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V1 SinisterSF's Turbo Build

SinisterSF

Member
SinisterSF
So I scored what could be an amazing deal today. I picked up a non-running, clean titled 09 SS with 90k on it for $2500. Cheaper than I've seen even the hardest hit ones go in auction for.

The bad, it was a spoiled kid who owned it and when it died he pretty much gave it to the guy I bought it from and didn't tell him anything. Of course this guy didn't know anything about it either.

So I brought it home and put it on the charger. I went out and tried to fire it up.
Cranked for about 10 seconds, it was turning a little slow I think. I did that a couple more times.
Then I decided to just crank for days, it started cranking faster and eventually fired, for half a second then died. I did that a few more times with the same results. Perhaps a fuel issue? How do I test the fuel pressure on this thing?

I'll post some pics tomorrow.
 
rallyracer
I usually see people trying to find the original owner or someone who knows the guy through one of the Cobalt SS Facebook groups or on cobaltss.net. Then maybe you'll get the real low down on just what has been done and what is wrong.
Maybe worth a shot.
 
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SinisterSF
I've got his contact info, it's in all the crap I cleaned out of the car. Must be nice to be a spoiled rich kid that can trash **** then just get something to replace it whenever he likes.
 
N
Don't happen to hear any chunks of the pistons banging around inside? :s

Hope it is something easy! Normal FP in the tank and the HPFP is to the right of the valve cover. Mmmm I thought there was a test plug on the rail..... Haven't dug into my lnf in a bit. I would check for a bad tune from Trifecta as well... I'll have to see about finding how that is found out, I think trifecta used some TC button or steering wheel button to enable/disable.

Have you seen underneath and checked for a different turbo or downpipe? Could be some bad "upgrades" too.
 
SinisterSF
I just tested the low pressure pump and it's good. I checked the hpfp plug and did a volt check on the wires. They seem ok. I did an ohms test on the pump itself and there's nothing when I touch the two terminals, I thought there should be a reaction?

Anyways, I'm gonna try squirting some starter fluid in it and if it fires immediately it's definitelythe hpfp.

Here's some pics!
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smithvmi
Maybe the TB is messed up or something else is inhibiting airflow into, or even out of, the engine.

I'm jealous of the car for that price but not jealous of the gremlin you have to chase down, that's for sure.
 
Adam
We tried a few things on our turbo motor to recreate your problem but couldn't get the same result. Have you tried unplugging the MAF to see if it runs any better?
 
SinisterSF

Sooooooooo. I pull the plugs and immediately I know there's nothing wrong with the fuel. The plugs are black, wet, and smell like gas. Ut-oh.... So I proceed to compression test, 1=65 and doesn't hold it, 2,3,4 completely dead. So I think I know why it won't run now!

The oil is unmixed so I don't think it's a head gasket. Perhaps the rings, I'm gonna pull the head tomorrow and look for any obvious valve damage.

Any suggestions? Not sure if I'll rebuild or just buy an LDK motor from ZZP.
 
SinisterSF
I took the intake off this morning, tons of buildup on the valves, but I don't think it would prevent them from closing. Then I removed the valve cover (that oil return line on the turbo is a real *****!). Timing chain has tension and I see no obvious valve train damage. Can I do any further checks from here or does the head need to come off now?
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Adam
For each cylinder, get the piston to top dead center on the compression stroke and pressurize the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Since you don't have compression, air is going to come out somewhere. This test will help you find out where it is leaking. It will come out past the valves, by the head gasket (and into the cooling system) or into the crankcase.
 
Jungle Gym
What Adam describes is called a leak down test, and I highly recommend you do that before you take it any further apart. Not only will a leak down test tell you where it's leaking, but by how much. If it's the valves or hg, then that will save you the pain of tearing into the bottom end for no reason. Google how to do the procedure and how to tell where the leaks are.

As with any other system on a car, there are diagnostic tools and procedures available that will save you a considerable amount of time and money. The days of tearing something apart and trying various spitball fixes to see what works are long gone.
 
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