wire. Try using with 5 random pieces of wire assembled with these then cut the heat shrink off after it cools down. Then attempt to pull the wire back apart, I had 2 of 5 connections that bonded so poorly there was only 1 or 2 strands actually soldered together. Test and verify results but for me, only solder w/marine grade heat shrink or crimped connections with the marine grade heat shrink. Life is too short for self inflicted wiring nightmares.

 

[Gtstorey]

The example I found on you tube matches the above. The solder really acts like conductive glue on the outside of the wire., not like a proper soldier joint.

 

[Robinjo]

I’m going to solder these connections this weekend. Hopefully it solves my issue.

 

[Robinjo]

Had a little bit of time tonight and got the APP connector side soldered. When I took out the heat shrink connectors, 2 of the 6 pulled out with a bit of force. Another thing I noticed is that one of the old stock connector harness terminals came unseated from the harness. I was able to reseat this female terminal. All these things very well could have caused the P2138 code still. This now gives me new connectors and wiring all the way to 3-4” from the ECM C1 connector.

Also, I was able to remove the LSJ APP connector harness by wiring it correctly. For mine, it’s just a connector as the main harness and APP are male connectors. The wires do not cross as I originally thought. It fires and throttle works as normal.

 

[Robinjo]

Just an update, I’ve gone on 10 drives of various lengths over the weekend with the issue not reoccurring. I believe this issue is finally resolved. It appears the wiring from APP to C1 connectors was the culprit, at least the main one.

 

[Robinjo]

Update, over a month and no reoccurrence of the P2138 and Reduced Power Mode. Re-wiring the throttle cables to the Fusebox seems to be the trick.