V1 LSJ-T Feedback on Build

[ncgoblin]

I am starting the tuning process with ZZP and brought the Goblin for a short ride this morning around the neighborhood. I noticed a new noise from the rear its kind of hard to hear in the video but noticable in person like a whine not sure if this is normal. I re-tightened all couplings, a few loose bolts on header, removed drive belt, and intake. I have checked turbo oil inlet by removing fuel relay and its pumping plenty of oil. Turbo spinns freely no noise by hand. I am trying to pinpoint this noise or if it is a concern. If you listen on power off its obvious.

To add I also replaced the clutch and noticed the noise has increased since my drive today but this sounds more like a bearing noise. I checked alternator, tensioner, turbo, cooler with stethascope and could not hear the noise.

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[devianteng]

The way the sound tapers off after turning the car off makes me think it’s vacuum related. BOV vac leak?

On second look, I don’t see a vacuum line on the fitting on top of the BOV. Shouldn’t there be one there?

 

[Tinkles]

On second look, I don’t see a vacuum line on the fitting on top of the BOV. Shouldn’t there be one there?

That's the waste gate and yes it does need a vacuum/boost source for proper operation.


The only thing I think that would still be moving that long after turning off the engine would be the turbocharger. I would think that anything under vacuum would equalize quicker. 1st idea is verify that you didn't miss removing a cap that the manufacture used to prevent debris from getting into the oil feed or drain. 2nd thought is to get a can of flammable brake cleaner and spray anything that could remotely be a vacuum leak.

 

[ncgoblin]

That's the waste gate and yes it does need a vacuum/boost source for proper operation.


The only thing I think that would still be moving that long after turning off the engine would be the turbocharger. I would think that anything under vacuum would equalize quicker. 1st idea is verify that you didn't miss removing a cap that the manufacture used to prevent debris from getting into the oil feed or drain. 2nd thought is to get a can of flammable brake cleaner and spray anything that could remotely be a vacuum leak.

I figured out the issue. After capping all intake inlets and idling the engine same issue results. I then removed the intake and noticed oil in the bottom. After identifying the LSJ has an internal PCV valve inside the intake I realized my mistake. I swapped over the PCV valve from the LSJ-Supercharged intake to the Saab Turbo Intake and now the engine idles great.

 

[ncgoblin]

Hey all,

I have started the configuration for the Cortex Electronic Boost Controller and initially while tuning with ZZP I have set the duty cycle at 20% to bring boost from 10psi (sprint rate) to 15psi logged in HP Tuners.

With this controller I can build boost by RPM, Gear, Speed. My understanding is RPM is ideal for builds that produce a decent amount of torque. Have any of you setup a boost controller with a build around 400whp and what have you found is a sweet spot?