Manual transmission pedal box questions

Johvans

Well-Known Member
Does anyone have any pictures of the manual shifter pedal box and what was removed? This is literally the only part that is still in my dash and it looks like the cylinder is riveted into the firewall.

Any help would be appreciated!
 

Adam

Administrator
Staff member
You'll need to remove the nut from the pedal pivot bolt. The nut is outside the dash support sheet metal. Use a 13mm socket.

clutch pedal removal 1.jpg


Then you will need to remove two nuts that hold the pedal bracket to the fire wall. Use a 10mm socket.

clutch pedal removal 2.jpg


clutch pedal.jpg
 

Johvans

Well-Known Member
How do you split the clutch rod from the pedal arm? There is a white tab on the back that I can push in and hear an audible click that makes me think once it is released it will release the clutch rod. I don't want to break it.

Any help would be appreciated...
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
The white tab is mirrored on the opposite side. You will need to push the other side in also.
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
Post some pics from different views and let's make sure I am not missing something.
 

Johvans

Well-Known Member
Just to follow-up on this.. You cannot push the white retainer clips together with the rod between them for them to release. They will not compress enough.



It must be pushed together like so...



 

Adam

Administrator
Staff member
I did some googling and now it makes sense why yours didn't release like the others we've dealt with. Your donor had an aftermarket pushrod from ZZP (ZZP Adjustable Clutch Rod).

The stock push rod isn't as big where you have to squeeze the plastic clip. This lets the clip move in just far enough to disengage from the pedal. Compare the size of the shaft of the stock rod near the clip:

M0455_SID[1].jpg
 

Ross

Well-Known Member
I see the stock pedal alignment has the gas pedal moved back 2". Has anybody tried mounting a block on the gas pedal or moving the pedal forward 2"?
7586
 

Christopher Sanchez

Well-Known Member
I see the stock pedal alignment has the gas pedal moved back 2". Has anybody tried mounting a block on the gas pedal or moving the pedal forward 2"?
View attachment 7586
I also just noticed this when bleeding my brakes.. I drove a turbo cobalt for 5+ years and didn’t notice it the way I do now.. you literally have to lift your heel of your foot to get the brake.. doesn’t feel right
 

Desert Sasqwatch

Well-Known Member
I’m working on this right now with a manual brake conversion setup. Will start a new thread this weekend on how I did it
Will be very interested in the manual brake conversion. Power brakes are definitely overkill for the Goblin.

Another question: by going with a different brake set up, what did you do to resolve the shared hydraulic fluid source for the clutch?
 

JSATX

Well-Known Member
Will be very interested in the manual brake conversion. Power brakes are definitely overkill for the Goblin.

Another question: by going with a different brake set up, what did you do to resolve the shared hydraulic fluid source for the clutch?
For several reasons I wanted to keep the stock fluid reservoir. So with that in mind it’s as simple as finding a suitable master cylinder designed for use with remote reservoir.
 

Ross

Well-Known Member
I also just noticed this when bleeding my brakes.. I drove a turbo cobalt for 5+ years and didn’t notice it the way I do now.. you literally have to lift your heel of your foot to get the brake.. doesn’t feel right
I'm not sure why Chevy decided to put the gas pedal 2" further away than the other pedals, but I prefer my 3 pedals to all be at the same level. Thus why you have to lift your heel to press the brake.
 
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ctuinstra

Well-Known Member
Couldn't a guy just change the mounting holes for the throttle pedal on the pedal box to rotate it? Seems like an easy fix.
 

JSATX

Well-Known Member
I would highly recommend you work on pushing the brake pedal back further instead of bringing the gas pedal out (which would be easier) because there’s already not enough room. If you have an extended chassis that may not apply.
 

Ross

Well-Known Member
7679

I mocked up the pedals in the Goblin, and noticed that the gas/brake pedals are about 4" farther from the steering wheel, in the Goblin than in the Cobalt. I guess it is a more "lie down" seating position. Also the clutch pedal is now about 1.5" forward from it's Cobalt position, so now all the pedals form a diagonal line instead of being straight across. Guess I could put a 1.5" block on the brake, and a 3.5" block on the gas... but I will try the car this way before I attempt re-engineering it.
 
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JSATX

Well-Known Member
Once you hook up the clutch pedal fully, it will be level with the brake pedal.
Mines hooked up fully and looks just like the above picture.

I don’t mind the clutch being there because the tube next to it makes a really nice foot rest. But I’m backing up the brake pedal to be equal with the gas
 
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