Donor Help - Cobalt SS wont start but cranks - Thoughts?

D

David

Well-Known Member
Now just a quick question how many miles does the engine have?
My engine has 110000 should I replace mine even if it is tight I haven't checked it yet
 
Karter2026

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
David said:
Now just a quick question how many miles does the engine have?
My engine has 110000 should I replace mine even if it is tight I haven't checked it yet
Click to expand...
Mine had 187,000. It usually is not the chain that fails it is the guides and the tensioner that wears out. I would also suggest put a water pump in while doing it. The pump is chain driven off the balance shaft chain.
 
D

David

Well-Known Member
Is there a timing kit that guys are using I see there are a couple different ones on rock auto
 
D

David

Well-Known Member
So I'm just wondering since I'm in there what should I really replace because I seen kits from 60 to 400 dollars because I'm also thinking if everything is apart changing the balance shafts to zzp natural balance shafts it wouldn't hurt.
So I'm thinking correct me if I'm wrong

Timing chain kit (not sure which one)
Water pump
Balance shafts
 
D

David

Well-Known Member
D

David

Well-Known Member
I was reading up on the cobalt forum they where saying the CLOYES 94201S from rock auto is the same as the oem my question if I get this kit what else would I need
 
Karter2026

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
David said:
How did the quality look where the I am sprockets better then the kits what was the reason you did not use sprockets

Did it come with instructions first time doing this
Click to expand...
No instructions. I have VVT so my engine has cam phasers and the sprockets will not work on my application. Just reused my phasers
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
At this point you have to pull the head. The only thing really stopping you is breaking the chain, but the chain HAS to go. I would not trust it all. Beside you have to replace the tensioner. Other than that, you will have to get a new head gasket. Of course I talking as if the engine is already pulled out, which you will need to do to use it anyways.

Taking off the head will tell the whole story. If the piston tops are okay and the valves are bent, you might be able to just replace the head. Hard to know for sure.

It's easy to feel overwhelmed by it all. I remember once as a kid almost in tears working on my car having to replace the ring gear (11 hours of tear down and 14 hours build up). But once you do it, it doesn't seem so bad after all.

I'm currently pulling a donor engine from one car, pulling a dead engine (timing chain broke) from my son's ex-girlfriend's car and swapping them, fixing everything and putting it back in her car. I don't do this junk for a living nor a hobby.
 
B

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
Just for fun I took a peak at the service manual instructions just to see what was entailed. It mentions a few other pieces which I don't know if you really need or not like new front seal and intake/exhaust actuator bolts.

The procedure doesn't really seem too bad at all. The only tricky part that I see might be resetting the tensioner.

Don't feel overwhelmed. Eat the elephant one bite at a time.
 
BAR-AIR

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
How far are you willing to go on the engine build? First Goblin "Blue" I purchased a front-ended 2008 Cobalt approx. 70,000 miles wanted to freshen up the engine/transmission. In the end, probably would have been cheaper to just sell the engine/trans. and buy a new set... Ended up with a real nice completely overhauled engine/transmission (upgraded final drive) but it's still just a 2.2 with a supercharger so I'm limiting my power output to keep it under 230 hp. Where if I started from scratch would have a GEN3 block and hp and future add on would be endless.
It's just a matter of how far and how much power you want to generate down the road.....
 
D

David

Well-Known Member
Yea now that I'm thinking I'm going to stick with my stock LNF and bear it like no other thing and when it blows build a high power engine
 
dperkins

dperkins

Well-Known Member
I'd do a compression test. If something seems off, take off the exhaust and intake manifolds and check for any bent valves. Any bent valves are easily replaced for only 10 bucks a valve at ZZP. If you need to remove the head I would forget the TTY bolts holding the head on and use head studs.
 
BaltimoreHokie

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
Alright, I finally got going and got the head off the motor. I do need some assistance though, from what I can see...the valves look good. But I am no mechanic. What should I look for to verify if they are bent? I dont really even see any kissing marks on the pistons. I'll post some pictures below...

Here is the full pictures of all the valves. https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/7hVZwKDVH3IX7HRQzQvRNNZAL3THLLBqLsmivltCNAI
 

Attachments

B

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
They appear to be fine. The buildup appears to be mostly uniform and undisturbed and you said there werent any marks on the pistons.

If I were in your shoes, I'd clean them off and call it good. Don't use a wire brush if you do though. Toothbrush or walnut shell media blast.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top