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V1 Ross's extended city, easy entry Goblin- 06 SS/SC, NW Arkansas
Ross
Goblin Professor
- Ross Goblin Professor
Replaced the LSJ piston oil squirters (Yellow) with LNF squirters (Green).
Measured the crankshaft main journals with a 3" micrometer.
They are at their minimum distance, so it is like a brand new crankshaft, with no measurable wear.
Amazing for this 200K mile crankshaft!
Crankshaft Main Bearing Bore Diameter 64.068-64.082 mm (2.5224-2.5229 inch)
Put Plastigauge on the crankshaft mains, then torqued the girdle down with no oil, as per the directions.
Crankshaft Main Bearing Clearance 0.031-0.067 mm (0.0012-0.0026 inch)
All main journals are close to their minimum limit... looking good.
I couldn't find ARP bolts to replace the 20 stock main bearing bolts... guess I will have to order stock ones.
I just reused the old bolts for the plastigauge measuring.
The oil squirters are about 2 thousands of an inch away from the crankshaft counterweight. I need to bend them a little.
Checked the crankshaft end play with a dial gauge, and got no measurable movement.
I saw that Steve Morris Engines used a dead blow to smack the ends of the crankshaft to make sure everything was seated. Steve said he often can get an extra thousandth or two by doing this. I'm going to give this a try, as it is too tight right now.
Measured the crankshaft main journals with a 3" micrometer.
They are at their minimum distance, so it is like a brand new crankshaft, with no measurable wear.
Amazing for this 200K mile crankshaft!
Crankshaft Main Bearing Bore Diameter 64.068-64.082 mm (2.5224-2.5229 inch)
Put Plastigauge on the crankshaft mains, then torqued the girdle down with no oil, as per the directions.
Crankshaft Main Bearing Clearance 0.031-0.067 mm (0.0012-0.0026 inch)
All main journals are close to their minimum limit... looking good.
I couldn't find ARP bolts to replace the 20 stock main bearing bolts... guess I will have to order stock ones.
I just reused the old bolts for the plastigauge measuring.
The oil squirters are about 2 thousands of an inch away from the crankshaft counterweight. I need to bend them a little.
Checked the crankshaft end play with a dial gauge, and got no measurable movement.
I saw that Steve Morris Engines used a dead blow to smack the ends of the crankshaft to make sure everything was seated. Steve said he often can get an extra thousandth or two by doing this. I'm going to give this a try, as it is too tight right now.
Ross
Goblin Professor
- Ross Goblin Professor
I am looking to replace the 20 bolts that are the main bearing bolts for the crankshaft.
I am surprised that ARP doesn't offer these.
RockAuto doesn't sell these.
Do I have to buy them from Chevrolet?
Do people just reuse these torque-to-yield bolts, since the bottom of these engines is so overbuilt?
I am surprised that ARP doesn't offer these.
RockAuto doesn't sell these.
Do I have to buy them from Chevrolet?
Do people just reuse these torque-to-yield bolts, since the bottom of these engines is so overbuilt?
Rauq
Goblin Guru
- Rauq Goblin Guru
Not ARP, but are these what you're looking for? https://zzperformance.com/collections/ecotec-bolts/products/zzp-ecotec-main-stud-kit
Ross
Goblin Professor
- Ross Goblin Professor
I'm making a balance shaft delete kit driver.
I lathed out a driver head (green square) that will get welded to the pipe beside it.
Then the Level Zero Motorsports aluminum sleeve (red square) goes over the driver.
Every builder who has pounded this sleeve into their engine has said it took a lot of pounding to get it seated in.
The driver goes into the engine past the sprocket bushing hole (hole E and I below, or 1 on the balance shaft above), all the way to bushing hole 2, where the sleeve gets pounded in.
I lathed out a driver head (green square) that will get welded to the pipe beside it.
Then the Level Zero Motorsports aluminum sleeve (red square) goes over the driver.
Every builder who has pounded this sleeve into their engine has said it took a lot of pounding to get it seated in.
The driver goes into the engine past the sprocket bushing hole (hole E and I below, or 1 on the balance shaft above), all the way to bushing hole 2, where the sleeve gets pounded in.
Desert Sasqwatch
Bigfoot Goblin
- Desert Sasqwatch Bigfoot Goblin
Put the sleeve in the freezer overnight before trying to install it, might help it go in a little easier. 
Ross
Goblin Professor
- Ross Goblin Professor
A toothbrush and some Berryman B12, and most of the oil staining is gone off the girdle and block.
The reusable girdle bolts have a different torque spec:
2 of the studs wouldn't go down the full length.
I was able to fix it by cutting 2 studs 1/4" short, as that section didn't have threads.
I couldn't find a torque spec for the outer 10 bolts (yellow circles), so they got torqued to 20 foot pounds based on their bolt size.
The oil squirters were bent to clear the crankshaft counter weights by 15 thousandth of an inch.
The crankshaft is now installed, so the engine install has turned the corner, and is being assembled.
The reusable girdle bolts have a different torque spec:
2 of the studs wouldn't go down the full length.
I was able to fix it by cutting 2 studs 1/4" short, as that section didn't have threads.
I couldn't find a torque spec for the outer 10 bolts (yellow circles), so they got torqued to 20 foot pounds based on their bolt size.
The oil squirters were bent to clear the crankshaft counter weights by 15 thousandth of an inch.
The crankshaft is now installed, so the engine install has turned the corner, and is being assembled.
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Ross
Goblin Professor
- Ross Goblin Professor
Making custom tools... weld a couple of chain links to a flat plate, and plasma cut a hole in the side of a pipe.
I cut the pipe too short (Oops!), so I found a 3/8" socket to extend it to the correct length.
Then using a couple of M6 bolts, the plate was mounted across the camshaft bearing, and a 1/2" square bar was used as a lever to push the pipe, which compresses the valve spring.
A cotton rag was used to hold the valve in place while the spring was compressed. Sometimes a light tap of a hammer on the square bar was able to help the valve release the retainers. Using a pick, flashlight and a magnet, I was able to fish the valve retainers out.
After the head was stripped down, I used the pick to score the gasket edge. Now I have several hours of work with the burr and sanding wheels to enlarge the ports about 1mm bigger, to make a gasket matched hole.
I cut the pipe too short (Oops!), so I found a 3/8" socket to extend it to the correct length.
Then using a couple of M6 bolts, the plate was mounted across the camshaft bearing, and a 1/2" square bar was used as a lever to push the pipe, which compresses the valve spring.
A cotton rag was used to hold the valve in place while the spring was compressed. Sometimes a light tap of a hammer on the square bar was able to help the valve release the retainers. Using a pick, flashlight and a magnet, I was able to fish the valve retainers out.
After the head was stripped down, I used the pick to score the gasket edge. Now I have several hours of work with the burr and sanding wheels to enlarge the ports about 1mm bigger, to make a gasket matched hole.
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