V1 Sluggonaut's Extended Track #364 - 2007 SS/SC (Turbo) Donor

[r3drckt]

@k.rollin linked the ones from the DF store above. If you have a 3d printer, you could make your own as well. Open your choice of design software, make a solid circle that's the size of rotor's opening, then cut a circle hole the size of the wheel hub out of that solid, export to your slicing software and then print. If I had to guess, the print would take all of about 10-15 minutes to do.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Yes, the ebrake kit uses the rotors from a solstice which have a larger center bore. DF 3D prints black centering rings for the rotors so they stay hub centric. It would’ve came with your ebrake kit.

I found the issue tonight after looking at everything a little closer (reads: I put my cheaters on) and I noticed the inside edge of the caliper was very close to, if not touching, the rotor. Borrowing the picture from one of Ross' posts:

I originally had a washer in the blue location illustrated above. I moved the washer on the caliper bracket from the blue location to the red location to pull the caliper inboard, away from the rotor. I torqued the wheel on and it spun more freely. Took the wheel back off and torqued the bracket and caliper back down.

 

[Ghostknife]

I had to put mine at the RED line in order to clear the caliper bracket on the rotor.

 

[r3drckt]

I would still put another washer at the blue location as the steel nut can damage the aluminum bracket.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Good news and bad news tonight. The good news is I got my taillights, mirrors, and headlights wired in.

The bad news is I finished all of the taillight wiring and forgot about the resistors I bought for the hyper flash. I moved on to the mirrors and headlights and figured I'd undo all that work later. I remembered the resistors for the mirrors but still had the hyper flash on those when tested. I think I read somewhere that is expected until I get the resistors on the taillights also.

The worst part was after getting the headlights wired in, I am not getting power to the driver's side low beam. I swapped the plugs to test the light/connection and they both work so it is a wiring issue. I called it quits as I am not ready to start troubleshooting the harness buried beneath the almost finished car. I'm going to watch the wiring videos again to see where I could have screwed something up. The bad part is the donor didn't have working headlight bulbs so I don't know if the harness/wiring from the donor had issues.

I may just run a wire from the passenger side low beam unless someone can think of a reason why that would be a bad idea.

Edit: I checked the fuse for the LH Low Beam and it was blown, so I swapped in the fuse from the LH Hi Beam that was working, and still no go.

 

[r3drckt]

Fuse was probably blown from a short. What I’d do is run a new wire from the LH low back to the fuse box (or BCM, not sure off hand where it runs to) and splice it in that way and see if it works. If it does, zip tie the new wire to the harness and call it good. You can tape it in next time you pull the harness out

 

[Sluggonaut]

Fuse was probably blown from a short. What I’d do is run a new wire from the LH low back to the fuse box (or BCM, not sure off hand where it runs to) and splice it in that way and see if it works. If it does, zip tie the new wire to the harness and call it good. You can tape it in next time you pull the harness out

My concern is the headlights are on PCB relays and are non-serviceable. That seems like such a bad idea. So if the relay is bad, it doesn't matter where I'm running wire, a new fusebox is the only fix. I'll try to troubleshoot later, but it has been bumped to the bottom of the list for now.

 

[Gtstorey]

The later models have a high and low pcb relays but not for individual sides. I doubt the earlier are different. But could still be a problem in the circuit board. It’s not that hard to put your own relays/fuses that are signaled by the bcm to work the head lights. Or even to work directly of the switch.

 

[Sluggonaut]

In looking through the wiring diagrams it looks like the turn signal power supplies come out of the BCM on the C1 and C3 connectors.

C1 - 17 = Right Front
C1 - 35 = Left Front
C3 - A9 = Left Rear
C3 - A12 = Right Rear

Is there any reason why I can't tap into these with my resistors instead of wiring the resistors in at each corner?

I figure it will be easier to hide them under the kickplate and I won't have to tear open the wiring in the rear I just finished up.

 

[Gtstorey]

You need to check the wiring diagrams and confirm whether that voltage actually supplies the lights or just closes the relay for the the turn signals. I don't remember exactly how it is wired to rapid flash since I don't think there is an actual flasher like used to be used.

 

[k.rollin]

In looking through the wiring diagrams it looks like the turn signal power supplies come out of the BCM on the C1 and C3 connectors.

C1 - 17 = Right Front
C1 - 35 = Left Front
C3 - A9 = Left Rear
C3 - A12 = Right Rear

Is there any reason why I can't tap into these with my resistors instead of wiring the resistors in at each corner?

I figure it will be easier to hide them under the kickplate and I won't have to tear open the wiring in the rear I just finished up.

View attachment 33191

Kinda like this?

Hyper Flash Turn Signals

So has anyone else had any luck with installing the resistors for the turn flash speed? I have tried with no luck I get the same speed no mater what I try. I understand the whole resistance being less with the LED but I do have incandescent turns next to my head lamps, I have the LED mirror...

dfkitcar.com

 

[Sluggonaut]

You need to check the wiring diagrams and confirm whether that voltage actually supplies the lights or just closes the relay for the the turn signals. I don't remember exactly how it is wired to rapid flash since I don't think there is an actual flasher like used to be used.

That's why I was asking, it says 'lamp supply voltage' but I wasn't sure if that is to the lights or the PCB relay.

According to AllData, it says it is controlled by the BCM, so I'm thinking this might work:

 

[Sluggonaut]

Kinda like this?

Hyper Flash Turn Signals

So has anyone else had any luck with installing the resistors for the turn flash speed? I have tried with no luck I get the same speed no mater what I try. I understand the whole resistance being less with the LED but I do have incandescent turns next to my head lamps, I have the LED mirror...

dfkitcar.com

Yep, exactly like that. So I guess that confirms it works. lol

I was going to mount it on the bulkhead and run a ground to my ground distribution block, but the same exact concept. I'm glad to know it will work as I really didn't want to splice every corner.

 

[Gtstorey]

That's why I was asking, it says 'lamp supply voltage' but I wasn't sure if that is to the lights or the PCB relay.

According to AllData, it says it is controlled by the BCM, so I'm thinking this might work:

View attachment 33192

There should be a diagram that shows how the entire system from switch to light works.

 

[Gtstorey]

I checked the diagrams for the newer models and the turn signals are fed directly off the BCM. The older models probably are too, but I would still confirm before I started cutting wires.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Splicing into the wires at the BCM to install resistors for the turn signals worked fine. I have them temporarily connected for testing and will wrap everything once I get the towing harness spliced in.

I also crossed off a bunch of smaller items, like wiring in the 3rd brake light, AFR/boost gauges, and turn signals by the headlights. I also filled and tested the IC circuit. I was putting it off because I expected multiple leaks with all the connections that could fail. I only had one leak at the front where the pex line meets the elbow going into the HE. It was a simple tightening of the clamp and the leak stopped. I didn't want to overtighten the clamps and deform the end of the pex line, but it didn't take much tightening to stop the slow leak.

I'm picking up my rear tunnel cover section from powder coat today, so I am hoping to have the tunnel buttoned up this weekend and the parking brake tested once I can bolt the handle in. Once that's done, I need to get the initial alignment done so I can take her for her first test drive.

 

[r3drckt]

Tried using a level to straighten the rear wheels initially to square them with the frame per Lonny's instructions, but without alignment plates I tried using a laser measuring tape to get the alignment in check front and rear. I fear this worked for the rear, but the front looks like it's toe out. HIGHLY recommend you get something straight to do your alignment, don't do what I did. I'm gonna bite the bullet and get the plates I think.

 

[Sluggonaut]

Tried using a level to straighten the rear wheels initially to square them with the frame per Lonny's instructions, but without alignment plates I tried using a laser measuring tape to get the alignment in check front and rear. I fear this worked for the rear, but the front looks like it's toe out. HIGHLY recommend you get something straight to do your alignment, don't do what I did. I'm gonna bite the bullet and get the plates I think.

I have the toe plates and will ballpark it with those, but I think I will be using the string method to get it even closer. I'm also not sure how easy it will be to use the angle finder on the rotors, so I'm going to make a camber gauge this weekend using angle iron, rivnuts, and 2 bolts so I can use the wheels for my camber measurements.

 

[Sluggonaut]

I finished my search and the only thing I can find on 5th gear with the billet shifter is a coolant hose can knock it out of gear by hitting the counterweight. When I have an extra set of hands I'll see if that is what is preventing it from going into 5th.

I just finished my install and 1-4 work great but I cannot get it into 5th or reverse. I'm not sure what gets adjusted so I didn't start messing with it too much yet.

The reverse lockout lever works perfectly if I manipulate it by hand, but if I move the shifter over to depress the spring release it doesn't press it down far enough to release the lockout lever. I adjusted the nut on the lockout lever to see what that changed and it only affected whether the lockout lever did what it was supposed to when manipulating by hand - it had no effect on whether the shifter released it or not.

Anyone else have issues getting into 5th/reverse or have adjustment advice?

 

[Sluggonaut]

Turns out it is the outer shift linkage (the one without the counterweight) that needed adjustment.

After playing around with the cables to see how it all worked, I turned the ball joint in a couple of turns so that the shift lever would move further to the passenger side. After I reconnected the ball joint I was able to get into 5th and reverse. The bottom of the shift lever now goes over far enough to depress the lockout spring so the lockout lever pops back in place.