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V1 Rttoys’s track- ‘06 ss/sc #184

Classy
I couldn’t agree more that real world experience is a great barometer, but any one competitive on 100 tw tires runs the AR1 and unfortunately, the car community as a whole for anyone who races sees the R888R as a poser tire…

but 1 second faster is huge

I am experienced personally only in 200 tw tires for racing and I have tried a lot of different ones on my Miata as it went from stock to full retardant. The A052 is supposed to the the god tire but I hated how soft the sidewalls were… I liked the nankang CRS V1’s but didn’t go to the V2 later on because it was more track oriented. I did land on the RE71RS at the end and I wouldn’t change a thing on a Goblin.

I reread this after posting and I want to be clear, I am not trying to be a dick or belittle anyone or anything, just trying to be helpful
 
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Rttoys
“Toyo was also the most “talkative” tire of the bunch with very audible feedback (tire squeal) with an increasing pitch that makes it easy to tell when you’re approaching the limit of adhesion. This makes the R888R what I would consider the most beginner-friendly tire in the group, plus they operate well within a wider range of temps and pressures and are known to be very good in the rain by semi-slick standards.

I can completely confirm this on the r888r’s. Between the full wet autocross a few months ago, neither Toxicbill or I spun out. we had way better traction than I thought we ever would. Also at the track last week, you could easily hear the tires grinding away, knowing the limit is right there. On one recently patched area on the track was a great place to test the tires faster and faster because it gave great feedback.

i have never been unhappy with the r888r’s on street or track. I would like to test others one day, but gotta wear these out first.

quick look up on general cost

255/40-17
Nankang AR-1 $258
Maxxis RC-1 $251
Toyo R888R $242
 
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Rttoys
I don’t mind being a poser. I just didn’t realize I was being a poser by racing once a month at autocross against others with slicks and LS swaps, plus track time and my motorcycle track days and racing. Weird.
 
Robinjo
I don’t mind being a poser. I just didn’t realize I was being a poser by racing once a month at autocross against others with slicks and LS swaps, plus track time and my motorcycle track days and racing. Weird.
I sorta kinda knew in my heart you were a big 'ol poser (this post is 1000% humor btw). All that racing you do is just a facade.
 
TravMac
Sorry for the hijacking of your build log for tires Rttoys, but these conversations are always great to have. The best resource I can throw in the mix is the grassroots motorsports tire testing guide here: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/track-tire-buyers-guide/

The funny part is for EM, the only truly competitive tire is going practically full race slick of some sort (not to say folks here aren't competitive in their own regions, but still). Only because you can. XU is super interesting because of the 200tw tire limit. I've also been running R888Rs as my street and rain tire, and I do enjoy them, but this new class has me thinking for a swap to something 200tw. Otherwise, Hoosiers are hard to beat for EM.

Talking weight too, 275 Hoosiers are about the same weight as 225 R888Rs which is pretty wild. Not buying or selling for any choices in between. I'd love an unlimited testing budget too. I'm glad to see your thoughts too on size and how it's playing into your next tire choice. I think the harder tires a bit more narrow will help with heat, but even my 275 heats up well being about as soft as you can go. Will be fun to see what more you find!
 
Rttoys
No worries on the hijack. Tire and suspension are 2 overlooked things when talking performance. Everyone thinks hp is the most important, but all a the hp in the world is useless unless it gets to the ground. I come from motorcycles, tires are my #1 upgrade, then suspension. Even if the bike handles crappy, at least the tires will keep you stuck to the little bit of ground you use.

And you can get more heat in those tires, just hit the track. :D

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Rttoys
I needed a bit more cooling for the intercooler and after drinking a ton on it, I decided to move the ic rad from the front to the back, under the fuel tank, then add another. So far, no limp mode, but June-sept next year will be the real test.

I mounted them to the rear wall and used roll bar clamps to secure the other side. I connected them together with a bracket I made. I added an air **** using an old bed rail protector I had laying around. It all came out pretty good I think. The 2 fans running make it sound like a jet engine though. Haha :D
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Robinjo
Interesting, I hadn't considered there. I have a massive front mount unit just laying around. I might just see if it wants to live there. I have a dual HX setup (fans on both). One in the DF stock location and one behind the driver's seat region between the rail and fuse block. Temperatures have remained the same as with 1 unit, maybe 5 degrees F cooler.

How often were you going into reduced power? Do you have a gage to monitor IAT2's?
No fans on your setup?
Are your Laminova cores clean.
 
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Rttoys
It’s never happened on the street, only at autocross after about my 3rd or 4th run, when it’s 90° or more, happens quick when it’s 100° outside. Horrible conditions, to say the least. BUT It’s somewhat my fault, or actually, I made it worse. Once I added a smaller pulley, bigger injectors and hot tune, is when it started. It didn’t happen often, but I knew I would need an upgrade, so I planned on moving the HE to the rear, plus making it bigger and more efficient, but I wasn’t sure how I was going to do it. i would have liked to keep it up front to add weight to the front wheels, but there’s just not enough room there. I even tried some heater cores in front of the main rad, but I couldn’t get the hood back on.

Everyone has their “look”. My look is clean and hidden. I have put a lot of effort into hiding things and keeping everything looking as simple as possible. Doing this takes time, especially if I don’t want to sacrifice performance, so there was a lot of trial and error. I started this journey a bit over a year ago, probably 2 years ago, I lose track of time. In preparation (here’s the I made it worse part) I got a splitter from talon without the HE cutout and sold mine with the cutout. That completely cut my airflow. Whoops, but fine and dandy if I’m moving the HE, but life happens and it didn’t get moved, so I kind of had to deal with the “limp mode”. Yes I could have removed the splitter for autocross, but what fun is that? :D

it really didn’t all come full circle until I installed my lift. With the goblin up in the air, it was easy to see there was just enough room to get the HE under the fuel tank and still be above the bottom of the frame, for protection. The rest just kind of fell into place.

Yes there’s fans on the top side of the HE’s, you can see them in the side pics. I use spal fans. They are very strong and durable.

and yes, the laminova cores are clean, well, I cleaned them a while back and they were actually pretty clean to begin with. I’ll suspect the additional rad and cleaner air location will work for what I need. If not, back to the drawing board.

pile of experimental rads
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