V1 Sluggonaut's Extended Track #364 - 2007 SS/SC (Turbo) Donor

[Sluggonaut]

All of the QA1s that I have assembled have been a slip fit.

New video by Lonny Doyle

photos.app.goo.gl

If that is how they should fit with no modifications I clearly have the wrong parts.

 

[Sluggonaut]

This was my experience as well. I have assembled two sets of these coilovers for the front of my build (used a longer damper for more ground clearance with 15" wheels), and the only tool I used for installing these bearings was the snap ring pliers.

This was my expectation as well, however, mine will require a hydraulic press and I'm concerned what that may do to the shock end.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Just my opinion, but it appears the outer race is getting hung up on the snap ring groove in the shock eye. This is most likely because the bearing is cocked when inserted - the shock eye should be the same diameter all the way through.

The bearing is larger than the eye, so when I try to tap, pound, or press the bearing into the smaller hole the sharp edge where the bevel meets the flat part of the race is most definitely digging into the snap ring groove. That is what those marks are in the pic above. No matter how I apply pressure, even slowly with the vice, it tilts (I guess I cannot use c0cks) the bearing because it doesn't fit into the hole straight.

After seeing Lonny's video, there is something wrong with what I received in the box, as I am nowhere close to that tolerance.

 

[Sluggonaut]

You might try a different bearing in that hole and that bearing in a different hole to rule out which one is wrong.

All bearings have been tried in all holes, from both sides of each hole. I noticed some ends are a different size from one side to the other, not much but one was a smaller diameter. This is why I didn't think it was a wrong part issue because I have the same issue from 2 differently packaged shocks. After seeing your video, maybe they were from the same lot with some tolerance creep the day they were made. The resistance starts immediately after the leading edge of the taper just starts in the shock end with the edge of the taper stopping cold once it gets to the edge of the eye.

 

[Fozda]

If you need springs sooner rather than later I still have all of my "old" springs sitting around.

 

[Sluggonaut]

If you need springs sooner rather than later I still have all of my "old" springs sitting around.

Springs have been sourced, just waiting on them.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Some build updates include QA1 tech support, powder coating round 2, and NACA duct install.

I spoke with QA1 who said the shock end/eye should be about 1" and the bearings should be just under that. Mine are the opposite with the largest shock ends measuring just under an inch and the smallest measurement I could get on one of the bearings at just over an inch. My caliper is a low-grade HF unit, but regardless of its accuracy these measurements are relative and QA1 confirmed the bearings should measure smaller than the ends and are definitely slip fit.

They asked if DF swaps out the bearings and I sent him a pic of how they were shipped in the original QA1 factory packaging. He wanted a pic of the box end so they could check the lot and make sure they didn't have a production issue. He is checking his inventory and is going to send me the smallest bearings he can find. It was a pleasant customer service experience.

I received the second mount for my Option B tank and dropped it off at the powder coater. They have a minimum so I checked for any other parts I wanted done. When I sat down to assemble my uprights, I realized I painted the rod ends that came with the kit but I did not paint the upgraded lower rod ends that I also ordered. Since I couldn't assemble my uprights, I threw 2 of the painted rod ends and the unpainted lower rod ends in the box to be included. Just waiting for powder coat to finish so I can get the front suspension finished up.

I received the NACA duct kit a couple of weeks back and never got around to installing it. This is another one of those things that was a lot more difficult than I thought it would be. It wasn't really difficult, just a bit like a puzzle trying to get it into place. I installed my HE after the radiator and everything else up front with no issues. However, I had to pull the radiator and hoses to get the HE and plenum assembly crammed in there. I almost took off the radiator support but ended up not needing to. It was more difficult because I had the silicone installed on the plenum's tubes. I thought about taking them off, but they were difficult to get on the tubes out of the car and I thought it would be near impossible to put them on once the plenum was installed. In any case, it's installed. My only concern is the brake/clutch lines up front. There's a lot of stuff going on up there, with the pipes, hoses, and HE all sort of riding on those lines. I had to bend one of the hose clamp tails around to keep it from rubbing on the lines.

*Note to future builders: If you are installing the NACA duct kit, install the HE and the plenum before everything else up front to make it easier and to preserve your paint/powder.

The next big items are to finish cleaning up my engine harness and to get the new seat brackets installed so I can finalize my steering placement.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Some build updates include QA1 tech support, powder coating round 2, and NACA duct install.

I spoke with QA1 who said the shock end/eye should be about 1" and the bearings should be just under that. Mine are the opposite with the largest shock ends measuring just under an inch and the smallest measurement I could get on one of the bearings at just over an inch. My caliper is a low-grade HF unit, but regardless of its accuracy these measurements are relative and QA1 confirmed the bearings should measure smaller than the ends and are definitely slip fit.

View attachment 31874View attachment 31875View attachment 31876

They asked if DF swaps out the bearings and I sent him a pic of how they were shipped in the original QA1 factory packaging. He wanted a pic of the box end so they could check the lot and make sure they didn't have a production issue. He is checking his inventory and is going to send me the smallest bearings he can find. It was a pleasant customer service experience.

I received the second mount for my Option B tank and dropped it off at the powder coater. They have a minimum so I checked for any other parts I wanted done. When I sat down to assemble my uprights, I realized I painted the rod ends that came with the kit but I did not paint the upgraded lower rod ends that I also ordered. Since I couldn't assemble my uprights, I threw 2 of the painted rod ends and the unpainted lower rod ends in the box to be included. Just waiting for powder coat to finish so I can get the front suspension finished up.

I received the NACA duct kit a couple of weeks back and never got around to installing it. This is another one of those things that was a lot more difficult than I thought it would be. It wasn't really difficult, just a bit like a puzzle trying to get it into place. I installed my HE after the radiator and everything else up front with no issues. However, I had to pull the radiator and hoses to get the HE and plenum assembly crammed in there. I almost took off the radiator support but ended up not needing to. It was more difficult because I had the silicone installed on the plenum's tubes. I thought about taking them off, but they were difficult to get on the tubes out of the car and I thought it would be near impossible to put them on once the plenum was installed. In any case, it's installed. My only concern is the brake/clutch lines up front. There's a lot of stuff going on up there, with the pipes, hoses, and HE all sort of riding on those lines. I had to bend one of the hose clamp tails around to keep it from rubbing on the lines.

*Note to future builders: If you are installing the NACA duct kit, install the HE and the plenum before everything else up front to make it easier and to preserve your paint/powder.

The next big items are to finish cleaning up my engine harness and to get the new seat brackets installed so I can finalize my steering placement.

Good that you contacted QA1 and they sound like they are trying to make things right. Keep us posted on the outcome of the exchange bearings and if they fit.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I really wish I cleaned up the engine harness and plugged everything back in before bolting it up to the frame. Debating yanking it back out to finish up this engine harness.

I found a few things I need some help with tonight. First up is the clutch line connection.

I'm not sure what the official name of these 2 parts are but it's the port the clutch line plugs into that's attached to the elbow that goes onto the clutch pipe nipple (I believe that is what it is anyway).

Mine is completed rusted and I am not sure what should separate where. Should the clutch line separate at the seam the arrow is pointing to? The reason I ask is whenever I try to pull this apart, the black line rotates but nothing else moves. It seems like those slots are where the wire clip came out and it should separate at that seam. The rust is also preventing me from unscrewing that part from the elbow. If I knew what these parts were called I would probably just replace them if readily available so I have new parts here. I think it may be GM GENUINE 24252286 from Rock Auto but with no picture, it's hard to know for sure.

Another dumb question: that is the bleeder valve in the red circle, correct?

The second issue is I can't seem to find a plug to go into the sensor located between the heater pipes. I would guess this is the ECT sensor, but on the 2.0 my research tells me it is the sensor I already have a connection for at the front right/passenger side of the head - this guy right here:

I don't seem to have a connector on the harness for this guy between the heater pipes, which looks like it should be an ECT as well:

The last issue is the wiring on one of my plugs. I could try to de-pin it so I can try to fix the mangled wires but figured I would try to find a replacement connector to splice in instead. I'm not sure what this sensor is making it hard to search for a replacement connector. Does anyone know what sensor this is circled in this pic?

 

[Ross]

Clutch distribution block (Chevy term), ZZP calls it a hydraulic clutch elbow. Yes, with a clutch fluid bleeder on the side.
Clutch pipe (that is inside the bell housing), clutch clip.
I think that last red circle is the barometric MAP sensor.

The Engine Coolant Temp sensor (1)

I'm not sure what that sensor is between the heater pipes.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Clutch distribution block (Chevy term), ZZP calls it a hydraulic clutch elbow.
Clutch pipe, clutch clip.
I think that last red circle is the barometric MAP sensor.

Thanks Ross!

Are there 2 MAP sensors on the LSJ? I was pretty sure the one next to the heater hose at the other end (passenger side) of the head was a MAP sensor:

Looking at the MAP sensor connector pics on Rock Auto, they show a bunch of 3-wire connectors (looks similar to the one I need to replace) and the GM part which shows a 4-wire connector, which looks like the passenger side one above.

 

[Ross]

Yes, there are 2 MAP sensors. Inside the manifold pressure - barometric pressure = boost pressure. I think it is the same sensor in both locations... well stock it is, if your car has an aftermarket 3 BAR MAP, then it would be different.

 

[r3drckt]

Looks like Ross Hit point 1 and 3 for you. Regarding the thermostat housing: Yes, that is a water temp sensor which the LSJ has on the front as you mentioned. The entry level turbo swap kit from ZZP comes with the thermostat housing from the LNF because the water tube clears the exhaust manifold (because both come from the LNF). Some people swap the whole thing and that’s what you’re seeing on yours. I only swapped the tube and kept my LSJ housing. Reason why I kept it is because of the factory oil cooler used the 2 barbs at the front of the stock housing which was my original plan to use. Since I changed to an external oil cooler, I probably should’ve switched the housing as well.

TLDR: that’s the LNF housing from the kit, nothing connects there on the LSJ. Leave the sensor though or pull it and plug the hole. Your choice.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Thanks! That not only answers this question but also one I had previously about the oil cooler hoses and why the housing didn't look like anything I've seen for LSJs.

 

[Rauq]

Would you mind sharing a few pics of your oil cooler plumbing? Interesting timing in that I'm at a crossroads regarding my LSJ oil cooler. Thanks!

 

[Sluggonaut]

Would you mind sharing a few pics of your oil cooler plumbing? Interesting timing in that I'm at a crossroads regarding my LSJ oil cooler. Thanks!

I don't have mine plumbed yet, but I will be using Gtstorey's post from page 12 when I get to that point.

The front oil cooler hose will Tee into the radiator hose. I found Dorman 627-006, which has OD measurements of 1-1/4"-3/4" so we'll see if I can use the heat gun to get this Tee to work in this spot.

The rear oil cooler hose will connect to the thermostat housing, with a 3/4" tee along that run that goes to the overflow tank.

 

[Rauq]

I'm actually curious to see how it was routed as it came out of the Cobalt.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I'm actually curious to see how it was routed as it came out of the Cobalt.

Also on Page 12. This post shows the best pic I have in the donor followed by a pic of me trying to recreate where everything was based on my pics and the one hose I had left over.

Radiator hose to the thermostat housing. The front oil cooler hose is the one in question that looks to have gone to one of the heater core connections on the firewall. The rear oil cooler hose went to the driver-side heater pipe. The other heater pipe went to the other heater core connection on the firewall.

 

[Rauq]

Got it, sorry I missed that. Yeah it looks like you had the worst case scenario of a mixture of configurations without a clear indication of what was going on. Thanks for your help!

 

[Corgithulhu]

Another dumb question: that is the bleeder valve in the red circle, correct?
View attachment 31902

Before you snap that on, make sure you have the little rubber seal on the nipple that sticks out of the bell housing/transmission. It is really easy for that seal to pop off and be lost forever, and you can't buy just the seal. Ask me how I know.