JS City Goblin - 2010 LS
- Thread starter JSATX
- Start date
Also because it looks better that way!
JSATX
Goblin Guru
The dreaded “Engine power reduced” seems to be striking more frequently now. It’s really becoming a big headache. Tonight I actually made progress though. Previously I would pull DTC codes after the problem happened, and not find anything which drove me crazy. Tonight it finally dawned on me to pull codes while the car was in limp mode and sure enough there’s a different one from the ones that are always there.
P0641 is the code. It instantly triggered limp mode and I could not actuate the throttle at all, per usual.
Even more interesting is clearing DTC immediately removed the message on the dash and returned my throttle pedal function.
Apparently it’s some kind of reference voltage. I don’t know what the voltage is supposed to be or where to pick it up with a meter but I have a lot of previous (unrelated to cars) experiences with wacky reference voltages and that can cause all kinds of problems. Yikes.
P0641 is the code. It instantly triggered limp mode and I could not actuate the throttle at all, per usual.
Even more interesting is clearing DTC immediately removed the message on the dash and returned my throttle pedal function.
Apparently it’s some kind of reference voltage. I don’t know what the voltage is supposed to be or where to pick it up with a meter but I have a lot of previous (unrelated to cars) experiences with wacky reference voltages and that can cause all kinds of problems. Yikes.
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
I wonder if the freeze frame data stores voltages for these sensors at the time of failure. Might want to look into that. I think VCM Scanner will show it if you have HP Tuners.
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Karter2026
Goblin Guru
I have two things that i feel it could be. You have had this intermittent issue since day one correct?
Since it is on circuit 1. one of the sensors you cut out A/C pressure sensor or Fuel tank Pressure sensor. Is getting a ground some place.
Where I would start though is the APP sensor it has been a problem across the board for gm vehicles. Change out the pedal assy. and see if that fixes it first.
Just my 2 cents
Since it is on circuit 1. one of the sensors you cut out A/C pressure sensor or Fuel tank Pressure sensor. Is getting a ground some place.
Where I would start though is the APP sensor it has been a problem across the board for gm vehicles. Change out the pedal assy. and see if that fixes it first.
Just my 2 cents
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Did your model come with a short pig tail adapter that hooks up to the gas pedal?
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JSATX
Goblin Guru
That’s really helpful thanks. Can you tell me what the diagnostic system check on 6-91 says?
JSATX
Goblin Guru
Thanks. I’m beginning to get really fuzzy on timeframes. I don’t think I had this problem before turbo. I’m not saying they’re related, but I don’t remember having this problem before then.
Karter2026
Goblin Guru
Ok. So if not before the turbo you changed MAP sensors correct? If so it is on circuit 1 also. Look there
JSATX
Goblin Guru
I don’t know what that is so I guess not?
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Page 6-91 Is just generic troubleshooting steps like how to check fuses and use a multimeter. I have a feeling you already know how to do all that. If not, let me know. 
JSATX
Goblin Guru
As I’ve continued to build one thing that stuck out was all the accessories that needed switched ignition power. My heated seats, dash gauges, cell charger and minimalist radio to name a few.
As we all know there’s some switched power at the BCM from accessories that were removed from the cobalt, but I always felt a little nervous because I had several accessories plugged in that way and I’m not exactly sure what the max amperages are in those fuse ports.
So I made a dedicated switched power block. All the accessories that were previously connected to other random fuse spaces are getting removed and routed to this. I’ll now use only one of the BCM fuse ports to fire this big ass relay which will let (up to) 100 amps to the 6 port distributor. Each accessory can now be easily and individually fused.
Plus now the wires I had attached directly into the battery can be removed and tidied up as well.
As we all know there’s some switched power at the BCM from accessories that were removed from the cobalt, but I always felt a little nervous because I had several accessories plugged in that way and I’m not exactly sure what the max amperages are in those fuse ports.
So I made a dedicated switched power block. All the accessories that were previously connected to other random fuse spaces are getting removed and routed to this. I’ll now use only one of the BCM fuse ports to fire this big ass relay which will let (up to) 100 amps to the 6 port distributor. Each accessory can now be easily and individually fused.
Plus now the wires I had attached directly into the battery can be removed and tidied up as well.
Silverback
Well-Known Member
Nice solution, what's the brand & part # ?
JSATX
Goblin Guru
Blue sea makes the little fuse box, there’s cheaper versions available but this one is quite nice.
From there just any 100-125A12V relay, and 4ga wire and crimp connectors.
From there just any 100-125A12V relay, and 4ga wire and crimp connectors.
jirwin
Goblin Guru
Can you post a picture of what that looks like with just lows and then with however you have it setup for highs? Showing both left and right headlights. I was trying to find a single row setup like yours last night that supports low and high but gave up and just got 2 sets of 3x2's. I wondered how something like this would look.
JSATX
Goblin Guru
yes once it’s out and driving again I’ll do just that.
I was quite disappointed to find rigid discontinued their flat light with hi/lo. The larger one on the right in the picture that same model used to be offered in the driving light model with brights and now it’s not.
JSATX
Goblin Guru
Replacing the instrument cluster = lot easier said than done.
But my new fighter jet inspired dash is gonna look sick. All the gauges and switches I need on one center panel, and separate panel will go up top on each side to the mirrors, drivers side will house tach and a couple other items, passenger side will have a small box for paperwork and maybe a phone and such.
But my new fighter jet inspired dash is gonna look sick. All the gauges and switches I need on one center panel, and separate panel will go up top on each side to the mirrors, drivers side will house tach and a couple other items, passenger side will have a small box for paperwork and maybe a phone and such.
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