Tim's Extended Track Lower Entry - 10 SS/Tc *REGISTERED*

Tim Moland

Tim Moland

Well-Known Member
I've been in love with this color ever since I saw yours. I promise I'll do something different on the hood! Haha
 
Tim Moland

Tim Moland

Well-Known Member
Worked on the back half of the wiring tonight. Got most of it hooked up, with the exception of the ground. I will have to extend my coolant overflow tank sensor wires to get them to reach the tank. Getting pretty close to firing it up!
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DF sent me a new radiator hose to try out. It moves the hose away from the alternator. Fits pretty good.
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Tim Moland

Tim Moland

Well-Known Member
Did I mess up? What is this aluminum ring used for? It is in a bag marked Radiator hose hardware. I'm done with the radiator part of my build, I think...
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Lonny

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
That ring is used to pull the hoses though the frame. Your way past that part so you don't need it.
 
aaronbuley

aaronbuley

Well-Known Member
Tim Moland said:
Did a little more plumbing on the master cylinder. I have one more hose for the clutch to hook up. I notice the nipple coming off the reservoir looked a little fatigued at the base from me yanking on the original house to get it off. I decided to JB weld the base to give it a little more support before it cracks. View attachment 8117
Then I moved on to the fuel tank. Got it all installed and the filler neck plumbed. I then noticed that the fuel pump hold down ring is under the fuel tank top frame rail. It is impossible to remove it from the tank without loosening the tank strap and letting the tank relax back. I'm thinking that doing this after the engine is installed will be very hard. Any reason why I can't install the fuel pump now before the engine is installed? Also, does the vent tube in the filter neck get a hose attached right back to the nipple in the top of the tank, or does something else hook up there. I noticed there is a T in the fuel filter neck parts bag. Maybe that goes in between. View attachment 8118
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Did your fuel tank come with the washers and nuts on it? I didn’t get any. Are we supposed to use donor nuts?

Also, yes, important step to take the ring off before mounting the fuel tank. And BEFORE putting the engine in. Glad I went to put the pump in before the engine. :)
 
Tim Moland

Tim Moland

Well-Known Member
aaronbuley said:
Did your fuel tank come with the washers and nuts on it? I didn’t get any. Are we supposed to use donor nuts?

Also, yes, important step to take the ring off before mounting the fuel tank. And BEFORE putting the engine in. Glad I went to put the pump in before the engine. :)
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If you are talking about the ring to hold the fuel pump in, then yes it did come with washers and nylock nuts. I believe the ring was on the tank with the washer and nuts holding it on loosely when I received it.
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This is what they look like.
 
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Tim Moland

Tim Moland

Well-Known Member
I had some issues with overheating. I think I got it figured out. See my other post in the Engine and transmission section. I got my cold air intake installed. It was tight. I have about 1/8" of clearance to my coilover. I might take it back apart and trim 3/8" off the big metal elbow so I can snug it up against the frame a little bit more. Right now it's bottomed out on the reducer coupler that hooks to the turbo.
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How does this hose hook up to the intake tube? Do you remove it and just run a rubber hose between the two? Or is there a check valve in the original hose?
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Tony

Tony

Well-Known Member
Tim Moland said:
I had some issues with overheating. I think I got it figured out. See my other post in the Engine and transmission section. I got my cold air intake installed. It was tight. I have about 1/8" of clearance to my coilover. I might take it back apart and trim 3/8" off the big metal elbow so I can snug it up against the frame a little bit more. Right now it's bottomed out on the reducer coupler that hooks to the turbo.

How does this hose hook up to the intake tube? Do you remove it and just run a rubber hose between the two? Or is there a check valve in the original hose?
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Check out my thread for info on both of these issues. You want to leave the check valve on that hose. I think the kit comes with an adapter fitting that has the male push-connect on both ends, then a female p-c hose end fitting. I couldn't use them since my check valve p-c fitting was trashed.
 
Tim Moland

Tim Moland

Well-Known Member
Before I put fluid in and start using it, what kind of hose should I be using from clutch pedal to reservoir? I don't want the brake fluid to corrode what I have on there now. I think I'm using vacuum hose. It is marked as TOC hose.
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B

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
I would not use that hose. Even though the guy at AutoZone argued with me that fuel line--which looks like what that is--I decided not to use it. I think Chad used fuel line and the brake fluid weeped out and messed up the powder coat. I'm glad I didn't listen to the guy at AZ.

I used this instead. *EDIT* I think this might be the wrong size. I think you'll actually need 3/8".

https://www.ebay.com/itm/REMOTE-BRAKE-FLUID-RESERVOIR-HOSE-8mm-ID-Sold-by-the-Foot-see-description/331424730451?epid=1192713365&hash=item4d2a740d53:g:q6MAAOSw2RJcao-K
 
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