Yep. I worked for a motorcycle shop for several years off and on. Doing “normal” forks is easy. The inverted take a few extra steps, but really is all the same principle.
The tricky part is all the options in fluid weight and level. I’m going to go stock specs, as the suspension all around is great, with what I’m doing with the bike, it’ll be just fine in stock form. Now if I make Motoamerica or MotoGP with this bike……well it’ll be an anomaly for one, but then I’ll worry about if I need to go up or down 1/2# weight or add or subtract 1oz.
i already had the seal and bushing installer, but needed a fork tube holder for these forks. next weeks project.
Installed metal fuel line quick disconnects. The plastic ones are known to break and being 25 years old, I’m sure they were on the verge of catastrophe. Plis, the tank cleans up well
This model ducky is not easy to lift in the front. I had to get creative. I made an overhead hoist years ago out of a harbor freight wench and some pipe to hang from the rafters of the hangar. this was perfect to suspend the front end, to get the forks off. Worked great
The thing I hate about front forks is how intermediating they are. Overall they are a breeze. There’s several videos on these forks and plenty of sources for the special tools to accomplish the task. Just gotta get after it.
Use a pull type strap to compress the spring and put in the special holding tool. Plis, some painters tape will help for a smooth transition for the seals
Start to rebuild cleaning as I go. Also replaced and balanced the front tire while it was off. There’s always special tools on a ducky. These are front axle tools to install and remove, plus align properly.
I had to back track a little. One fork was still leaking even after replacing seals. Got another set of seals and to be sure got new bushings too. The seal was messed up, but I don’t know if I messed it up on install or from removal to be fixed again. Either way, both front forks are dry now.
Then to the fun stuff. Replaced timing belts. The last ones were “brand new” in ‘18 when I last had the bike out. Technically they are only good for 2 years, but belt technology has improved so you can go longer. These belts only have about 20 miles on them, but 7 years old, so for $100 it’s worth the insurance.
Gotta mark the old belts to teeth correct and you’ll need a holding tool for the upper cylinder when replacing them. Then it’s just setting belt tension. This can be done 4 different ways: set to 99Hz, buy the approved Ducati belt tension tool, use a 5mm Allen key method or the twist method. I choose 5mm Allen key and twist method. I have done the Hz, it matches with the other 2 I mentioned. :laughing:
She still starts and revs to 11k, so hope I’m good to button her up and go to Barber.
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