V1 Rttoys’s track- ‘06 ss/sc #184

[Ghostknife]

I can see the splitter doing a lot of good for airflow management on that light a front end.
The rear has so much weight on it that not much if any aero aids should be needed for that end of the Goblin.

But dang they look at home with a spoiler lol. Im wondering if deeper fins on the diffuser would make a difference.

 

[Rttoys]

Putting the cobalt wing on the back was purely aesthetics. Although I liked the look of basic back end, it just needed something and the big wings everyone is using, are just not my thing. I kept the wing from my cobalt just because it was a cool looking wing. One day I tossed it on the back and it just seem to belong there. It didn’t take much to make a couple of mounts and it’s done.

The rear is stable for any real world driving, but could use some extra traction in autocross and track situations, but that’s going to be suspension, wheels and tires.

With the front splitter, the car is now “one hand” drivable. You can actually drive the goblin like a real car now. I’m actually shocked at the change, just from a little piece of aluminum. I do need to tweak my alignment with the new wheels and tires though. It’s a never ending circle.

 

[Ghostknife]

Putting the cobalt wing on the back was purely aesthetics. Although I liked the look of basic back end, it just needed something and the big wings everyone is using, are just not my thing. I kept the wing from my cobalt just because it was a cool looking wing. One day I tossed it on the back and it just seem to belong there. It didn’t take much to make a couple of mounts and it’s done.

The rear is stable for any real world driving, but could use some extra traction in autocross and track situations, but that’s going to be suspension, wheels and tires.

With the front splitter, the car is now “one hand” drivable. You can actually drive the goblin like a real car now. I’m actually shocked at the change, just from a little piece of aluminum. I do need to tweak my alignment with the new wheels and tires though. It’s a never ending circle.

That's all part of the fun, right!!

 

[Rttoys]

I ain’t gonna lie, the build was fun, but the tweaks are the part I really like.

 

[Fozda]

With the front splitter, the car is now “one hand” drivable. You can actually drive the goblin like a real car now. I’m actually shocked at the change, just from a little piece of aluminum. I do need to tweak my alignment with the new wheels and tires though. It’s a never ending circle.

I believe it has to do with all of the air going through the radiator dumping under the front of the car causing a high pressure zone. I saw the same improvement when I built my splitter as well.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Like explained in this past post about proper radiator venting

Front Wing

I am looking to do some type of front wing and I was curious if anyone else has worked on this yet?

dfkitcar.com

 

[Fozda]

The rear has so much weight on it that not much if any aero aids should be needed for that end of the Goblin.

Have you tested this theory?

 

[G Atsma]

Have you tested this theory?

What do you know that counters my "theory"?

 

[Fozda]

What do you know that counters my "theory"?

Nothing. I'm still testing my theories.

 

[Rttoys]

I think a lot of it will be dependent on what you are using your car for and rules. Hell, in theory, we can’t use wings or any aero aids at SCCA autocross as per the E Mod rules. We get away with it because we are the only ones in our local class and we don’t care.

 

[SmsDetroit]

No, couldn’t justify the cost. SACTX (Scott) and I got together and made a couple out of alumilite and another friend of mine over engineered some fins out of aluminum plate.

We also made front splitter’s. The splitter really changed the high speed stability of the goblin, but I couldn’t tell you if the defuser did anything other than kind of finish off the back end.View attachment 29509View attachment 29510View attachment 29511

Please take my money

 

[Rttoys]

Please take my money

Post 33 has the cad stuff from Scott‘s designs. Shipping and boxing it up to guarantee no damage would be outrageous, unfortunately.

High speed instability

Hey guys and gals. Unfortunately the northwest meet up for today had to be canceled due to rain so I will be tinkering on my car in the garage. This has me thinking about my latest high speed run. As I approach 120 MPH the car does not seem stable at all. (I’ve only had it to 125 or so) It’s...

dfkitcar.com

 

[SmsDetroit]

Post 33 has the cad stuff from Scott‘s designs. Shipping and boxing it up to guarantee no damage would be outrageous, unfortunately.

High speed instability

Hey guys and gals. Unfortunately the northwest meet up for today had to be canceled due to rain so I will be tinkering on my car in the garage. This has me thinking about my latest high speed run. As I approach 120 MPH the car does not seem stable at all. (I’ve only had it to 125 or so) It’s...

dfkitcar.com

Thank you. Three question. First what did you make them out of? Second how did you attach the front? Third on the front I can’t tell but it looks like there is a hole cut in the center for the heat exchanger, is that correct?

 

[Rttoys]

1. 6mm alumalite. The stuff is pretty strong and extremely light.

Alumalite® | Corrugated Plastic Core Panels | Aluminum Composite Panel

Corrugated plastic core, double-sided aluminum for stability and strength, thicknesses range from 6mm - 25mm

www.laminatorsinc.com

2. I drilled 2 holes at the floor pan (where your feet are) and attached with bolts/lock nuts. I drilled 2 holes matching where the radiator support is bolted to the frame and ran those support bolts all the way through everything. Then I made 2 S brackets for the front. I drilled holes through the front of the rad support to mount the S brackets and attached it to splitter. -see pics

3. Yes, that’s a cutout for the ic rad. We also added a cheap “hood scoop” facing backwards to direct the airflow out and back while still covering the bottom. You will also have to change your ic fan to a pusher instead of a puller (Spal SPU-IX-30100393 or gotta find part number for other fan that’s stronger). Yes, this is a little counter predictive because we are trying to get rid of airflow under the vehicle to create a suction to pull the vehicle down, but it kind of is what it is, due to working with what we got, in the position they are in. One day, I may make an alternative, but it works as is, so it’s not a priority.

 

[Rttoys]

The front splitter has changed a bit. Had a buddy cut one out of 1/8” aluminum, but add sides bent up to 90* and bent the rear to 20*. This worked even better than just the flat alumilite, but flexed a little. Not enough for concern, but my buddy wanted to make one out of 1/4” aluminum, so I let him. We did tweak prototype #3 by cutting it out of 1/4” aluminum, kicking the back bend up to 45* and eliminated the cutout for the intercooler. I’m changing the ic layout, so that cutout is not needed for me. This really seem to plant the front end. Driving around 50 you can see a solid heat line on the tires, then kick it up to 70ish and see the line move outward. I’m considering this done on my end.

 

[Rttoys]

To be continued………….

 

[Ark :D]

Goblin #2?

 

[Rttoys]

Mostly heart transplant without downtime, then to stash some extra parts that are unobtainium and parts for others that need them.

 

[Rttoys]

The engine in my goblin went through 2 teenagers, including total, then the cobalt was rebuilt and still driven, plus it has gone though 2 years of my own shenanigans. If I’m going to add anymore hp and rpm I really need to do some internals. If I do some internals I really need to do a complete rebuild. I don’t want to wait a month or more of downtime to get this done, so I have been looking for another lsj for the right price and finally found it. I know others are looking for a doner too, so I didn’t jump on it right away. After I let it sit and no one picked it up, I decided to buy.

 

[Ark :D]

The engine in my goblin went through 2 teenagers, including total lying the cobalt, it being rebuilt and still drive, plus it has gone though 2 years of my shenanigans. If I’m going to add anymore hp and rpm I really need to do some internals. If I do some internals I really need to do a complete rebuild. I don’t want to wait a month or more of downtime to get this done, so I have been looking for another lsj for the right price and finally found it. I know others are looking for a doner too, so I didn’t jump on it right away. After I let it sit and no one picked it up, I decided to buy.

I feel you. If I can locate a LNF motor for relatively cheap (ha!!!), I may consider doing the same. I admit, I would not mind learning how to build an engine, but I won't be doing it with my production equipment.