V1 Pisco's extended city goblin #220 (2009 SS/TC donor) Registered

[jirwin]

FWIW I just put ZZP's ARP studs and open ended lug nuts on my hubs. It was an easy job with a Harbor Freight press and the little installer tool. I did have to slightly shave down the casting at the middle of the wall of the triangle to slip the old stud out at the new longer ones in.

 

[Gtstorey]

I think the broken stud is the one on the back of the bearing mounting it on the knuckle, although the torque spec used might have been for a wheel stud.

 

[jirwin]

Oh whoops, must have missed that. I assumed wheel stud when he said stud.

 

[pisco]

I think the broken stud is the one on the back of the bearing mounting it on the knuckle, although the torque spec used might have been for a wheel stud.

My mistake was this is for a front assembly, not thinking about the fact we are bolting the rear assembly in to the front....

 

[Gtstorey]

My mistake was this is for a front assembly, not thinking about the fact we are bolting the rear assembly in to the front....

That would do it. Don't be a slave to a torque wrench. I use one very little and pretty much never on chassis/suspension bolts.

 

[ah.b.normal]

That would do it. Don't be a slave to a torque wrench. I use one very little and pretty much never on chassis/suspension bolts.

But then again GT you have a depth of experience and hands on experience many builders can only aspire to. I was calibrated at a grunt was 30ft# in my earlier years, now 30# is about a grunt.25. I guess I'm getting old.

 

[pisco]

I'm an Electrician by trade (20 years in the field) now I'm 40 and sit behind a screen doing boring stuff but back in the day I was called too tight toe thumbs.. my go to is to turn it till it doesn't turn then a little more or use a torque wrench if its something that matters....
I feel like all these matter especially the suspension and brakes

 

[Gtstorey]

My point is, a misused torque wrench can cause more problems than one not used.

 

[pisco]

My point is, a misused torque wrench can cause more problems than one not used.

I hear ya
just a stupid mistake grabbing the wrong torque value in a hurry



I couldn't find a stud that fit the dimensions and class 10.9 that could be delivered in less than 2 weeks so I grabbed a fine thread bolt and used the 3 good studs with one bolt installed after. There is plenty of clearance, the hole is through drilled and fully threaded so I see no problem with it.
The fine thread will have a higher clamping force but it should be fine.

it got me aligned and running for more test runs and tuning updates.
now I'm held up by wet weather CWS was last week so its monsoon season here in eastern NE.


anxiously waiting on MCO to get Montana process started!

 

[pisco]

New issues
anybody care to chime in all input always welcome...
I have no turn signals up front and no tail lights in back..... brake and turn work fine rear but up front I only have high/low/drl
and mirrors are park lamps only. I took apart BCM X1 and pins 17 & 35 don't tone out to any of the front wires, following them back down the tunnel to the rear fuse block, not sure what they do there alldatadiy doesn't show were they go exactly but I'm also not done following them.
Tail lights I haven't started troubleshooting yet... that will be after I trace out front signals...

 

[ah.b.normal]

#1 Are these all LED's? LED's hate bad / excessive resistance at ground. Easy check, run a 10* jumper to their ground direct from the -(neg) battery post. Also check the neg cable and where it bolts to the frame and engine.............A bad ground example; 1989, a 15 y/o Pantera. It came in for headlights dim, radio amp quitting and slow cooling fans leading to overheating; which ALL magically goes away when you drive fast! The big engine to neg - batt wire was fine, the engine to body cable was loose/ corroded(but looked fine) and the 10* small - batt to body wire was corroded inside the insulation. When you revved the engine everything worked great. Part of the engine mount was touching metal to metal completing the ground circuit nicely, but ONLY when the motor rose up in it's mounts. The 10* battery to body ground wire crumbled and broke off when I accidentally tugged on it, then we noticed engine to frame ground looked a little crusty(big resistance point) and replaced it. That cured everything but the driver's lead foot!

 

[pisco]

Turns out everything was wired correctly, everything is fine except my right was left and left was right....
I built the harness 4.5 years ago, the turn signal wires were short so I extended them with the wrong color wires. I remember taking notes on what was what and I have since lost the notebook. Well I had left and right reversed so I thought I had park lamp signal and no turn signal.... what a stupid mistake to cause such a headache troubleshooting.
also tail lights are working. I didn't have the headlights on it was the drl...
I re wrapped the hood and installed the footwell cover, got the latest tune downloaded, It did the runs like S**T thing again after a 3 hour battery disconnect, couple minutes of idle and it evens out. I think it must have to re learn.
Anyway Matt over at zzp said to let er rip so I opened it all the way up for the first time! That is an experience I'm pretty excited to get it plated and take it to events and actually see what it has...

Adam sent an email I missed before, my MCO should be here wednesday.
I will get it to the Montana agent asap and hopefully have a temp tag for the 4th...

 

[pisco]

Insured, Titled, Registered and road legal
wow registration is not as bad as I thought, worse than it should be!
On the 3rd I went to the county DMV for vin inspection, took paperwork to the state capitol to DMV administration to get an assigned vin, they initially rejected me for "missing info" on the vin inspection sheet, I politely argued that that the info doesn't exist and that there is no vin on the vehicle for the sheriff deputy to write down.
The lady was polite and helpful, she called the deputy that did the inspection that morning and straightened out the problems, I had to make a phone call and have a friend write me a bill of sale on the spot for a part and I left with a vin tag. Drive back home and attach the vin tag then head back to the county DMV. Every step of this process left everyone scratching their head, phone calls to the state supervisor happened at all 3 locations, all but the initial inspection took 3+ hours... but it's done. Now I have a 2025 Goblin with 81K miles and a previously salvaged title.... But I am on the road and it was actually surprisingly cheap.

 

[pisco]

Got a professional alignment done, he told me the recommended caster would be too much so he cranked it down. After driving the car it tracks straight at low speed and feels much more stable up to about 40, 40-70 about the same, over 70 its scary and all over the road! I was struggling to keep it going straight and it felt overly twitchy. Is this the caster or other factors? I'm honestly scared to drive it now and was getting quite comfortable before

He told me if I'm unhappy with anything or need it to be adjusted at all to call him and he would make changes.
I paid over $200 for this
what are your thoughts everybody....

 

[Mahkoi]

I do not have a professional alignment (unless you consider string, tape measure, angle finder and beer a professional alignment). Mine drove exactly how you described yours until I added the front splitter.

 

[Gtstorey]

You need to explain the what the numbers are. Without the remainder of the screen, we are guessing.

 

[pisco]

You need to explain the what the numbers are. Without the remainder of the screen, we are guessing.

yeah I posted what I got from him I assume there is a standard for the layout of the numbers I'm a noob at alignment aside from a string line diy I did on a 92 dodge shadow with a turbo swap I did when I was 19
I've always left it up to the pros

 

[pisco]

I do not have a professional alignment (unless you consider string, tape measure, angle finder and beer a professional alignment). Mine drove exactly how you described yours until I added the front splitter.

So you're saying I need downforce.....

Next question is splitter vs 9lr wang..

 

[Gtstorey]

Not likely an issue of lack of downforce in the rear.

 

[Adam]

When we do our own alignments, we use toe plates to measure front and rear toe in inches, not degrees. We shoot for at least 0.125 inch toe-in total between the two sides.

Drawing that up in Solidworks, this puts the target toe angle at 0.30 degrees total, so 0.15 per side.

If I'm reading the results correctly, you've got 0.15 degrees total toe on the front and 0.21 at the rear. I'm wondering if he was shooting for .15 total instead of per side. At the angles you're car is at, the toe plates would measure 0.06 inches front toe-in and 0.086 inch rear toe-in. If he is willing to give it another shot, see if he can set the front and rear to +0.30 degrees toe.

I can't guarantee this will fix the stability issue but I think it would be a good first step before looking elsewhere on the car.