Fozda
Goblin Guru
Correct, I'll be cutting those off where they extend past the base.
Aftermarket solid shifter?
- Thread starter TheNuker
- Start date
Ross
Goblin Guru
So the shift cable will directly attach to the new shifter? No reversers needed?
Fozda
Goblin Guru
The shifter gets mounted in the opposite direction than it's intended to mount so the cable holders end up pointing back. I'll be hooking it to the reversers just like the stock shifter.
Fozda
Goblin Guru
Correct, I'm talking about the cable mounts built into the billet shifter unit. They hang off the base to the rear by a few inches and it's not utilized since the cables in the car are supported by the tunnel cap so I'm going to cut it shorter.
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
I like where your going with this.
It looks like you could also gain a little rearward movement here if they're not slide all the way back already.
It looks like you could also gain a little rearward movement here if they're not slide all the way back already.
Fozda
Goblin Guru
Yeah, you can get a quarter to a half inch but the shifter sits about 2.5" or so further forward than the stock shifter. A new base plate would he fantastic! I wish I had those capabilities!
Peregrinus
Well-Known Member
If someone could do it affordably it'd be nice, I have a feeling blocks to replace the spacers to just move the shifter back as-is will be the best bet, can probably be done for $20-40 plus cost of materials I bet. Compared to miling a baseplate which would likely cost more than the entire shifter Sadly. I do have access to a full axis cnc through a friend, but like I said I was told cost would be significant in comparison to just using adapter blocks. After someone has a pattern made to size I can email it to him and ask if he could get us a price for a few plates made. Maybe as a group buy it wouldn't be as significant of a bill.
Fozda
Goblin Guru
This is what I have so far. I was able to move it back about an inch and a half before the baseplate ran into the seats but the spacers also allowed me to offset it so that I could tuck the risers in between the seats and then move them back another inch of so. Now I just need to pull it all apart, smooth out the edges of the spacers, give them some paint or powder, and put it all back together so that I can do a final adjustment of the rods.
SACTX
Well-Known Member
Those are the attachment holes and those are the holes that I am moving back between the seats a little bit.
It’s a very simple machine run. All of the cavities in the back and things like that are not needed. It just needs a cut out. The base that comes with it is about seven eights of an inch thick. I think three-quarter is more than enough. One half-inch thick aluminum might be fine.
There is a very good machine shop right across the parking lot from my shop that I’m going to talk to you next week. The owner is a very cool guy and has done some small custom stuff for us in the past for the price of the material which is normally his scrap.
Also, wouldn’t it be great if we happened to know somebody who did custom high-end machining for NASA and fabricated kit cars and things like that.
It’s a very simple machine run. All of the cavities in the back and things like that are not needed. It just needs a cut out. The base that comes with it is about seven eights of an inch thick. I think three-quarter is more than enough. One half-inch thick aluminum might be fine.
There is a very good machine shop right across the parking lot from my shop that I’m going to talk to you next week. The owner is a very cool guy and has done some small custom stuff for us in the past for the price of the material which is normally his scrap.
Also, wouldn’t it be great if we happened to know somebody who did custom high-end machining for NASA and fabricated kit cars and things like that.
SACTX
Well-Known Member
One thing I was looking at was the balls on the ends. Do they attach to the stock connectors? Mine is still together so I couldn’t tell for sure.
Peregrinus
Well-Known Member
i'd be in on one if we get a nicely made one aswell. ordered the shifter today so i can start playing around with it after the near year aswell.
Fozda
Goblin Guru
This is what I came up with for connectors. I couldn't seem to get the stock connectors to work well in stock form. Instead of a ball I just bolted the side motion connector straight to the lever. The balls on the other end of the rods have more than enough articulation with this setup.
OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
I'm in on a base when the details get ironed out. There would probably be enough interest for a group buy.
Thanks guys for putting in the leg work!
Thanks guys for putting in the leg work!
Peregrinus
Well-Known Member
This looks really good, but maybe give it a little more length in the smaller adjustment holes? Just for people with different seat choices. Try to make it as universal as possible for all use cases.
I have 2x 18.5" kirkeys which sit really close together personally on my car so I have no idea how this will fit until it comes.
SACTX
Well-Known Member
The attachment holes are 2 1/16 of an inch center to center. I believe that the extension that sticks out to the back is about 3 1/4 inches wide. About as narrow as I wanted to make it. I did give it twice the adjustment as the original piece had. If you put the holes all the way towards the right “back”, it would fit like the stock shifter by moving it a little over 2 inches back. Anything forward of that would of course be forward of the stock location.