SliderR1's Track Goblin - 05 SS/SC
- Thread starter SliderR1
- Start date
SliderR1
Well-Known Member
Here are some more:
The soda blasting really cleaned up the intercooler/intake manifold well!
I noticed the rear main seal was ever so slightly leaking, so I replaced it with a new Fel Pro seal and made this little tool to seat it in without having to beat on it.
Here is the ZZP aluminum flywheel. I'm having issues with getting the stock type Exedy clutch to mount to it - none of the bolt holes on the pressure plate line up with the flywheel in any of the possible three positions - gonna talk with ZZP about that today. The flywheel bolts are from ARP and were an Opel/Vauxhaul part. There is a lot of discussion on the CSS board about the other ARP bolts made for the Cobalt that don't work because the bolt head is too thick, these fit great and don't rub the clutch disc.
Laminova cores were nasty...
The soda blasting really cleaned up the intercooler/intake manifold well!
I noticed the rear main seal was ever so slightly leaking, so I replaced it with a new Fel Pro seal and made this little tool to seat it in without having to beat on it.
Here is the ZZP aluminum flywheel. I'm having issues with getting the stock type Exedy clutch to mount to it - none of the bolt holes on the pressure plate line up with the flywheel in any of the possible three positions - gonna talk with ZZP about that today. The flywheel bolts are from ARP and were an Opel/Vauxhaul part. There is a lot of discussion on the CSS board about the other ARP bolts made for the Cobalt that don't work because the bolt head is too thick, these fit great and don't rub the clutch disc.
Laminova cores were nasty...
SliderR1
Well-Known Member
I do have one really good excuse for one of the weekends I didn't do any work - I got to attend the Ron Fellows Corvette Driving School at Spring Mountain Motorsports Ranch near Las Vegas. It was a blast! I got to drive the living daylights out of a 2018 C7 Grand Sport for two days. It was amazing to me how much faster a car like that can corner vs. a sportbike. I've done hundreds of trackdays and a little amateur racing on two wheels, but the four wheel stuff has me hooked now...
They had just recently taken delivery of some new 2019 ZR1s...
This was the GS I drove the first day.
They had just recently taken delivery of some new 2019 ZR1s...
This was the GS I drove the first day.
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
SliderR1
Well-Known Member
You mean the red stuff on the friction surface? I didn't think it was paint...but this is my first flywheel with a removable friction surface.
SliderR1
Well-Known Member
So you used the ZZP flywheel? What did you use to clean the paint off?
SliderR1
Well-Known Member
That coating was a PITA to get off the flywheel. I ended up using a scotchbrite pad and brake clean.
So the pressure plate and clutch disc that was on this car did NOT fit the aluminum flywheel from ZZP. Both pieces were Exedy parts, and I'm assuming were matched to the flywheel that was on the engine. I ended up just buying a new upgraded LSJ clutch kit and it fit the flywheel perfectly. I now have an extra throwout bearing that I'll sell if anyone needs one.
Got a little more engine assembly completed over the long weekend. I'm glad that someone mentioned clocking the laminova tubes in another thread becuase I forgot. Once I got that taken care of, I installed the intake with the new phenolic intake spacer. I also made a little fuel injector cleaner with a syringe and a 9 Volt battery - worked like a charm. Progress is slow but steady...
So the pressure plate and clutch disc that was on this car did NOT fit the aluminum flywheel from ZZP. Both pieces were Exedy parts, and I'm assuming were matched to the flywheel that was on the engine. I ended up just buying a new upgraded LSJ clutch kit and it fit the flywheel perfectly. I now have an extra throwout bearing that I'll sell if anyone needs one.
Got a little more engine assembly completed over the long weekend. I'm glad that someone mentioned clocking the laminova tubes in another thread becuase I forgot. Once I got that taken care of, I installed the intake with the new phenolic intake spacer. I also made a little fuel injector cleaner with a syringe and a 9 Volt battery - worked like a charm. Progress is slow but steady...
SliderR1
Well-Known Member
Been at it hard for the last three days and have some progress to add to this thread.
Engine is basically finished now - just need to add some sheathing to the harness when my order is delivered.
So I accomplished a pretty big milestone yesterday and got both the radiator hoses installed in the lower frame tubes, by myself. I did have a little help with a John Deere tractor. Didn't even take 1 minute to pull them through with it.
Once that was finished I started assembly on the actual car. I think things are going to go a lot faster now!
On a side note, I haven't ridden my motorcycle one time since I started this project. Last weekend was an anuual rally I do with the FZ09.org community over near Burnsville, NC. Had an absolute blast and it was great to get away from the build for a few days.
Engine is basically finished now - just need to add some sheathing to the harness when my order is delivered.
So I accomplished a pretty big milestone yesterday and got both the radiator hoses installed in the lower frame tubes, by myself. I did have a little help with a John Deere tractor. Didn't even take 1 minute to pull them through with it.
Once that was finished I started assembly on the actual car. I think things are going to go a lot faster now!
On a side note, I haven't ridden my motorcycle one time since I started this project. Last weekend was an anuual rally I do with the FZ09.org community over near Burnsville, NC. Had an absolute blast and it was great to get away from the build for a few days.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
Looks great!
Be careful about the MAP sensor plugs, there are two of them, one for the intake and one for barometric. The plugs can physically plugged into either one but they are supposed to be plugged in to the proper sensor. One wire color is different, sorry I don't remember the colors, I looked them up to make sure I had them correct.
Be careful about the MAP sensor plugs, there are two of them, one for the intake and one for barometric. The plugs can physically plugged into either one but they are supposed to be plugged in to the proper sensor. One wire color is different, sorry I don't remember the colors, I looked them up to make sure I had them correct.
SliderR1
Well-Known Member
Got a lot done this weekend.
Engine is in now. Engine cooling system is hooked up. Now working on a custom mount for the fuse box - I has similar issues that others have mentioned about getting it to fit in the as designed location. A simple tab should fix that.
My radiator mounts were quite a ways off. Spent some time getting that fixed. Engine mounts lined up great!
Engine is in now. Engine cooling system is hooked up. Now working on a custom mount for the fuse box - I has similar issues that others have mentioned about getting it to fit in the as designed location. A simple tab should fix that.
My radiator mounts were quite a ways off. Spent some time getting that fixed. Engine mounts lined up great!
SliderR1
Well-Known Member
Got some progress to add.
I've been working on the car quite a bit lately. I'm up to the point of starting her up. The fuel pump and gauges all seem to be working, but I have the dreaded no movement from the throttle body butterfly.
I figured it was broken comm wires, as is the usual suggestion to everyone with an in-op TB, or a bad ground somewhere. I went back through all the ground points and REALLY cleaned up the powder coating and ensured everything was tight. Checked the ground and comm wires and continuity was good.
Started checking voltages next. I started at the TB and checked the APP Sensor 2 signal and it was good. So, I continue checking and discover that the APP sensor 1 is bad on the accelerator. I wanted to share this because I've had a similar problem that others have had, but the source was different. I figured the problem was probably something I had soldered backwards or missed, but it was a bad sensor on the accelerator. And then I remembered the time I dropped the pedal box....since the sensor was working when I bought the car. Had to have been when it broke.
For future reference, this sensor can be checked by hooking one multi-meter lead to the 5V power pin on the accelerator plug and the other lead to the signal pin. Signal 1 and Signal 2 are the outer most two pins on the plug. Set your multi-meter to read Ohms and as you move the gas pedal the reading should be somewhat linear. If it jumps around or is flat for a section, the sensor is bad.
As I was leaving the shop last night, I saw my laptop and thought, DUH! I double checked with HPtuners and it confirmed my suspicion, codes for bad APP sensor... I should have done that first! Anyway - hope this helps someone down the road...
I've been working on the car quite a bit lately. I'm up to the point of starting her up. The fuel pump and gauges all seem to be working, but I have the dreaded no movement from the throttle body butterfly.
I figured it was broken comm wires, as is the usual suggestion to everyone with an in-op TB, or a bad ground somewhere. I went back through all the ground points and REALLY cleaned up the powder coating and ensured everything was tight. Checked the ground and comm wires and continuity was good.
Started checking voltages next. I started at the TB and checked the APP Sensor 2 signal and it was good. So, I continue checking and discover that the APP sensor 1 is bad on the accelerator. I wanted to share this because I've had a similar problem that others have had, but the source was different. I figured the problem was probably something I had soldered backwards or missed, but it was a bad sensor on the accelerator. And then I remembered the time I dropped the pedal box....since the sensor was working when I bought the car. Had to have been when it broke.
For future reference, this sensor can be checked by hooking one multi-meter lead to the 5V power pin on the accelerator plug and the other lead to the signal pin. Signal 1 and Signal 2 are the outer most two pins on the plug. Set your multi-meter to read Ohms and as you move the gas pedal the reading should be somewhat linear. If it jumps around or is flat for a section, the sensor is bad.
As I was leaving the shop last night, I saw my laptop and thought, DUH! I double checked with HPtuners and it confirmed my suspicion, codes for bad APP sensor... I should have done that first! Anyway - hope this helps someone down the road...